Ok so in another post I talked about the alarm possible causing a problem with my windows....well it's gotten much worse. Just to re-cap: the alarm module made this loud clicking noise which someone mentioned was the relay but it's never done that before and it's also a loud clicking so I know I would have noticed it before. When I press disarm the back window on the driver side would wind down about a quarter of the way each time. Not only that......I noticed a few days ago that it would also wind down that way when I turn off the car and today it actually did it just by ARMING the alarm. To also mention for those of you that don't know...the car was in an accident a few months back and I just got it from the body shop last Sunday (I've been getting all of these electrical problems since). Someone suggested that the alarm got damaged from the impact and caused problems with everything else but I'm not all that electrically inclined. So the MAIN thing now as listed:

Driver's side front window worked EXCELLENT
Passenger side front window's motor went dead about a year ago
Passenger side back went down fine sometimes but sometimes slowly, and would wind up slowly and I'd have to give the car a little gas while winding to get it up.
Driver's side back same as passenger side back minus having to give it gas.

Now from the driver's window controls or whatever it's called.... I can't control any of the windows anymore except the driver's door (checked the wire to the switch with a test light and the wire's fine so MAYBE it's the switch but like I said I'm not that electrically inclined).

Back passenger side goes down fine but doesn't go up at all from that switch (if I had to guess I'd say the actuator's the problem but still not sure).

I've tested the fuses and relays and they're fine themselves (Even changed power window relays with new ones to make surebut the fuses from the underdash for the windows aren't getting any current according to the test light. Ranwires direct from battery to the power window fuses and they "work" (meaning the windows get power but they still have theirproblems like before except now they getdirect power just to test them though). So I'm told there's a broken wire somewhere and rewiring the car is costly.

Also, used to be able to lock all doors just by locking the driver's side, now have to do each one individually and remote unlock doesn't work.

From my P.O.V. I would think that the alarm is the cause of all these problems but something interesting I noticed this morning. Water gets through the inner door seal of the passenger side door and actually into the door itself (I noticed because since the car was in the shop I took out all of the speakers) and while I was getting my windshield rechecked for water leaking the guy pointed out to me that it was coming from the seal. One more thing I noticed is that the guys from the body shop used some fuses in certain places over their oem rating such as battery relay says 80a but they have 100a there and security unit says 7.5a and they have 10a (in some places 20a). I put as much of the proper amperage ratings in the correct places as I could but all my problems still occur.


I'm torn.....I don't know if it's from the impact in theaccident, the neglegance of the body shop, or the fact that water got into the door which I'm thinking could have caused a major electrical short. Can someone PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE help me. This is all so frustrating!!!!

P.S. I had to even take off the window motor in the passenger's back side and stench it up with something to get to work without leaving it open. Sorry for the length, but full detail is best right?! PLEASEEEEE help me SOMEONE!!!!!!!!! Thanks!!

 

Wow, that's a lot of info so I'll do my best. I don't think all can be explained by a single problem.

1) I would recommend you start by troubleshooting the master switch in the driver door (see picture). You will need a friend with a multimeter and some instruction on how to use it. I suspect that this unit or parts of it need to be replaced. Also look for corrosion on any electrical contact points in the connectors of the master switch.

2) Remove the panel from the driver door so that you can see the wiring within. I suspect that the alarm system was mistakenly spliced into the power window wiring going from the master switch to the rear driver-side window.

3) The rear passenger window is misaligned and not able to move smoothly in the rubber window channel. In addition, the switch for this window may be faulty and need to be replaced. The fact that you must give the car gas to get this window to go up hints that you should check whether your battery charge is low or your alternator is on the way out.

4) Look at the picture in the next post and link your lock problem with possible faulty components.





[IMG]local://upfiles/25538/373AC1E95BA64E2FB7D0CCBF9C9E5538.jpg[/IMG]

 

Last picture...

[IMG]local://upfiles/25538/9269450A4E134DE99D0CAD07899C0213.jpg[/IMG]

 

Thanks alot. The wire does actually have some sort off stuff on it, it looks like corrosion in the connectors to me but I didn't actually check it, the guy did but I watched. Secondly, the battery is brand new so that would be ruled out. I'm having the guy that hooked up my alarm check it tomorrow hopefully (It's the third time I've had to reschedule seeing that he's so busy). Will update tomorrow. Thanks again.

 

Managed to get under dash fuses for the windows sorted out, apparently the guys that checked it read the panel wrong and put the 40a fuse in the wrong place. Still, same problems in terms of the windows themselves. I'm guessing best bet is to change the motors for sure and do more testing on the switches.

 

To avoid replacing parts unnecessarily (save $), test the switches before replacing the motors. If the switches are fine, you should also perform another electrical test called the master switch input test, which I am happy to post if you wish. Before replacing, the window motors can be tested by supplying them directly with 12V power.

 

That would be great if you could post it for me RonJ, thanks.

 

The master switch input test is described in this picture and the one in my next post.

[IMG]local://upfiles/25538/295E15898A9949F49CD7CD838784F664.jpg[/IMG]

 

last picture...

[IMG]local://upfiles/25538/3ED8C4A5B7A1402A9B3876BFD8ED24C3.jpg[/IMG]

 

Update: Got confirmation that the master switch is bad. Possibly both the switch and motor for the passenger side......possible switch problem on driver's back side, and not sure about passenger back side.

This morning I put a test light to the passenger's back side and I got a light from a yellow wire with a black line running through it. Not sure if anything else should have lit upon testing but anyway......I checked also the connector that the regulator (I think that's what it is) is plugged into and got no reading (it's a red with blue wire as I recall....I think the other is red with yellow). When I pressed down on the switch there's a slight sound but when I press up, nothing happened. I figured so I'd just leave it alone, so I turned off the ignition switch and put everything back together then checked again with the test light before I put the door panel back on. Now there's not even a light from the yellow and black wire as before, and nothing happens when I press down on the switch (worse than before I know). I checked all of the fuses and nothing blew (under-dash and under-hood) so I'm thinking "o s*%t". I'm puzzled right now....can someone please shed light on this mystery?!