CAR SOUNDS LIKE IT IS OUT OF GAS. HAS PLENTY. CRANK BUT NO SPARK - SO NO START. REPLACED THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP AND IGNITION MODULE AND PURCHASED ROTOR. WHEN PURCHASING THE ROTOR IT COMES WITH A "BOLT-LIKE" PART THAT IS TO BE PLACED IN THE CENTER OF ROTOR. I AM UNABLE TO INSTALL THE NEW ROTOR BECAUSE IT SEEMS THAT THE "BOLT-LIKE" OBJECT HAS BEEN WELDED ONTO THE DISTRIBUTOR. IS THIS A COMMON THING? DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS ON HOW TO REMOVE THE OBJECT?

 

Are you sure the rotor does not screw on, as in the entire rotor rotates while tightening. Also since you are replacing things consider replacing spark plugs.

 

If the problem persists after replacing the ignition, you should check the main relay also. It's located under the dash, just above the hood latch lever. If the soldered connections look cracked, re-solder or buy a new relay. New relays are about $60.

 

unless you stripped the screw head, just take a phillips (or regular, cant remember which one it is) and turn the screw all the way out.
may have to turn the engine to get the screw on top.

-----You have also started another thread-----

so, i dont know where you are in your operation ???

 

as mentioned by kinosh:

http://techauto.tripod.com/mainrelay.htm

try that if the rotor does not solve the problem

 

was able to remove the obstructing part. Installed new roto - still doesn't start. Thanks for all the responses.

 

if no spark,,,,,,, test the coil,,,,,,, also rotor is turning while you crank the engine correct ?? if not t-belt is gone ,,
also you installed the rotor the right way ?? not 180 degree off i hope

 

I had a similar problem with our 95 Civic, tried everything but the obvious - always check the compression and if possible, have a leakdown test done on the cylinders. The engine would just turn over and not start, this was after it started to idle rough a few days before conking out... I changed the plugs, checked distributor, spark wires, etc. and unfortunately left the compression test to last... well, the 1.5 has 175k on it and was running good until the prior couple of weeks in August, but I finally found that number one cylinder had no compression. This pointed to a possible leaking head gasket, cracked cylinder wall, or valve problems. I pulled the engine out expecting the worst and found that it was indeed a bad exhaust valve - there was about a quarter inch square chunk of the valve missing or burnt off... so, I am going to change the exhaust valves and also change the piston rings to help boost the compression back up. It does appear that the exhaust valves receive the most wear and tear on the engine, so I would probably suggest that a lot of the higher mileage engine problems (turns over but does not start) could have something to do with the valves... My suggestion to others with this problem would probably be to have the compression test and leakdown test completed prior to changing any other ignition parts. Always check the obvious first though - fuel pump and spark. In the pic, the damaged valve is on the lower right:



[IMG]local://upfiles/13208/5C3384475F6D406490BAC6864FA6D922.jpg[/IMG]

 

valve guide oil seals would be another part to change.
16 total for the engine.

 

thanks Fred! yes, I did order the new valve guides along with 8 new exhaust valves ($15 each for the valves and about $4 each for the guides), but they should make a big change... while I have the motor in pieces, I am also changing the rings out. I am also going to pull the tranny and check the clutch - another possible change... so far, the cost will be around $280 for parts, but I think that the work will be well worth it... plus it gives a good chance to check any obvious internal wear problems... thanks for your continued support!
Allan