I am waiting to get a code reader and see if that can tell me anything. I am just worried about have to get the thing towed again. Not that big of a deal I know but just don't want to have the hassle. I am hoping to locate a wiring diagram and go through and check all the system grounds and make sure nothing is loose and then go from there. I'll try and keep everyone posted

 

Does anyone know if I should be able to read directly across the ELD.
By that I mean when I do a continuity check with the Fluk meter I have I can read directly from the 80A battery fuse to the 40A fuse on the other side of the ELD. From what I have gathered so far the ELD is not a fuse buta current transformer and typically I don't think you should be able to read directly across it. Any knowledge from anyone on whether or not my thinking is correct.

 

So it looks like your Gauge CPU and Driver Circuits are all OK! Is there anything else electrical not working properly on your vehicle,maybe something not related could be causing electrical noise which upsets CPUs and disturbs communications etc. For example, do you have Daytime Running Lights? If so,do they seem to be working properly? etc etc

 

Everything else seems to function like normal. My bro-in-law and I took the car out on the highway and everything ran fine except the temperature gauge. Once we got back to the house he looked at the sensor unplugged it and plugged it back in and it worked like normal. I am just thinking do I have an ELD shorting/malfunctioning or an ECU going bad. The original problem started with the transmission feeling like it was gone. I was on the highway andthe carbasically just shut down. Took it to a transmission guy he found nothing but a battery going dead. So he repalced the battery. Tried to do a code scan at the time and he wasn't able to get anything.Since then it has been fine until the light came on the other night and it did the same thing. So we changed the alternator but that as you know didn't change the light status. I just cant figure it out.

 

I would bet on the ELD problemrather then the ECU because the ECU is the controller running a closed loop. The ECU would know that the loop is malfunctioning because of no signal from the ELD in response to a change in the output to the Altenator. As a result the ECU would probably default to max Alternator output and flag the problem.Also, the ELD unit may be repairable, its function is to amplify the voltage drop across the strip of metal where the alternator current flows. The ELD most likely has a OP AMP and a few components. Also, do not overlook a bad 3 wire connectorat the ELD Unit.

 

I have been considering jus going to the parts store or Honda dealer and use my brother's employee discount pick up a new one and replace it. I'll let you know what the status is when it is all said and done.

 

Do not open the package it comes in until you have exhausted the other possibilities that may arise in the disassembly process. You may end up wanting to return it unused/unopened after youknow the cost of the beast.

 

Already spoke to the dealer and the cost of the ELD is $26.00 bucks so it's not that big of deal to buy and put it in. I will remove the first one and check the harness and make sure there is no damage there.

 

I have replaced the ELD and I still have the battery light on. I am able to reset the light but as soon as I turn the car on there goes the light. I am going to try and locate a complete honda wiring diagram and trace through the whole circuit so if anyone has a location on one please let me know. I am about at my last option which would be take to the dealer and most likely get taken to the cleaners.

 

Any have any ideas other than what I have already tried?