97 civic distributor
spark is blue.. firing order should be correct according to those images.. fuel pump primed well. yes CEL has been on prior to anywork being done. It was running very rough after heat up and throwing cyl 2 misfire. only that 1 code is being put out. (car ran fine cold)
Spark should be bright white, not deep blue or orange. This suggests the coil is bad. Here's how to test:

When the no-start problem is fixed, then compression test the cylinders. You also need to figure out the cyl 2 misfire problem.

When the no-start problem is fixed, then compression test the cylinders. You also need to figure out the cyl 2 misfire problem.
Remove all plugs, except #1.
Turn crankshaft by a hand tool in the direction of operation.
Feel the compression building up.
Remove plug.
Place a long screw driver and continue to turn while making sure the screw driver is not binding.
As you turn the crankshaft, screw driver would go up then would come down.
Find the crankshaft position where screw driver is at highest position, TDC.
Blue spark is weaker than white spark, but is shall be enough to have some kind of combustion that you would hear as you crank.
That's my theory and sticking to it. (*~*)
Weak blue spark is generally insufficient to make the engine run.
I had replaced my entire distributor on my 97 civic.. and I realize that I need to set the ignition timing after doing this, but the car won't start what so ever. All of my plugs are throwing spark, so the distributor is working.. but I just don't understand why it won't start? Anyone have a clue?
Even with blue sparks, if they are timed correctly with proper fuel-air mixture and compression, I think you will have kind of "Combustion".
If you need to bring #1 cylinder to TDC, ,,
Remove all plugs, except #1.
Turn crankshaft by a hand tool in the direction of operation.
Feel the compression building up.
Remove plug.
Place a long screw driver and continue to turn while making sure the screw driver is not binding.
As you turn the crankshaft, screw driver would go up then would come down.
Find the crankshaft position where screw driver is at highest position, TDC.
Blue spark is weaker than white spark, but is shall be enough to have some kind of combustion that you would hear as you crank.
That's my theory and sticking to it. (*~*)
Remove all plugs, except #1.
Turn crankshaft by a hand tool in the direction of operation.
Feel the compression building up.
Remove plug.
Place a long screw driver and continue to turn while making sure the screw driver is not binding.
As you turn the crankshaft, screw driver would go up then would come down.
Find the crankshaft position where screw driver is at highest position, TDC.
Blue spark is weaker than white spark, but is shall be enough to have some kind of combustion that you would hear as you crank.
That's my theory and sticking to it. (*~*)
Your bit of information seems to be the key.. I removed the distributor cap and quickly turned the ignition key and the rotor turned to face cyl #1. Trying to start like that made it instantly wanna kick over.
I would love to ensure tdc but i am not certain on those steps you listed above.
How do I manually turn the crank shaft? Is it on the right side facing the engine? near the timing belt?
Where do i put my finger to feel the compression build up?
Am i supposed to turn crankshaft with no plugs in? or only cyl 1 plug in?
You should do a compression test with a gauge. For whatever reason, one bad cylinder seems to make a Civic engine very hard to start. Two bad and it's certain not to start.
During a compression test be sure to UNPLUG the power wires to the distributor (2 pin plug). Firing into an open circuit is hard on the coil.
Also take the upper plastic timing belt cover off and check the cam timing marks.
During a compression test be sure to UNPLUG the power wires to the distributor (2 pin plug). Firing into an open circuit is hard on the coil.
Also take the upper plastic timing belt cover off and check the cam timing marks.
With a new coil pack installed I now have white spark.(changed nothing though)
Your bit of information seems to be the key.. I removed the distributor cap and quickly turned the ignition key and the rotor turned to face cyl #1. Trying to start like that made it instantly wanna kick over.
I would love to ensure tdc but i am not certain on those steps you listed above.
How do I manually turn the crank shaft? Is it on the right side facing the engine? near the timing belt?
Where do i put my finger to feel the compression build up?
Am i supposed to turn crankshaft with no plugs in? or only cyl 1 plug in?
Your bit of information seems to be the key.. I removed the distributor cap and quickly turned the ignition key and the rotor turned to face cyl #1. Trying to start like that made it instantly wanna kick over.
I would love to ensure tdc but i am not certain on those steps you listed above.
How do I manually turn the crank shaft? Is it on the right side facing the engine? near the timing belt?
Where do i put my finger to feel the compression build up?
Am i supposed to turn crankshaft with no plugs in? or only cyl 1 plug in?
1) #1 cylinder is the one closest to the cam gear. So it will be on the far left side of engine.
2) I don't think you have long enough finger to plug the spark plug hole. With the spark plug in place on #1 cylinder, you gain access to the crankshaft pulley. You may need to remove plastic cover/splash guard after removing left front wheel.
3) You should be able to see a hex on the center of pulley. It could be 19mm or something. Have the right size socket on it and turn it in the direction of normal/operating rotation. Before you make two full turn on pulley, you should feel resistance and more than likely you will not be able to turn due to compression building within the #1 cylinder.
