Front Pad/Rotor Install
#1
Front Pad/Rotor Install
I've looked through the forum for some instructions on how to install new rotors/pads for the front in my 1994 honda civic dx sedan.
I have never done brake work on my car nor any other major work. My experience is limited to installing an intake, cat-back exhaust, and changing the oil/coolant. I am trying to make sure that I understand exactly what needs done before I go about doing it... and I am not 100 percent clear on what I've read.
From what I've read...
1.)Take wheel off/have wheel turned so I can get the caliper bolts easily
2.)Remove 2 screws that hold the rotor on... #3 phillips for a socket wrench? Any suggestions for removing these screws as they look pretty rusted.
3.)Take two bolts off that holds the caliper in place -- now do I use a C clamp before I take the caliper off so that I depress the piston back into the caliper?
I read somewhere I need to drain 1/2 the brake fluid in the master cylinder before depressing the piston back into the caliper? Is this right?
How exactly should I be removing/installing the pads?
4.) At this point, with the caliper off I should be able to pry the rotor away?
5.) Reverse for new parts -- Do I need new screws for putting the new rotor on? Torque Specs?
Any help would be greatly appriciated,
Jim
I have never done brake work on my car nor any other major work. My experience is limited to installing an intake, cat-back exhaust, and changing the oil/coolant. I am trying to make sure that I understand exactly what needs done before I go about doing it... and I am not 100 percent clear on what I've read.
From what I've read...
1.)Take wheel off/have wheel turned so I can get the caliper bolts easily
2.)Remove 2 screws that hold the rotor on... #3 phillips for a socket wrench? Any suggestions for removing these screws as they look pretty rusted.
3.)Take two bolts off that holds the caliper in place -- now do I use a C clamp before I take the caliper off so that I depress the piston back into the caliper?
I read somewhere I need to drain 1/2 the brake fluid in the master cylinder before depressing the piston back into the caliper? Is this right?
How exactly should I be removing/installing the pads?
4.) At this point, with the caliper off I should be able to pry the rotor away?
5.) Reverse for new parts -- Do I need new screws for putting the new rotor on? Torque Specs?
Any help would be greatly appriciated,
Jim
#2
RE: Front Pad/Rotor Install
You got most of it correct. It is not necissary to remove the top bold for the caliper. You can remove the lower bolt and flip the caliper up. Then push the caliper towards the engine and it will come out. Get a hanger and hang the caliper somwhere so the brake hose doesn't break. You do not need to reinstall the two screws that are on the rotor. To remove them, i always use an impact screwdriver. I guess a #3 phillips with a ratchet could work, but i've never done it before so i can't say either way. I do know that the impact screwdriver and a hammer work every time. If the master cylinder is filled with fluid (like to the max spot) then you will need to remove some of the fluid before you push the caliper in. Then use a c-clamp to push the caliper all the way in. Note that ONLY FRONT CALIPERS SHOULD BE PUSHED IN WITH A C-CLAMP. Many times the rear calipers have to be turned instead of pushed due to the presence of an emergency brake. If the rotor does not come off, you will see that there are 4 holes on the rotor. 2 are for the screws you removed. The other two are for bolts. You can put a bolt in each hole and turn the bolts. As you turn the bolts it will push the rotor away from the hub and you can take it off. Installation is reverse of removal. Remember where the clips go on the mounting bracket b/c there is a different one for the top and bottom. Use some greese (you can find it at the auto parts store, it will say brake greese or something like that) on the edge of the pads where it will slide on the mounting bracket for squeak free operation. There may also be shims that go behind the pads that you have to stick on, but the pads i used had the shims riveted in. Any other questions just ask.
Torque Specs
Top Bolt: 25 Ft lbs
Bottom Bolt: 20 Ft lbs
Caliper Bracket Bolt: 80 Ft lbs
Torque Specs
Top Bolt: 25 Ft lbs
Bottom Bolt: 20 Ft lbs
Caliper Bracket Bolt: 80 Ft lbs
#3
RE: Front Pad/Rotor Install
use wd40 (or some sort of penetrating spray) on any rusty bolts - don't get it near pads or discs you are planning on using though!
before you strip anything off, you need to retract the piston into the caliper and there are 2 methods of doing this -
1) use a clamp on the rubber brake hose, as close to the caliper as possible. slacken off the bleed nipple. get a pry-bar or a big screwdriver and wedge it in at the outer pad to open up the caliper.
2) just get a pry-bar or a big screwdriver and wedge it in at the outer pad to open up the caliper.
method 1 is kinder to your master cylinder (you won't destroy the seals contained within) and you will have to bleed the system when you are finished, although if you perform method 2 very slowly, it won't cause any harm
with the caliper retracted, you can now remove the caliper, pads and discs. the discs will not come off without removing the caliper bracket - this is held on with 2 bolts at the back.
before you put the new pads and discs on, clean any brake-dust/dirt from the caliper and bracket with a wire brush and some brake cleaner. apply a small amount of copper grease to any surfaces the pads come into contact with the bracket.
clean the new discs with a little brake cleaner and give them a light rub of sand paper before you put them on.
reassemble and check everything is tight - don't forget to pump the brake pedal when you're finished (i ran into a wall before, having forgotten this!)
hope this helps
before you strip anything off, you need to retract the piston into the caliper and there are 2 methods of doing this -
1) use a clamp on the rubber brake hose, as close to the caliper as possible. slacken off the bleed nipple. get a pry-bar or a big screwdriver and wedge it in at the outer pad to open up the caliper.
