I just posted a request in the WTB section looking for an Idle Air Control Valve for my 95 DX stock D15B7. A shop checked my code and told me that this is what it is. A new one is kind of pricey at the $125 - $200 dollar range depending on where you go. Does anyone have any experience "repairing" or "rebuilding" one? The engine idles just fine most of the time. Some times it kind of lopes instead of idling smoothly, but not often. Maybe it will get worse, who knows. Driving down the road is not a problem. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

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What was the code and how does the shop know that the IAC is actually bad? The IAC is suppose to change b/c thats how it works. The IAC will open up a little and when the RPM gets to the high the computer will close it a little then with it goes too low the computer will open it some and so on. However, the idle shouldn't be like 2k.

 

check ebay...i've seen a couple on there before.

 

I think the shop said the code was 14 blinks on the check engine light. We talked about so many things I don't remember exactly. The car is idling kind of sporatic. It fluctuates about 200 rpm up and down continuosly when sitting at idle. Runs great driving down the road. I did find one on eBay for about $20 and am waiting for a reply from the seller to see exactly what model it came off of. If I buy it it I'll repost to tell if it fixed my problem.
Thanks.

 

i've done one successfully on a nissan pick-up - 95 model.

take it off and spray it full of carb cleaner and let it sit overnight. next morning dump the cleaner out and spray it with WD-40

it is possible also that the ecu is bad. if yours is the same as the 88, there will be 2 wires connected to it, and both should be hot wires. so check for voltage at each wire and ground (but only if this is the same set-up as the 88). i could not ever get voltage at one of the wires, and that is with trying the ac and the lights (which the ecu should compensate for when they are tuned on (which it did not in my case)).

actually yours sounds like a problem that i once had - and it was the vacuum hoses. they deteriate and it is not possible to tell just by sight. bad vacuum hoses cause the erratic idle that you describe, and replacing all the vacuum hoses only cost about 3 or 4 dollars. the large ones will probably be OK, (i did not replace them).

hope this helps

 

just hit up a junkyard dude

 

I took off the IAC and cleaned it real good with carb cleaner and WD40. The little screen was completely clogged with black soot. Then I reset my codes by pulling the back-up fuse and disconnecting the battery. It's weird, it has been idling fine since I cleaned it, but the check engine light came back on immediately. Could my ECU be going bad? I also have a code for a bad O2 sensor. I went step-by-step though the electrical voltage checks according to Haynes and the O2 is doing what it is supposed to do. Gas milage is the same as usual, about 35 to 37 mpg.

I did look at a couple junk yards. I'm kind of "out in the sticks" in south west Georgia and the junk yards I've checked so far don't have a IAC. I'm wondering now if I really need one.

Thanks.

 

my next bet would be try ebay

 

if u cleaned it then its probably fine. your check engine light is probably from your o2 sensor. i wouldnt worry too much about the IAC, a rough idle isnt that hard to deal with.