Brake Pads & Rotors Cost?
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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 10
Brake Pads & Rotors Cost?
I have a 2007 Honda Civic EX Sedan with just under 100,000 miles on it.
I had the transmission fluid changed on it a few weeks back and they said I would start hearing squeaking from my brakes that they were pretty worn. I did not have the money to replace them at that time.
Sure enough I am hearing some major squeeking and some grinding. I am figuring that my brakes need to be replaced. I called a local dealer, however it was a chevy dealer I moved to a very rural place without Honda dealers. They quoted me a little under $700.00 for new pads and rotors. I am okay paying what is necessary, but without having much to compare to this seems to me to be rather high. Is this fairly standard? Like I mentioned I moved to a pretty rural area and my options for places to have it serviced are somewhat sparse.
I am fairly handy, but it scares me to try to do this myself, is this something worth trying to do myself?
What do you think this should be costing me? Any thoughts anyone?
I had the transmission fluid changed on it a few weeks back and they said I would start hearing squeaking from my brakes that they were pretty worn. I did not have the money to replace them at that time.
Sure enough I am hearing some major squeeking and some grinding. I am figuring that my brakes need to be replaced. I called a local dealer, however it was a chevy dealer I moved to a very rural place without Honda dealers. They quoted me a little under $700.00 for new pads and rotors. I am okay paying what is necessary, but without having much to compare to this seems to me to be rather high. Is this fairly standard? Like I mentioned I moved to a pretty rural area and my options for places to have it serviced are somewhat sparse.
I am fairly handy, but it scares me to try to do this myself, is this something worth trying to do myself?
What do you think this should be costing me? Any thoughts anyone?
HCF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 279
Yes, the **** probing the dealer does on brake jobs was one of the reasons I started doing car work myself. $700 sounds about right.
I can do ALL 4 rotors/pads and relube the sliders the correct way for about $200 on a saturday afternoon.
Look around first, youtube has some decent tutorials on the civic, then come back and ask specific questions.
Its a relatively easy job, but it should be obvious that you need to be careful and pay attention to the details.
I can do ALL 4 rotors/pads and relube the sliders the correct way for about $200 on a saturday afternoon.
Look around first, youtube has some decent tutorials on the civic, then come back and ask specific questions.
Its a relatively easy job, but it should be obvious that you need to be careful and pay attention to the details.
HCF Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 45
Hey Matt!
A general rule of thumb that you should abide by when anticipating dealership parts and labour charges is this: take whatever reasonable estimate that you have formulated in your head and double it. Then tack on about %10 more to the total price of the job and you've accurately guessed the dealership's fees
This is what I would do if I were in your shoes- shop around online for a new set of brake pads and rotors (actually, do you really have to replace the rotors? In most cases the rotors simply have to be resurfaced during brake jobs). There are bargains to be had! For instance, I believe that hondapartsnow.com sells the OEM brake pad set for $41.67. Buy your parts from one of these independent OEM Honda parts sites and take your Honda to a reputable garage that specializes in Honda repairs. The entire job shouldn't cost you more then $400 (parts included).
Or better yet, why not perform the job yourself? I've performed countless brake jobs on various Honda models and I can attest from personal experience that it's an easy job to perform. Here's the procedure that I follow for the front brake pads:
1) Remove some brake fluid from the master cylinder.
2) Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3) Remove the front wheel.
4) Remove the flange bolt and pivot the caliper up out of the way.
5) Remove the pad shims and brake pads.
6) Remove the pad retainers.
To install:
1) Install the pad retainers.
2) Using a C-clamp or piston compression tool, press in the piston so the caliper will fit over the brake pads.
3) Apply a thin coat of M-77 assembly paste part number o8798-9010 to the brake pad sides of the pad shims and the back of the brake pads, wipe excess paste off the shim.
4) Install the brake pads and shims.
5) Pivot the caliper down tighten the flange bolt to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm).
6) Install the front wheel and lower the vehicle.
7) Refill the master cylinder with brake fluid to the correct level.
