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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 12:41 PM
  #1  
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Default Air Conditioning

hello i have a 93 civic lx that is having problems with the air conditioning.. first it leaks out so i got some cans of recharge and left the hose to it to keep fluid in due to it leaking where you put it in at.. but then it didn't work at all and i replaced the 2 relays above the cooling fan that is attached to front rad suport.. so i got it working but it works for about 15 - 20 mins and it turns off and only blows cold wont kick the air compressor on at all.. but if i let it sit for 6-7 hours it will turn right on and do it all over.. any idea's or is there more relays to replace the pump was put in befor i bought it brand new looks nice and clean so i know it isn't too old.. any idea or a manual i can look at will be great.. thanks for lookin
 
Old Apr 15, 2010 | 01:01 PM
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When refrigerant has completely leaked out of the A/C system, it is likely that air and water vapor have entered the system. It is bad to have air and water vapor in the A/C system. When this happens, the leak must be repaired, the receiver/dryer must be replaced, and the A/C system must be evacuated and recharged to spec. These are the steps you missed.
 
Old Apr 15, 2010 | 01:50 PM
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Compressor failing to engage after it warms up is often because the gap between the clutch plate and the pulley is too large. It should be about 0.020 inches. This can be adjusted by taking the plate off and removing shim washers.

Measure the voltage on the compressor wire, if it has 12 volts, the relay, etc. are OK and the compressor should be tying to engage. Do not jumper the compressor to the battery with the engine running. That is likely to create a dangerous overpressure situation (because the condenser fan is not on, and the overpressure switch has been bypassed)

But first, you have to find the leak and make a proper repair. It is normal for the port to sometimes leak slowly when you take the hose off. You have to put the plastic cap on, make sure there is a good rubber gasket in the cap.
 
Old Apr 15, 2010 | 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by mk378
Compressor failing to engage after it warms up is often because the gap between the clutch plate and the pulley is too large. It should be about 0.020 inches. This can be adjusted by taking the plate off and removing shim washers.

Measure the voltage on the compressor wire, if it has 12 volts, the relay, etc. are OK and the compressor should be tying to engage. Do not jumper the compressor to the battery with the engine running. That is likely to create a dangerous overpressure situation (because the condenser fan is not on, and the overpressure switch has been bypassed)

But first, you have to find the leak and make a proper repair. It is normal for the port to sometimes leak slowly when you take the hose off. You have to put the plastic cap on, make sure there is a good rubber gasket in the cap.
first off i have dont this tons to cars i know what im doing when i recharge.. im simly askin what is happening why it kicks off untill it cools down and then it works again.. sorry if this comes out to me being an a$$.. second it costs money to take to someone i dont have.. it sux cause id rather take it to someone
 
Old Apr 15, 2010 | 05:25 PM
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When you hook up manifold gauges, what are the refrigerant pressures at the high and low sides?
 
Old Apr 15, 2010 | 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by RonJ
When you hook up manifold gauges, what are the refrigerant pressures at the high and low sides?
it's in the blue about 25 - 30 low side.. i dont have gauge for hight side
 
Old Apr 15, 2010 | 05:36 PM
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To do this job right, you must have a manifold gauge set to measure both high and low side pressures. These pressures will help to diagnose the problem. An auto parts store may offer you a free rental.
 
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