+1 for details, and i imagien you bought the car boosted?

VTEC cams have an extra lobe (over normal cams). Check this out: https://www.hondacivicforum.com/m_77259/tm.htm

 

Ya I have a mod list, and I'm just driving it with the electronic boost controller turned off until I can tune it and everything.

1995 Honda Civic CX Hatchback TURBO

Dark/Navy Blue
164,xxx K on chassis and 97,000K on engine
LSD transmission (rare)
P06 chipped for Uberdata (JDM D15B ECM (p08)
Rage2 Tuned
Dyno #: 160 WHP/150WTQ @ 9 Psi (these #'s are WITHOUT VTEC .. low cam)
*estimated power in high cam is around 200-220whp*

Exterior
Type R front lip
5/4 Volk Rims with H rated Kumhos

Interior
Autometer Cobalt A/F Gauge
Autometer Cobalt Boost/Vaccum Gauge
JDM EG9 Cluster
JDM amber clock
JDM GSR FRONT SEATS (adjustable support for passenger)
Momo Shift **** (blue/silver)
Momo Shift boot (blue leather)
B&M short shifter

Engine
JDM D15B VTEC
TE04H Turbo *Stock Wastegate at 3 PSI*
HF Manifold
MSD 8.5MM Super Conductor Spark Plug Wires
Spark Plugs (G-Power Platinum)
2" Piping From Turbo To TB
2.5" Downpipe
Magnaflow Cat-Back Exhaust
Painted Valve Cover (Gold)
Tenzo-R Strut Tower bar (not installed)
4-Port Aftermarket Vaccum Bar
460 cc Rx7 injectors (low impedence) with resistor box
Johnny Race Car Style Front Mount Intercooler
Ceramic coated custom piping (Piping was measured and installed professionally then taken off to get powder coated)

Suspension:
Tein S-tech springs
KYB shocks
Full GSR Brake conversion Front and Rear (biggest OEM brake swap available for civics in 4x100)

 

I just thought of something, could it be possible that it does this because it was tuned with the boost on? I'm just at the stock 2 psi boost until i decide to tune my greddy profec-b spec II, Iwas told the more boost I use the more it will start leaning out over a period of time and I will need to get the car tuned. Is this right?

 

LMFAOThe throttle body is not the same thing as a carburetor

 

It is chipped with uberdata so I wouldn't want a FMU right?

 

If it is chipped then there is no reason why you would have one but I have seen stupider things happen. Do you have a pict of your engine pay?

 

lets see a pic, you have a narrowband which is as good as a lights desplay for xmas

 

i dont mean to jack the thread but funny ive been having some air/fuel problems lately. Its been doing this since i bought it in january... My car sounds like it sputters. When i pull up to a light, sounds like it wants to stall... then fluctuates? between 750 and 1G. A mechanic looked at it at work today... seen my 3rd? the 3rd cylinder from the left/2nd from right. Well that pipe on my header was a bluish color... said i was lean. Looked at all my plugs... same. Dry, looked in my book and said they were normal.

There anything else i can do to check? ive tried fuel injection cleaner too. Need help. Thanks guys!!

 

I'll get a pic up tomorrow I have to take one. But can someone tell me if what I described is normal for air/fuel ratios for a turbo'd engine? How can I find out if it is running good air/fuel if I can't trust my guage. It shows rich at idle and when I'm on the gas it's a little bit rich/stoich. When i let go of the gas it goes all the way lean, what should I do to make sure it's ok? I will get a picture of my engine tomorrow.

 

if you want an accurate reading, get a wideband o2 sensor. The narrowband seriously isnt trustworthy, dont trust it/worry about it at all, a wideband is what will really tell you how your a/f ratio is doing.