I was having problems with my '97 starting after it was warmed up but started fine when cold. I adjusted the valves not because of this reason but just because it needed it. I went out to test drive and a mile into it it totally quits. Towed it back to my house and started checking and there is no spark. There is voltage at the distributor and the ICM & coil check out OK according to multi-meter and the tester at the store. Not sure where to go from here. Can the coil/ICM test out OK and still be bad?

 

I assume that the vehicle was cold when you tested the coil and other items. Might I suggest that you place a scanner on the vehicle and see if any codes have been set.
Did you have spark after you tested the coil and items? Did the vehicle start?
Are the plug wires in good shape and are the plugs properly gapped.
There is a place where you can download the manual for your vehicle and read up on how to properly check for a no spark condition.
Now if you were working on a late model buick, I'd say the Crank Position Sensor was failing, works until it gets so hot and then just stops sending signal until it cools off.
Anyway good luck, please post how you fixed the problem when you get it fixed

 

Check that the cam rotates when you crank. If the timing belt has stripped there will be no spark.

Test the coil by jumping sparks from its output post to a grounded test wire with the cap off. Ohmmeter tests are inconclusive. If there are only weak yellow sparks, the coil is bad.

 

There is no spark after I pulled and tested, then re-installed the ICM & coil. I checked to make sure the distributor rotor is turning.

I guess a coil can be bad but not test out bad on ohm meter.

 

I tried replacing the coil and bingo, it started. I guess the lesson learned is that something can test OK on the meter but still be faulty.