4) Remove the plug on #1 cylinder now. Other plugs should have been removed before (3) above. Insert long screw driver in the #1 plug hole and continue to turn the pulley in the same direction as before while you are feeling the movement of #1 piston with the screw driver. Make sure at any moment, that the screw driver will not bind with any thing in any way.
5) TDC on #1 cylinder on compression stroke is obtained when you feel the screw driver is going down as you continue to turn the pulley. You may feel dead spot/zone at the very top, like you turn the pulley but the screw driver does not move at all. You need to move the pulley back and forth and obtain the center of that dead spot. You want to stop at that center point as you turn the pulley in the direction of rotation. On a Civic you may not need to be that precise.
6) There should be a timing mark(s) on distributor to align before installing on to engine. Make sure those are lined up,,,,.
7) Or you just have to make sure the rotor is facing #1 tower when you have TDC on #1 cylinder on compression.
8) Does this make sense to you??? I hope it does.....\(^~^)/
1) #1 cylinder is the one closest to the cam gear. So it will be on the far left side of engine.
2) I don't think you have long enough finger to plug the spark plug hole. With the spark plug in place on #1 cylinder, you gain access to the crankshaft pulley. You may need to remove plastic cover/splash guard after removing left front wheel.
3) You should be able to see a hex on the center of pulley. It could be 19mm or something. Have the right size socket on it and turn it in the direction of normal/operating rotation. Before you make two full turn on pulley, you should feel resistance and more than likely you will not be able to turn due to compression building within the #1 cylinder.
4) Remove the plug on #1 cylinder now. Other plugs should have been removed before (3) above. Insert long screw driver in the #1 plug hole and continue to turn the pulley in the same direction as before while you are feeling the movement of #1 piston with the screw driver. Make sure at any moment, that the screw driver will not bind with any thing in any way.
5) TDC on #1 cylinder on compression stroke is obtained when you feel the screw driver is going down as you continue to turn the pulley. You may feel dead spot/zone at the very top, like you turn the pulley but the screw driver does not move at all. You need to move the pulley back and forth and obtain the center of that dead spot. You want to stop at that center point as you turn the pulley in the direction of rotation. On a Civic you may not need to be that precise.
6) There should be a timing mark(s) on distributor to align before installing on to engine. Make sure those are lined up,,,,.
7) Or you just have to make sure the rotor is facing #1 tower when you have TDC on #1 cylinder on compression.
8) Does this make sense to you??? I hope it does.....\(^~^)/
2) I don't think you have long enough finger to plug the spark plug hole. With the spark plug in place on #1 cylinder, you gain access to the crankshaft pulley. You may need to remove plastic cover/splash guard after removing left front wheel.
3) You should be able to see a hex on the center of pulley. It could be 19mm or something. Have the right size socket on it and turn it in the direction of normal/operating rotation. Before you make two full turn on pulley, you should feel resistance and more than likely you will not be able to turn due to compression building within the #1 cylinder.
4) Remove the plug on #1 cylinder now. Other plugs should have been removed before (3) above. Insert long screw driver in the #1 plug hole and continue to turn the pulley in the same direction as before while you are feeling the movement of #1 piston with the screw driver. Make sure at any moment, that the screw driver will not bind with any thing in any way.
5) TDC on #1 cylinder on compression stroke is obtained when you feel the screw driver is going down as you continue to turn the pulley. You may feel dead spot/zone at the very top, like you turn the pulley but the screw driver does not move at all. You need to move the pulley back and forth and obtain the center of that dead spot. You want to stop at that center point as you turn the pulley in the direction of rotation. On a Civic you may not need to be that precise.
6) There should be a timing mark(s) on distributor to align before installing on to engine. Make sure those are lined up,,,,.
7) Or you just have to make sure the rotor is facing #1 tower when you have TDC on #1 cylinder on compression.
8) Does this make sense to you??? I hope it does.....\(^~^)/
Edit ---
I set the car to top dead center.. plug everything back in... and the car started for a moment... but then died.. I am wondering.. Do i need to close the circuit with a paper clip so the ecu won't adjust timing on me?
Last edited by blueflame2888; Nov 3, 2010 at 04:52 PM.
Isn't cyl 1 on the far right of the engine when you face it? It would be the opposite side of the distributor.. right?
Edit ---
I set the car to top dead center.. plug everything back in... and the car started for a moment... but then died.. I am wondering.. Do i need to close the circuit with a paper clip so the ecu won't adjust timing on me?
Edit ---
I set the car to top dead center.. plug everything back in... and the car started for a moment... but then died.. I am wondering.. Do i need to close the circuit with a paper clip so the ecu won't adjust timing on me?
It seems like you have other issues with your engine.
That paper clip thing, does not make sense to me. ('@')