If you need assistance with the rotor replacement then just let me know
A general rule of thumb that you should abide by when anticipating dealership parts and labour charges is this: take whatever reasonable estimate that you have formulated in your head and double it. Then tack on about %10 more to the total price of the job and you've accurately guessed the dealership's fees
This is what I would do if I were in your shoes- shop around online for a new set of brake pads and rotors (actually, do you really have to replace the rotors? In most cases the rotors simply have to be resurfaced during brake jobs). There are bargains to be had! For instance, I believe that hondapartsnow.com sells the OEM brake pad set for $41.67. Buy your parts from one of these independent OEM Honda parts sites and take your Honda to a reputable garage that specializes in Honda repairs. The entire job shouldn't cost you more then $400 (parts included).
Or better yet, why not perform the job yourself? I've performed countless brake jobs on various Honda models and I can attest from personal experience that it's an easy job to perform. Here's the procedure that I follow for the front brake pads:
1) Remove some brake fluid from the master cylinder.
2) Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3) Remove the front wheel.
4) Remove the flange bolt and pivot the caliper up out of the way.
5) Remove the pad shims and brake pads.
6) Remove the pad retainers.
To install:
1) Install the pad retainers.
2) Using a C-clamp or piston compression tool, press in the piston so the caliper will fit over the brake pads.
3) Apply a thin coat of M-77 assembly paste part number o8798-9010 to the brake pad sides of the pad shims and the back of the brake pads, wipe excess paste off the shim.
4) Install the brake pads and shims.
5) Pivot the caliper down tighten the flange bolt to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm).
6) Install the front wheel and lower the vehicle.
7) Refill the master cylinder with brake fluid to the correct level.
If you need assistance with the rotor replacement then just let me know
Thread Starter
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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 10
Thanks techtalk. That is really helpfull. After doing some investigating I am deciding I am going to try to tackle this myself. I am moderately mechanical and this seems realitively easy. I ordered a Haynes guide for my vehicle and the replacement pads. My only real concern at this point is the rotors.
When I talked to the dealer they quoted some federal standard about the amount of surface needed on the rotor and assured me mine would be below that and they would need to be replaced. They said it wasn't cost effective to resurface or whatever it is that is done and I am better off purchasing new rotors from them and having them done at the same time. Seems kinda crazy to me.
Like I said I purchased pads already but I didn't do the OEM pads. I live in a really rural area and didn't want to wait too long for the shipping because the noise is getting worse and I have time this weekend. There is a NAPA not too far from me so I had them order me the following.
Rear Pads
Front Pads
Think these will suffice?
My other question is in regards to the Rotors. Do you think it is worth while for me to get new rotors while I am doing this? Is there a measurable thickness or whatever the standard is that I can look for on my rotor to help determine if I should replace them or not?
Thanks again for the guidance. I am feeling fairly confident about this and I think I will come out around $400-$500 ahead of the dealers price.
Matt
When I talked to the dealer they quoted some federal standard about the amount of surface needed on the rotor and assured me mine would be below that and they would need to be replaced. They said it wasn't cost effective to resurface or whatever it is that is done and I am better off purchasing new rotors from them and having them done at the same time. Seems kinda crazy to me.
Like I said I purchased pads already but I didn't do the OEM pads. I live in a really rural area and didn't want to wait too long for the shipping because the noise is getting worse and I have time this weekend. There is a NAPA not too far from me so I had them order me the following.
Rear Pads
Front Pads
Think these will suffice?
My other question is in regards to the Rotors. Do you think it is worth while for me to get new rotors while I am doing this? Is there a measurable thickness or whatever the standard is that I can look for on my rotor to help determine if I should replace them or not?
Thanks again for the guidance. I am feeling fairly confident about this and I think I will come out around $400-$500 ahead of the dealers price.
Matt
HCF Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 160
from what i hear on the internet it is pretty easy to replace these. however i would be sure to have a backup ride or car in case you hit some sort of snag and need to dedicate more time to it.
be sure to factor in the cost of equipment if you don't have it already. (jack stands, floor jack, etc...) but you only need to buy those once.
be sure to factor in the cost of equipment if you don't have it already. (jack stands, floor jack, etc...) but you only need to buy those once.
HCF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 279
Some words of advice. The steps above give a very general outline, but left out quite a few details.
