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Problem from D16Y8 to D16Y7...I think.

Old Sep 10, 2009 | 01:43 PM
  #1  
SpyderPB6's Avatar
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Default Problem from D16Y8 to D16Y7...I think.

Hi Guys.

Long post ahead, but any input would be greatly appreciated, very much.

About 5 months ago I swapped my head out, but I ordered the wrong one and needed to get going ASAP, so I went ahead with it.

I had a D16Y8 Vtec engine, but ordered a D16Y7 head, all went well, except the Vtec unit simply got plugged into wires and dangled instead of actually bolting to the head (as there was no spot for it on the Y7).

Driving was perfect, nothing wrong at all and no check engine for 5 months or so, but now, I have one, a nasty one. It may not be related to that, but could very well be.

Now the check is on and it blinks when idleing, while idleing the engine feels rough as well, too much shaking. Driving normal RPM range, engine feels fine and there is only a solid check.

The other problem, after driving for some time, randomly, as far as I can tell the gas pedal begins to have an issue (this happens sometimes, sometimes it doesnt...very random) for the first bit of pushing the pedal down nothing happens while driving, untill I get to a certain point where the fuel connects and it jolts or kicks, but if I go below this wierd threshold, it wont do anything. Did I explain that well enough for you guys? There is simply a threshold required for the gas pedal to trigger any action, wierd, happens in all gears(I have a 5speed).

I checked codes at autozone, Random cylinder misfires detected, Multiple cylinder misfires, Cylinder 2 misfire detected. I have changed the plugs, wires, cap rotor and airfilter.

Could this be tied to the head cylinder swap? If you think so, should I take action to fully convert my engine to the D16Y7? If so what other things would I want to replace other than the ECU???? IAC????

If you don't think this is tied to the head swap, what do you think may be at fault?

Oh I checked the cylinders by eye and feel when doing the swap, everything looks pretty good, I didnt notice anything out of the ordinary.


Any input as I said, would really be great as I suck at figuring out thiese ignition type problems or whatever it may be.


Thanks for your time!
Mike.
 
Old Sep 10, 2009 | 04:04 PM
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Check the valve clearance. Mis-adjusted valves (too tight) will cause misfiring at idle. You might also try swapping the #2 fuel injector to another cylinder and see if the misfiring follows it. Run a compression test.

For the sticky gas pedal, take the intake pipe off and clean the throttle plate (especially the edges) and the inside of the throttle body. You probably have gummy black stuff there that causes the plate to stick closed.
 
Old Sep 10, 2009 | 04:33 PM
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in case you didnt know when the CEL blinks and the connector isnt jumped it means there is a misfire detected
 
Old Sep 10, 2009 | 06:42 PM
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To MK378:

Thanks for the reply. I will try all of those especially the valve clearance, perhaps I adjusted them too tight so I will check spacing. As far as sticky pedal it isn't sticking, pressing on the pedal simply causes no action, the plate cover and cable still move, but it just doesn't react at all.

Will try fuel injector switch also.

To hamorhead:

Thanks for that pointer, I had no idea a blinking check means misfire.



Thanks for the input it is quite helpfull. Any other suggestions welcomed.

Cheers,
Mike.
 
Old Sep 12, 2009 | 04:20 PM
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You know....I think the problem with the whole thing may be a damned vacuum leak. I used propane today and flushed it under the intake manifold, well wouldn't you know....the engine idles smoother and the RPMs change slightly.

Thanks for the input from the people who replyed.



Cheers,
Mike.
 
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