I replaced my ignition switch about a year ago. I went to start my car this morning and it is doing the exact same thing it was doing then. It just cranks and cranks then i can finaly get it to rev up for a sec and it dies again. Is this common.

 

Pull the hand brake up so that the BRAKE light on the dash will come on. Watch that light while you try to start. It should stay on all the time, both with the key on (II) and while cranking (III). If it goes out there's probably a problem with the switch. If it stays on the switch is OK. You can also measure for power at the black and yellow wire going to the distributor while someone turns the key to start.

Could also be a main relay issue. When you turn the key on but don't crank, watch for the CEL to come on and go out, and listen for the fuel pump.

 

The brake light stays on the cel light does go off and i can hear the fuel pump turn on

 

i pulled a fuel line i have fuel coming out i pulled the plugs i have spark and i checked all my fuses. also when i turn the key to the on (II) position the light on the ECU does not come on but when i turn it back to the on (I) position it blinks on does that mean anything.

 

any other ideas or could it be the ECU

 

Could be a lot of things. The ECU is usually pretty far down on the list because it tends to be one of the most reliable parts. So you rule everything else out first before considering it.

It's best in a case like this to forget what has been done so far and start from the top, go through the full "cranks but won't start" diagnosis. Check the three major areas of fuel, spark, and compression / timing.

Check that the ECU basically powers up by watching the CEL come on and go out by itself after 2 seconds with key on but don't crank. Observe the diagnostic LED for any trouble codes.

Confirm fuel flow by disconnecting the return hose. Check for spark at all 4 spark plug wires. Run a compression test in case there's a dead cylinder. (One dead cylinder makes a D-series very hard to start.) Take the upper timing belt cover off and confirm cam mechanical timing.

 

If i am getting spark does that not mean my ignition is ok

 

i have had two friends with this problem. did you buy the ignition new or used. instead of just letting the key snap back to the on position after it starts to rev ease it back. the reason i say this is because what happens is the contacts in the ignition switch wear out or get dirty in the spot the key normally stops if you ease it back not as far it should connect in a new spot and stay on.

 

i got it new

 

if you put that key in the run position and use a remote starter does it rev up and die?