Dash Cluster and Climate Control lights takes a minute to turn ON after headlights!
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From: Houston, Texas
For reference, see post #2 in this thread. Remove the dimmer switch, insert an exposed end of a wire into the red wire terminal of the dimmer connector, attach the other exposed end of the same wire to the metallic frame under the dash, and then turn the headlights switch ON one click. Do the dash lights now turn ON full bright?
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 9,453
From: Houston, Texas
I described the procedure in the previous post. Let me know if it is still unclear.
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If the tail lights aren't on, there is no hope of the dash lights working. You should check for voltage from terminal "D" of the switch to ground with:
*everything plugged in and
*the switch on the first or second click,
*but during the time the lights are not on.
If you have battery voltage, the switch is OK and there's likely a problem in the fuse box or somewhere else in the wiring under the dash. If you have no voltage, the switch could be bad or the plug has a bad connection to the switch terminal.
Edit: Use terminal D, not E. E should have power all the time from the battery.
*everything plugged in and
*the switch on the first or second click,
*but during the time the lights are not on.
If you have battery voltage, the switch is OK and there's likely a problem in the fuse box or somewhere else in the wiring under the dash. If you have no voltage, the switch could be bad or the plug has a bad connection to the switch terminal.
Edit: Use terminal D, not E. E should have power all the time from the battery.
Recognized HCF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 9,453
From: Houston, Texas
If the tail lights aren't on, there is no hope of the dash lights working. You should check for voltage from terminal "D" of the switch to ground with:
*everything plugged in and
*the switch on the first or second click,
*but during the time the lights are not on.
If you have battery voltage, the switch is OK and there's likely a problem in the fuse box or somewhere else in the wiring under the dash. If you have no voltage, the switch could be bad or the plug has a bad connection to the switch terminal.
Edit: Use terminal D, not E. E should have power all the time from the battery.
*everything plugged in and
*the switch on the first or second click,
*but during the time the lights are not on.
If you have battery voltage, the switch is OK and there's likely a problem in the fuse box or somewhere else in the wiring under the dash. If you have no voltage, the switch could be bad or the plug has a bad connection to the switch terminal.
Edit: Use terminal D, not E. E should have power all the time from the battery.
Last edited by RonJ; Oct 31, 2008 at 12:25 PM.
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 10,023
I think it is one of those big plastic connectors you can see the metal pin sockets through the back and touch them with a probe. Or push your meter probe through the wire insulation and touch the copper inside. Since it's inside the car you don't have to worry about water getting into the hole.
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Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 6
I removed the Stereo, I have a red and black wire with a cap and a white and blue with a cap in with the stereo wireing area. both seem to be just an end not attached to anything. It is not the factory stereo. The Stereo works fine.
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 9,453
From: Houston, Texas
The Red/Blk wire powers the radio light and is part of the fuse 19 circuit. As long as it is capped off, then there should be no problem.