Thanks for the information Ron...

Went out this morning with this information and did manage to find the other connector and ended up with the following results:

Position I - WHT (BATT) to WHT/BLK (ACC) = OL.
Position II - WHT (BATT) to WHT/BLK (ACC) = Beep
Position III - WHT (BATT) to WHT/BLK (ACC) = OL.
Release fr/Position III - WHT (BATT) to WHT/BLK (ACC) = Beep


Position I - WHT (BATT) to BLK/YEL (IG1) = OL.
Position II - WHT (BATT) to BLK/YEL (IG1) = OL.
Position III - WHT (BATT) to BLK/YEL (IG1) = Beep
Release fr/Position III - WHT (BATT) to BLK/YEL (IG1) = OL. *
*With a slight clockwise turn, I do get the Beep in Position II


Position I - WHT (BATT) to YEL (IG2) = OL.
Position II - WHT (BATT) to YEL (IG2) = OL.
Position III - WHT (BATT) to YEL (IG2) = OL.
Release fr/Position III - WHT (BATT) to YEL (IG2) = OL. *
*With a slight clockwise turn, I STILL get just the OL. in Position II

Should I check any further or is this enough to confirm a bad ignition switch?

I'm guessing by these results that it is definitely the Ignition Switch that is causing my issues. I've heard that the weight of a set of multiple keys hanging from a key ring sharing the ignition key can cause this. Is there any proof to this?

Anybody know why Honda recalled a lot of these ignition switches for later models and not these for the same problems?


Please advise,

Steve

 

One more thing I had noticed that I thought was worth bringing up. When I pulled the connector for the Battery/Starter, I noticed the 2 small wires plugged directly into it. I haven't traced them back to their origin yet, but I'm guessing they go to a radio that the previous owner had put in. There are no spade terminals, it looks like they are just shoved in the slots. Everytime I would hit a bump in the road, my radio would quit, then I hit another bump it would come back on. I'm wondering if this is the culprit there and if this wiring job could have lead to the demise of the original alternator and the one I put in there in early April that only lasted about 10 weeks. Any comments on this would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks,

Steve

 

Yes your switch is worn out. They're not extremely durable. Most people with a Civic of that age have had to replace it. I don't think the weight of the key ring would make much difference.

It has nothing to do with the alternator. Cheap rebuilt alternators often don't last. Sure they have a lifetime guarantee, but is it worth the hassle? It's like a guy who keeps trying to pay you with a bad check then offering to give you another one just like it.

You should remove those wires and rewire the radio properly. Wires that are scabbed on like that are a safety hazard because they aren't protected by a fuse. If they were to short out at the radio end it can set the car on fire.

 

Thanks. I went ahead and ordered an ignition switch this morning.

Will do on the radio wiring. Do you know of any websites that provide helpful info on the radio wiring?

 

Could somebody point me in the right direction to details on how to correct that wiring on the stereo? I know it is a Kenwood KDC-MP232 model and even found the installation book on-line, but it doesn't go into much detail on exactly how and where to run the power wires.

BTW: My ignition switch is on the way here, s/b here in time for a Saturday project. I'm hoping to learn enough to correct the stereo at the same time.



Thanks,

Steve

 

Disconnect the battery (standard practice before any wiring job of course), take the radio out and see what you have. A harness adapter should always be used to install radios, then you'd just unplug stock radio, plug in adapter wired to new radio, done. But I suspect that the previous installer goon cut the car wires, so what's done is done.

The stock power wires from the car are white with blue stripe = always on, connect to yellow radio wire, and yellow = switched by the key; connect to red radio wire. The white with blue wire has a fuse under the hood ("BACK UP") and the yellow wire has a fuse under the dash. If the radio doesn't work after you rewire it it's probably because one or both of those fuses are blown.

 

I received the ignition switch and harness assy today and plan on putting it in tomorrow. I've been reading through information from different places on the web where it mentions something about the SRS Airbags having to be plugged in to some sort of connector. Does anyone have any additional information on exactly what that is about. I've watched a few videos on this, but none of them mention anything about the SRS Airbags being involved in the replacement process.


Thanks,

Steve

 

Disconnecting the battery and waiting several minutes before starting work renders the airbag system relatively safe. For almost absolute safety, disconnect battery wait several minutes-- then working from the side take the larger cover off of the side of the wheel. Inside are two yellow plugs plugged together and a red safety plug clipped to the inside of the cover. Unplug the airbag yellow plugs and plug it into the red plug. It is now almost impossible for the airbag to inflate by accident.

You don't have to mess with the airbag during the switch replacement process. In any case, don't ever get real close in front of the bag. You should be working from the bottom and side of the column.

 

Thanks and will do.

 

One last question and I'll dive in this afternoon...LOL

I was reading up in a Honda Civic manual that I found on-line on how to replace this ignition switch in the 94 Civic and didn't see any mention of having to remove those 2 headless bolts and removing the clamp. Although I've seen it done in a lot of on-line videos. Any one know if this is a necessary step for this particular model?


Thanks,

Steve