Hi! I'm glad this place is here. I've got a 91 DX with about 170k on it. What a great reliable car this has been. I put a water pump and timing belt in it when I got it about a year ago. One owner car well cared for. I stalled it (at the Wendy's Drive Thru), my foot slipped off the clutch. It refused to start up again. After a few minutes it started up and I didn't have a problem after that. Now it refused to start once again, and finally started after me sitting there worrying for a few minutes. When this happens, it cranks with lots of power but won't start. Then it starts. I know it has a self-diagnostic onboard which I will try to pursue according to my Haynes manual. I cleaned the plugs and distributor cap, which had a lot of scale on the posts. I'm wondering, could the fuel pump be about to quit? Or could the ignitor be about to quit? Leaky injector? I want to start troubleshooting but it is tough since this is intermittent. I could wait till it happens again and check for fuel pressure and or spark, but that risks being stranded again. Thanks for any help on this!!! Dan NJ

 

what does the self diagnostic say....how many flashes?

 

i had a problem with mine before....it felt like a fuel cut and the computer was telling me fuel..i changed the filter and was about to change the pump...oh yea put a new dist. cap on too....all it needed was to have the injector plugs cleanded a little....i just unpluged the electrical connectors and spray a little wd40 on both ends plug em back in...reset the computer and havnt had a problem since....i have inculeded a pic to show you exactly what im talking about...give it a try, its free and takes about 2 min and also could be your problem...

[IMG]local://upfiles/406/95E36A364ADF4B128A78AB4982C2061D.jpg[/IMG]

 

Hello,
The Computer was flashing- 16 flashes which according to my Haynes manual is 'fuel injector'. It said the resistance should be 6-10 ohms. The bottom aux injector was 6 ohms. The top main one was 1 ohm. I sprayed them clean with Brakleen ( because I've seen Gumout make O-rings swell) and gave the O-rings just a touch of WD-40. Injectors looked clean visually. Went back in well.
It fired up and is running as usual.Still scared to drive it though.
Question is, what sets that code? A lack of continuity through the injector? Does the 1 ohm resistance, below specs, indicate the injector is about to fail?
Well, I'm going to price injectors anyway....
Thanks for the help!
Dan

 

mine was showing the same thing...i would try what im telling you because sounds like what happend to me and that fixed it right up....you may have the same problem i did and id try what i said before you spend all kinds of money youkno.. i spent like 40 bucks before i did that and that was unecsary spendigns so id give it a try....

 

Thanks Ohbiskits.
I need to pay attention to my car, which doesn't owe me anything. I wouldn't mind pricing new injectors, tho. Do you know a supplier? If I have to go a couple hundred bucks I can do that- I will end up paying that for a tow if this is an injector failing.
I need to adjust the valves and do the fuel filter anyway. There's 170,000 on the car, highway commuter miles from the original owner. I should probably do the cap, rotor, wires and plugs. Believe me, I'm a tightwad until the fear of being stranded sinks in. I usually sandblast my plugs if they're not too worn hahahahaha And of course, the Civic is so reliable I couldn't imagine it acting up, and thus have neglected the maintenance somewhat.
Dan

 

yeah, at 170k do a full tune up and even replace the timing belt and water pump if you dont know how long its been since it had a new one. a quick check for the injectors, get a long screwdriver (or a stethoscope if you have one) and place the tip on the injector body while its running. then put your ear to the handle end and see if you can hear it clicking. if so, its working. you might wait till it starts giving you trouble. and resist the temptation to ge tthose stupid bosch +4 plugs. everyone i know whos used them has eventually had to do some headwork due to extra heat in the head.

 

Thanks. I got it at 166k and did a timing belt and water pump then. I couldn't figure out where the noise was coming from; until I took out the water pump; wobbly bearing but the seal was still holding.
I just adjusted the valves yesterday and put in new fuel ($20 ouch) and air filters. It could probably use wires. Valve train looks pretty good. Only a few valves were slightly loose. Still gotta get to trust it again hahahaha. It's running good and computer reset. I'm hoping it was the connection and not something internal in the injector! Thanks for the help again. This is a great car. 35mpg took it to Syracuse from NJ this summer.

 

Check my post on 1/2/05..Mine was intermittent too..I suspected the fuel pump but it turned out to be the relay...I left the back seat out until it did it and I CAUGHT it..

 

HAHAHA It's great when you "catch" a bug! Another place to look if it happens again. The injector is clicking away. Car running great now. Fuel pump relay might explain why it refused to start after shut it off. This is great to know about.