2) just get a pry-bar or a big screwdriver and wedge it in at the outer pad to open up the caliper.
method 1 is kinder to your master cylinder (you won't destroy the seals contained within) and you will have to bleed the system when you are finished, although if you perform method 2 very slowly, it won't cause any harm
with the caliper retracted, you can now remove the caliper, pads and discs. the discs will not come off without removing the caliper bracket - this is held on with 2 bolts at the back.
before you put the new pads and discs on, clean any brake-dust/dirt from the caliper and bracket with a wire brush and some brake cleaner. apply a small amount of copper grease to any surfaces the pads come into contact with the bracket.
clean the new discs with a little brake cleaner and give them a light rub of sand paper before you put them on.
reassemble and check everything is tight - don't forget to pump the brake pedal when you're finished (i ran into a wall before, having forgotten this!)
hope this helps
#4
RE: Front Pad/Rotor Install
First off, thank you very much for your responses...
1.) I am still a bit unclear of what I am pushing in with the C-Clamp and what I am attaching the C-Clamp to... and do I use the C-Clamp to spread the whole caliper out or is it just for the piston. I am guessing if it is the whole caliper, the pads should probably stay in when spreading of the caliper.
2.) I am still a bit confused as to what bolts I need to remove to get the caliper out of the way...
3.) On the new rotor, I do not need to reinstall the 2 screws that I removed on the old one?
1.) I am still a bit unclear of what I am pushing in with the C-Clamp and what I am attaching the C-Clamp to... and do I use the C-Clamp to spread the whole caliper out or is it just for the piston. I am guessing if it is the whole caliper, the pads should probably stay in when spreading of the caliper.
2.) I am still a bit confused as to what bolts I need to remove to get the caliper out of the way...
3.) On the new rotor, I do not need to reinstall the 2 screws that I removed on the old one?
#5
RE: Front Pad/Rotor Install
ORIGINAL: dooka4u4
1.) I am still a bit unclear of what I am pushing in with the C-Clamp and what I am attaching the C-Clamp to... and do I use the C-Clamp to spread the whole caliper out or is it just for the piston. I am guessing if it is the whole caliper, the pads should probably stay in when spreading of the caliper.
1.) I am still a bit unclear of what I am pushing in with the C-Clamp and what I am attaching the C-Clamp to... and do I use the C-Clamp to spread the whole caliper out or is it just for the piston. I am guessing if it is the whole caliper, the pads should probably stay in when spreading of the caliper.
Like Agent said, remember to use something to hang the caliper up with so it doesn't drop and break the little line. I use zip ties to connect it to the spring.
That's all I've got. Good luck!
ORIGINAL: dooka4u4
2.) I am still a bit confused as to what bolts I need to remove to get the caliper out of the way...
2.) I am still a bit confused as to what bolts I need to remove to get the caliper out of the way...
It's really not that tough, I promise. I just did my rear brakes a couple weeks back with almost no clue of what to do, and it turned out all right. Just go for it!
#6
RE: Front Pad/Rotor Install
A C-clamp has two parts, one part is stationary part and the other is the part that moves in when you turn it. Put the part that moves inside the piston. And put the metal part on the top on the outside of the caliper. When you turn the C-clamp the moving part will move in and push the caliper in as well.
#8
RE: Front Pad/Rotor Install
ORIGINAL: land9
use wd40 (or some sort of penetrating spray) on any rusty bolts - don't get it near pads or discs you are planning on using though!
before you strip anything off, you need to retract the piston into the caliper and there are 2 methods of doing this -
1) use a clamp on the rubber brake hose, as close to the caliper as possible. slacken off the bleed nipple. get a pry-bar or a big screwdriver and wedge it in at the outer pad to open up the caliper.
2) just get a pry-bar or a big screwdriver and wedge it in at the outer pad to open up the caliper.
use wd40 (or some sort of penetrating spray) on any rusty bolts - don't get it near pads or discs you are planning on using though!
before you strip anything off, you need to retract the piston into the caliper and there are 2 methods of doing this -
1) use a clamp on the rubber brake hose, as close to the caliper as possible. slacken off the bleed nipple. get a pry-bar or a big screwdriver and wedge it in at the outer pad to open up the caliper.
2) just get a pry-bar or a big screwdriver and wedge it in at the outer pad to open up the caliper.
Quick steps to bleed...
Get a friend
friend pumps pedal and tries to push it to floor (DON'T LET UP)
You at bleed nipple open it up (and expect brake fluid to squirt out) Close nipple...now friend can let up on pedal.
Repeat until only fluid and no air comes out. Check Brake fluid in master cylinder so as not to run out while bleeding/flushing
Start at furthest brake caliper from master cylinder and work around.
TEST at SLOW speeds until you are sure brakes are functioning.
#9
RE: Front Pad/Rotor Install
I was able to get the brake pads/rotors installed on the car. Everything went smoothly with disassembly but I did run into a problem when I reassembled the parts. I overtorqued the bottom bolt that holds the caliper shut on the mounting bracket. It took about 2 hours to get that sheared bolt out of the bracket. I got a new bolt from the auto store (awsome that it was open till 12 midnight) and continued to reassemble.
So far so good, brakes are nice and smooth, no more warped rotors... Thanks everyone for all of your help!
So far so good, brakes are nice and smooth, no more warped rotors... Thanks everyone for all of your help!
#10
if you can do intake and exhaust this should be a piece of cake! I have changed brakes/rotors on benz chevy ford mazda and my civic they are all the same ... easy like cutting butter, and you dont have a computer monitoring system so that makes it even easier xD