1. I get OEM pads and aftermarket rotors. Dont bother with resurfacing rotors, just replace them with the cheap ones from autozone. There really isn't any savings having them resurfaced. If you go with new rotors you should clean them first with brake cleaner as they come with oil on it to prevent rusting during transit. Whatever you do, dont put new pads with the old unresurfaced rotors...it's just asking for brake shuddering to develop.
2. You need to learn how to relube your caliper slide pins. There's no use in doing a brake job if you dont relube them because if they seize (and they often do if neglected), your pads and rotors are toast. I get the honda caliper rebuild kit and it comes with new boots and the proper lube (its a special lube without petroleum otherwise the boots will swell).
3. Removing the caliper bracket bolts (holds the bracket to the knuckle) can be a pain if you dont have the right tools. I suggest investing in a breaker bar and a small torch to loosen these bolts.
4. Learn how to properly bed in your pads. There is a specific procedure. This prevents brake shuddering from developing.
5. You should probably bleed out at least some of the crappy brake fluid in the lines. Very easy to do.
6. Definitely should clean up the caliper bracket before installing new pads.
1. I get OEM pads and aftermarket rotors. Dont bother with resurfacing rotors, just replace them with the cheap ones from autozone. There really isn't any savings having them resurfaced. If you go with new rotors you should clean them first with brake cleaner as they come with oil on it to prevent rusting during transit. Whatever you do, dont put new pads with the old unresurfaced rotors...it's just asking for brake shuddering to develop.
2. You need to learn how to relube your caliper slide pins. There's no use in doing a brake job if you dont relube them because if they seize (and they often do if neglected), your pads and rotors are toast. I get the honda caliper rebuild kit and it comes with new boots and the proper lube (its a special lube without petroleum otherwise the boots will swell).
3. Removing the caliper bracket bolts (holds the bracket to the knuckle) can be a pain if you dont have the right tools. I suggest investing in a breaker bar and a small torch to loosen these bolts.
4. Learn how to properly bed in your pads. There is a specific procedure. This prevents brake shuddering from developing.
5. You should probably bleed out at least some of the crappy brake fluid in the lines. Very easy to do.
6. Definitely should clean up the caliper bracket before installing new pads.
Last edited by boiler1; Sep 2, 2011 at 02:06 PM.
Thread Starter
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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 10
Okay so a bit of a issue. I tackled this yesterday and was doing okay. I was able to get the caliper up brake pads out no problem. I am looking at my rotor and it looked terrible. I decided I should probably change my rotors. I went and picked up a new set of rotors for my front brakes. on the rotor there are two holes that have the screws in them that hold them in and the other two empty threaded holes.
I follow the instructions in the haynes manual to get off the screws but they strip out really quickly. I end up drilling them out. Kinda sucks but it worked. My rotor was incredibly rusted. I used the two bolts from the caliper bracket to try to push off the rotor. I saw this was a way to do it on line. As I am doing that the face of the rotor cracks in two and brakes off. Now there is no front to the rotor. At first I am thinking this is a good thing now I just slide off the rotor and move forward. I try to slide off the main portion of the rotor and it will not come off. It is either misshaped or something, but it is about a 1/16" too snug to get off.
Anyone have any suggestions?
Short of my rotor issues everything has gone fairly smooth so far.
Matt
I follow the instructions in the haynes manual to get off the screws but they strip out really quickly. I end up drilling them out. Kinda sucks but it worked. My rotor was incredibly rusted. I used the two bolts from the caliper bracket to try to push off the rotor. I saw this was a way to do it on line. As I am doing that the face of the rotor cracks in two and brakes off. Now there is no front to the rotor. At first I am thinking this is a good thing now I just slide off the rotor and move forward. I try to slide off the main portion of the rotor and it will not come off. It is either misshaped or something, but it is about a 1/16" too snug to get off.
Anyone have any suggestions?
Short of my rotor issues everything has gone fairly smooth so far.
Matt
HCF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 279
Ha, yea, that's another one of the "details" not mentioned above. I've never had one break in two like that, but if I were you I'd heat it up with a torch and take a sledge to it. They're usually stuck to the hub pretty good.
Maybe a stupid question, but you did remove the entire caliper bracket first right?
Maybe a stupid question, but you did remove the entire caliper bracket first right?