When coming to a stop my civic sometimes shuts off. To restart, I have to turn the key back into the off position and when I turn it back on it starts back up. I also have an issue when driving at higher speeds, while accelerating the rpms will drop slightly and the check engine light will flash on. The engine does not shut off, luckily, and the rpms go back up. I have also noticed a smell like burning rubber right after this happens. What is going on here?

OK this car has 170,000 miles on it and an automatic trans.

I have searched the site and its seems like I have a couple of problems.

Please help!
Jenn

 

Stalling out instead of idling is usually because of a dirty IACV. When it stalls out, do the oil and battery lights on the dash come on? (they should). And can you restart by shifting to neutral and turning the key forward to start (maybe pressing on the gas pedal lightly), or do you have to turn it off and back on?

The other problem (engine shakes / slows down and CEL flashes when you press on the gas hard) sounds like misfiring due to weak sparks. Start with the basic "tune up" parts, the spark wires, spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor. These parts are just replaced pre-emptively when they are old and/or there is misfiring rather than trying to test them.

 

The car is not stalling or idling poorly. The car totally turns off and I must put the vehicle in park and turn the key to the off position before it will start back up again. Which makes me think it is an ignition system problem, perhaps?

I have new spark plugs and wires, that was my mechanics first response to the problem with the rpms dropping on the highway. It doesn't happen while the transmission is shifting, but when driving normally (over 35 mph).

If anyone could please help, I need some more info before I have my mechanic start fixing things through trial and error.

Thanks so much.

 

What's the difference between stalling engine and complete shut down?

Do you lose electric when it happens?

 

That's why I asked if the oil and battery lights come on. And what happens if you shift to neutral and try to restart without turning the key off. It just cranks and won't start?

The problem with a problem like this is that the car has to be tested when it is not working. If it refuses to act up, the best mechanic in the world is reduced to just guessing what the problem might be.

 

Yes the oil, battery, and check engine light all go on when the car shuts off (meaning the engine and electric). Sorry if "shut off" is the incorrect term, I thought stalling was when just the engine goes. It just cranks when I try to start it in drive (which I now realize is normal, right?). I have to turn the key to the off position first and then I have only restarted in park. This has only happened 3 times so far, so I'm not sure if it can start in neutral. Also, this has only happened when braking, before I actually come to a stop.

Thanks for your help.

Yes I am a newbie to having engine issues, this is the first in the 12 years I have had my civic.

 

The starter is supposed to be locked out with the shifter set to drive. It should only crank in park or neutral. That's not going to cause it to stall out though.

 

ah.. so start, drive fine, no stalling, but would shut off if in traffic or stop.. etc..

If it's not your IACV, then it check your MAP sensor and/or Temp sensor, any faults to these things will send signal to your computer to shutdown thus shutoff your car.

Easiest way is to hook up a scanner and check the live data while driving.

 

Ok, I am going to test the basic tune-up parts to start (distributor cap, rotor etc). Just wondering, what is the normal idle rpm for 98 civic auto? I'm going to keep an eye on it to see if there are any fluctuations.

With the IACV, should I clean it out?

Unfortunately I don't have access to a scanner, and I am trying to keep costs to a minimum.

 

Ok so I have replaced the distributor cap and rotor, spark plugs and wires.

It has stalled since then and only when breaking hard. The rpm's drop below 500 and the engine cuts out. It takes about 10 minutes until the car will start again. If I stop slowly and make sure the rpms stay above 600 or so, it will not stall. The car does not stall out at any other time, like when sitting in traffic. This only seems to happen when my gas tank is below half full. I am also still having the rpms drop occasionally when driving above 55mph, however this does not cause the car to stall.

I want to clean my IACV (with some help), but I am having trouble finding step by step instructions for an Automatic Trans. Does anyone have a link to some photos? I have located the IACV below the throttle body.

Thanks for any help or suggestions.