I been having this problem for a month now where my front brakes seize up. I anti-seized the side pins, and brake pad brackets. I changed the brake pads. Everything looks perfectly fine. It tends to happen at random, ussually after a couple miles of driving. And the only way to fix it temporarily is too pump the brakes until the brake pads release from the rotor. Does this sound like a proportioning valve issue? both sides lock up at the same time. Thanks for any help on this.

 

i'm not sure by what you mean by seize...

but have you tried a brake fluid flush?

 

Sorry, I should have explained it better. Over time the brakes will start to apply pressure until I can barely drive my vehicle. It ussually happens after a couple miles of driving I never did a brake line flush recently, but I did do one a couple years back? Do you think I should do another one?

 

The master cylinder may not be returning to the fully retracted position when the brake pedal is not pressed. That will allow pressure to build up in the lines and cause the brakes to drag.

It can be adjusted on most models by removing the master cylinder from the power booster and adjusting the pin on the booster that presses the piston in the cylinder. Before removing, pump the brakes with the engine off to release vacuum in the booster. Also you probably won't need to disconnect the lines from the master cylinder.

Sometimes the same result can be achieved by adjusting the brake pedal switch or the stop nut on the pedal side (inside the car) of the brake booster. You want the brake pedal to come up higher when it is not pressed.

If adjusting doesn't help, could be a bad master cylinder or booster.

 

Thank you mk378, you are very Informative. I will try doing both of those. It sounds like all the questions i've been asking has been leading to the proportioning valve, or the master brake cylinder.

 

My problem is fixed. I'm going to drive around tonight and make sure. But the problem may have been as simple as a check valve inside the house connecting the brake booster to the throttle body. Does that make sense? because my car seems to be running fine with the house disconnected and left hanging on the throttle body. I'm having weird idling. but it seems as my brakes aren't auto braking themselves.

 

You have simply disconnected the energy input to the power brake feature. There's no power brakes now, it's going to be considerably harder to stop. There could be a problem with the booster where it is overpowering. Really would be best to replace it.

You need to block off the hose to make it idle properly. The easiest way to do that would be to put the check valve in backwards. (That will really mess with the next guy's head.)