no spark,help
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 9,453
From: Houston, Texas
Is the CEL ON?
Does the fuel pump prime for 2 seconds when the ignition key is turned to ON(II)?
Have you checked the important ground wire connected to the thermostat housing? Is it loose or corroded?
Have you checked whether the timing belt snapped?
Does the BLK/YEL wire of the distributor connector have 12V when the ignition key is turned to ON(II)?
Is this how you checked the coil:
Does the fuel pump prime for 2 seconds when the ignition key is turned to ON(II)?
Have you checked the important ground wire connected to the thermostat housing? Is it loose or corroded?
Have you checked whether the timing belt snapped?
Does the BLK/YEL wire of the distributor connector have 12V when the ignition key is turned to ON(II)?
Is this how you checked the coil:
Last edited by RonJ; Dec 9, 2008 at 08:56 PM.
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Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 6
thanks for the quick reply,this is the best site for Hondas so far....anyway I have no codes,I can hear main relay kicking on,havent checked for the fuel pump priming yet...good call,i will let you know tommorow,fuses looked good,coil primary resistance was.9ohms. Secondary 14,ooo ohms I am supposed to get a dist to use from a friend tommorow too..thanks for the ignition checking procedure as well...thanks guy's..let you know tommorow how it went
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 9,453
From: Houston, Texas
Regarding the coil tests, a primary resistance of 0.9 ohms is outside the specified range.
***Note: You must do the coil tests at approximately room temperature for measurements to be valid. Remove the coil from the distributor and do the resistance tests inside a warm room.
***Note: You must do the coil tests at approximately room temperature for measurements to be valid. Remove the coil from the distributor and do the resistance tests inside a warm room.
Last edited by RonJ; Dec 10, 2008 at 06:20 AM.
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Joined: Jun 2007
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Check that power is reaching the distributor both with the key on and while cranking.
Resistance tests don't prove the coil is good. Try drawing sparks from the coil terminal to a grounded test wire (with the cap off). This will also let you confirm that the rotor turns with the crank (if not, bad timing belt). You should have blue sparks that easily jump 3/4 inch. If you get little yellow sparks, the coil is bad no matter what the ohmmeter says.
Resistance tests don't prove the coil is good. Try drawing sparks from the coil terminal to a grounded test wire (with the cap off). This will also let you confirm that the rotor turns with the crank (if not, bad timing belt). You should have blue sparks that easily jump 3/4 inch. If you get little yellow sparks, the coil is bad no matter what the ohmmeter says.
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Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
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ya know,I did have to crank the engine with no cap on and coil not grounded to anything to get the screw on the rotor in the right place so I could remove it....do you think that could have blown sumthin out?
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 9,453
From: Houston, Texas
Cranking the engine with the distributor cap off or with a plug wire(s) disconnected and not grounded runs the risk of blowing the ignition coil.
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Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 6
yea the timing belts cool,power to coil on both positive and negative side ,power to ICM good, new ICM,still no spark at all...man ,im pretty good with cars too,but this ones really got me stumped..fuses all good,feul pumps priming,5v.at map sensor,the coil was a little out of spec..9-.8 ohms,,,,kept bouncin back and forth,primary positive to secondary resistance test 14.44 ohms at 68 degrees outside temp.I think i'll just replace the coil and keep fingers crossed...I'll let you know...thanks alot!