Can you clarify! Are you saying to first disconnect the battery and then the alternator or just the battery?

 

Disconnect the battery before working on the big wire on the back of the alternator. It is always live and if you short it to ground with the battery connected, the main fuse will blow.

 

Took a break for a while and bought a new alternator but have not put it in yet. Why: Because I decided to buy some 2" clamps and put around all the rubber mounts that hold up the exhaust system. The new stainless steel magnaflow muffler is heavier and kept banging against my rear bumper cut out.
After clamping them all and the exhaust system is much tighter and no more rattling back there i NOTICED that my SRS RED light stop coming on and the lights did NOT flicker for at least 2 weeks. I went down a bumpy dirt road the other day and the lights started to flicker again for a short time and then stopped! The lights rarely flicker and the SRS light rarely comes on. So now I am thinking that it may be a loose wire under the car.
What wires under the car would affect this kind of issue or is it just a coincidence that this happened?

 

The wires on the back of the engine leading to the alternator.

Realize that when your system voltage is jumping around (for whatever reason), false CEL, SRS, and ABS lights are likely.

 

Had to take a break from car for a while in order to Buy NEW alternator and some 2"metal clamps.
Since putting on my NEW stainless steel Magnaflow Muffler which is heavier than my original one. It has been banging against the rear bumper cut out at times. I decided to put clamps around the existing rubber supports to the exhaust system. This tightened up my exhaust system 100%.
After doing this my SRS light stopped coming on. And all lights stop flickering for over 2 weeks. Last week I went down a bumpy dirt road and they started flickering again for a short time and then stopped. They hardly flicker anymore and the SRS light rarely comes on. So, is there some sort of wire or connection to the exhaust system under the vehicle that affects this issue?
I don't want to change the alternator just yet but will keep it for backup.
Puzzled but feel i am getting closer to the issue at hand which can help others with this problem!

 

just shooting this out there,and im not sure if this will help,but we were talking the other day about how if your exzaust is not grounded correctly,your o2 sensors will give off the wrong readings and throw cel codes.you need to have a metal gasket between the block and exzaust manifold,so your o2 sensors opperate correctly(this helps create the ground circuit for the o2).the chat thread i was on talked of making sure your exzaust is grounded,and inlet to your o2 sensors are cleaned,scuffed to bare metal for a better contact(clean out the threads),he also said he had ground the exzaust were the chassy ground connected to the exzaust,to recreate the stock grounding point,were the bolts go in.could it be a grounding issue??

 

there is a thread about what im refurring to here on this site.if you were just rigging your exzaust up,it might make sense.