So here's a little update, I checked my TPS voltage today. At idle it was .37 Volts so I adjusted it up to the proper .50, full throttle was correctly set at 4.5 Volts. Adjusted the throttle cable and took it for a drive, still running wayy to rich but the problem with the idle seems to be gone. It now idles slightly higher than it should, about 1200 or so when warm with the idle adjustment screw turned all the way in.

Even though its still idling around 10.5:1, when i drive it and switch into neutral its a smooth transition and the car no longer wants to stall. Just need to fix the rich condition now.
I read common things to cause rich conditions are map sensor, o2 sensor, stuck open injectors, or the ECT sensor. Also is it possible the IACV or FITV can cause rich conditions if they have problems?

I have no CEL on, what would be the next thing to try? I'm going to take a look at my timing and listen to see if my injectors are opening/closing tomorrow. Maybe I just need to get my tune tweaked?


Any help will be appreciated, thanks

 

What makes you believe the engine is running rich?

Does the CEL work?

How old are the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor? Is the ignition timing set to spec?

What's the fuel pressure?

Is the engine having trouble reaching normal operating temp?

 

I know it's running rich because of my wideband. When I first cold start the engine, it fast idles properly around stoich and after about 10-15 seconds it drops down to about 10.5:1
Driving it air/fuels are around 12:1 but drop even more rich. I'm not driving the car around like this either I know it's not good for it.
Plug wires are couple month old NGK's, sparkplugs are about two weeks old NGK BKR7E gapped to about .03
Cap and rotor were replaced when I had my machine shop work done, can't really remember when this was maybe just over a year ago not too many kilometers on that stuff either.
The ignition was retarded when I had the tuning done, recently had the belt/tensioner changed by my mechanic and the car was still running fine after that. I hadn't checked to see if he put the timing back to how it was, but the car ran fine after so I didn't think of it.
Car seems to warm up fine also, I don't have a fuel pressure gauge. The CEL does work i've tested it by unplugging sensors.

This was also suggested to me: "The fact that its idling higher than it should, and you are map based, leads me to believe the tune needs tweaking. perhaps something wierd happened to the map? Maybe it was tuned with a leak or something, and when you fixed it, the tune got all screwed up."

Let me know if you need more information, thanks RonJ

 

Start with the ignition timing.

Also check whether the resistance of the ECT sensor is at spec.

High fuel pressure, a faulty FPR, or stuck open fuel injector are other possibilities.

Also consider that the wide-band O2 sensor is malfunctioning and giving false readings to you and the ECU.

Any performance problems?

For the high idle, are you sure the throttle cable isn't too tight?

 

The car feels a bit sluggish, I'm fairly sure the wideband is reading correctly. Its an AEM wideband came with a Bosche o2 sensor, this was installed this summer only a few months ago.

I dowloaded the factory service manual, but its not letting me search the pdf for keywords so i'm trying to find another manual. Any chance you would know what the spec is for the ECT? I believe it needs to have resistance measured for cold/hot, but not 100% sure.

I don't think the throttle cable is too tight, i've adjusted it incorrectly before and you can usually tell its sticking. I'll make sure it has enough slack tomorrow but im pretty sure its fine.

Tomorrow I want to check the ECT, and also the fuel pressure. I think AutoValue loans out gauges for that, too high fuel pressure would indicate a faulty FPR, correct? I also plan on listening to my injectors tomorrow to make sure they are clicking correctly.

I've never set the timing before, and i'm not sure how many degrees my tuner had it retarded back to. I'm thinking it would be best for me to check the other things you mentioned, and if the cars still running rich I'll get it tuned again and have him adjust my timing.

 

A faulty ECT sensor could explain both the high idle and the running rich. With the engine fully warmed up, the unplugged ECT sensor should read 200-400 Ohms across the two sensor terminals.

 

K awesome your the man! Ill update you tomorrow. Thank you

 

Fuel pressure is critical. Not having the compensation vacuum hose attached to the fuel pressure regulator will increase pressure and richen the mixture. IAT sensor also affects the mixture as part of the conversion from air pressure / volume to mass. (since the MAP system doesn't measure mass air flow directly.)

Of course since the ECU has been reprogrammed it could just need to be tuned again.

With engine warmed up and idling, unplug the IACV wires and see if idle slows down. It should go to less than 500 rpm. If it does, something about the ECU is telling it to idle high (improper tuning, or bad readings from ECT). If it does not slow down, something beyond the control of the ECU is letting too much air into the intake-- a leak, stuck IACV or FITV, throttle plate not closing fully, etc.

 

I tried changing the ECT sensor with a new one, this made no difference. I checked all my vacuum lines and found that the one coming out the bottom of the PCV valve under the intake manifold had slid out of the black box. I pushed it back in and was hoping this would solve the problem, but still nothing.
Check out what my idle is doing, it's like it wants to set around 1000rpm but then something is making it jump up. here's a video of me revving it, and showing the rich condition.
http://s1004.photobucket.com/albums/...t=IMG_0104.mp4
I think I can hear air flowing when I put my ear around the fuel pressure regulator, i ran my hand all down the vacuum line and around the 4th injector, can't feel air coming out from anywhere. Is it possible to clean the FPR? I could also grab one from a junkyard and install it with new vacuum line? Or would it be best to install a fuel pressure gauge and that will tell me if the FPR is faulty?
Unplugging the IACV made a little drop in idle, hardly noticeable just seemed to make the car run worse.

 

It is an air leak then. Start by taking the intake pipe off of the throttle body and check that the throttle plate is fully closed and none of the bypass holes in the side of the throttle body are sucking air.

Realize that air leaks IN to the manifold and engine, thus you won't feel it leaking out. A traditional test is to spray carb cleaner on suspected leak points, it will make the engine stumble when it gets sucked in.