While driving home on parkway car died. Pulled over and won't start. Car was pretty low on oil and running rough. I previously (about 2 years ago) changed the injectors with reman from ebay. That cleared the check engine light and allowed me to pass insp. This was checked out by computer stating misfires in whatever cylinders. Checked for spark with none present, initially thought it was timing belt. TB looked good but not sure if it jumped. Not sure if it is in time so hessitant about just changing distributor because there could be internal damage??? Is there a way to check that my valves or rods aren't screwed without taking head off? There seems to be 3 marks and just to the right one seperate mark. The timing looks to be on the one mark on the right.
Thanks for any help!!!

 

If the cam turns at all, the spark plugs should fire. (of course it may not start if out of time). Take the oil cap off and watch if the rocker arms move when cranking.

Blown coils are a common cause of sudden death on the road with no sparks. Also check that the rotor screw didn't fall out.

 

Yeah, sounds like an ignition coil to me. $50 dollar part.

All you have to do is remove the distributor cap, couple screws, couple wires, out with the old coil, in with the new.

 

I've same problem with mine. It sometimes starts and sometimes it's totally dead. I thought it was the Clifford 600 alarm causing it since it is 12 years old so I had it removed today and car is still not starting (turning but struggling). New battery and spark plugs put in last week.

 

Update: I bought a new distributor, coil included internally, still not working and was able to bring the part back. When I checked the timing belt it all looked ok. This was done by removing the top TB cover and rotating the crank. All teeth looked good however after I got the distributor I still had no spark. I need to take the crank pully off to inspect the lower half for some gearing issues, teeth whatever because when turning the crank it doesnt rotate all the parts ex. the rotor doesnt move at all. How do I pull that crank pully off?

 

The pulley at the top turns then? That is attached to the camshaft, which goes across to the distributor. A problem at the bottom would mean the belt and top pulley don't move at all when the crankshaft turns.

So check that the top pulley is still secure on the camshaft, and that with the distributor removed, you see the other end of the camshaft turn when turning the crankshaft by hand. You could also take the valve cover off and observe the camshaft turning making all the rockers go up and down.

 

OK here's the scoop. The pully that attaches to the camshaft seems to be loose. There is a bolt that when I questioned a mechanic at a honda dealer said should be torqued to 26 ft lbs. This bolt upon insp was loose. Tightened as tight as possible and had vlave cover off and top timing cover off and turned crank with a wrench. The top pully is just spinning no cam turning. It does appear that it is sheared off internally. Does that mean I need a new camshaft??? Probably a new engine??

 

There's a pin that keys the pulley to the camshaft and sets it in time. Pin must have sheared. Remove the belt and pulley and inspect. Depending on the extent of the damage, replacing the pulley and possibly the camshaft would be in order. Likely that even a blown junk engine would still have a useable cam.