how will i know if the fpr is bad if all my hoses are hooked up right?

 

You would need to make fuel pressure measurements with the FPR connected versus disconnected.

Again, don't take action on code 45 unless it repeats and, as mk says, your primary focus should be on installing an IACV.

 

just a question, there is a code on the back of the manifold that reads P2k. is that the manifold from the y7 or y8? as you can tell, i'm new to civics

 

ok, i went to autozone and figured some stuff out. 1. i do have an iacv. it turns out that one of the previous owners had put an intake manifold and throttle body off of an auto transmission d16y8 on my manual d16y7. the reason i though that i didn't have an iacv is because on the manual tranny ex, the iacv is on the back of the manifold and on the auto tranny ex it's on the throttle body. 2. the codes i pulled at autozone were still the 14 (iacv) and 45 (running too rich) 3. the guy that works at autozone knows hondas and told me that i'm running rich because of the bad iacv.

now that all this crap is just about solved, all i have to do is get the iacv and install it, but of course neither autozone nor advance have the part so hopefully by tomorrow or saturday i will have a nice running civic dx/ex thing

 

Try to adjust your idle screw to have it running at 800 rpm when warmed up. 1k is a bit high for idle... replacing those other parts will definitely help.

 

If the 800 rpm reading comes from the dash tachometer, it's difficult to know whether the warm idle is actually out of spec. In addition, it has amazed me how well the IACV (when working properly) of 6th generation Civics will maintain the idle at spec at a variety of different idle screw settings.

 

well, i got the new iacv on the car, my check engine light has gone off and not come back on, but my civic is still idling at 1500rpm's warm. should i mess with the idle screw to calm it down or could it be something else?

 

The ECU usually needs some drive time to relearn the proper idle; however, it would not hurt to turn the idle screw a bit to reduce the warm idle to around 670 rpm without a load. A digital tachometer or scan tool is needed to make accurate idle rpm settings.

 

Warm up the engine. Turn off the A/C and all other electric stuff. Unplug the IACV wire. Turn the screw for a slower than normal idle, about 400 rpm (engine may be shaking and threating to stall, that's OK). Plug in the IACV again. ECU should establish normal idle. This procedure may cause the CEL to come on temporarily and a false IACV code to be set, just clear it.

If you cannot slow down the engine with the IACV unplugged, there is excess air leaking in somewhere.

 

problem solved!! it turns out that when i changed the oil, i knocked off a plug that had the cruise control (i think...) vacuum line sealed off. me and my dad were adjusting the idle control screw, to no avail, when he noticed the hole on the back of the manifold. i got a plug for it, and now i'm idling just fine thanks for all of your help