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Replacing original muffler - few questions

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Old Sep 21, 2009 | 08:52 AM
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Question Replacing original muffler - few questions

So basically, my original muffler fell off my 1996 Civic EX Sedan. I had used some of that epoxy-type red tape to patch a rust hole, but that only last maybe 10 months.

So, I have a few questions:
Is it a smart idea to install the new muffler myself? I figured I can use some sort of strong clamps since I don't have a welding gun.

Where should I buy the muffler? Online I see the standard appears to be a Bosal and runs $82. http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...%26+Drivetrain
My local shops carry Walker products, but charge around $130. They say the only benefit of a more expensive one is the "performance" sound.

Finally, is there any benefit to spending maybe 30 (random small number) bucks more and possibly getting a better muffler that will be better for gas mileage or anything beneficial? I ask because if Im going to install something brand new, it might be worth the little extra like it is usually for computer parts. I'm a complete mechanics novice btw, if you haven't caught that lol.

Thanks.
 
Old Sep 21, 2009 | 09:14 AM
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If you want to go cheap. You can always try a local junk yard. That way it will bolt right up. Instead of using clamps or welding. On 92-95 its 2 bolts and springs that hold the muffler to the mid pipe. Yours might be the same. Mufflers are basically used for noise levels. They don't do much else. I may be wrong.
 
Old Sep 21, 2009 | 09:53 AM
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Buy the whole assembly from the flange near the rear wheel back. DIY installation is then just to bolt it on. When the muffler is gone, the pipes will be pretty rotted too. Inspect your mid pipe too and strongly consider a new one. The front pipe lasts a lot longer than the stuff after the converter.
 
Old Sep 21, 2009 | 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by mk378
Buy the whole assembly from the flange near the rear wheel back. DIY installation is then just to bolt it on. When the muffler is gone, the pipes will be pretty rotted too. Inspect your mid pipe too and strongly consider a new one. The front pipe lasts a lot longer than the stuff after the converter.
Ok, Im going to post this pic to get some clarification. And Im not sure where the converter is actually.

 
Old Sep 21, 2009 | 03:38 PM
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what mk was saying was to check the middle exhaust pipe known as pipe B (the green circled item) in the parts diagram since it also will show rust. I have replaced mine 2 times already but I live in the snowy areas so they use a lot of salt.

What I have done is purchased a muffler that is warranted for the life of my car and have already replaced it once under this warranty. So whether it's bosal or walker, get the one that is warranted with LLT (Limited Lifetime) warranty. It's well worth the extra $50 to do this. I have already saved money once and it will happen again.

But as mk says, do not get what they call the "split system." It's no good.
 
Old Sep 21, 2009 | 05:28 PM
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On an EX, the catalytic converter is mounted under the car just behind the engine. It looks kind of like a muffler but is made of stainless steel with flanges on both ends. It removes (or converts) some pollutants the exhaust.

If your system broke off before the flange, that's the middle pipe or pipe B. Pipe B starts at the catalytic converter and runs all the way under the center of the car then turns to the right and ends at the flanged joint near the wheel. In your picture, it's the shiny pipe that goes up to the catalytic converter. Don't confuse the bulge in the middle of pipe B behind the gearshift handle with the converter. This bulge is just a resonator and is an integral part of the pipe. Unless you start welding, the whole pipe from flange to flange is replaced as one piece.

Sounds like it's time to just pay the money and replace everything after the converter all the way to the back of the car. All the shiny stuff in your picture.
 
Old Sep 22, 2009 | 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by mk378
On an EX, the catalytic converter is mounted under the car just behind the engine. It looks kind of like a muffler but is made of stainless steel with flanges on both ends. It removes (or converts) some pollutants the exhaust.

If your system broke off before the flange, that's the middle pipe or pipe B. Pipe B starts at the catalytic converter and runs all the way under the center of the car then turns to the right and ends at the flanged joint near the wheel. In your picture, it's the shiny pipe that goes up to the catalytic converter. Don't confuse the bulge in the middle of pipe B behind the gearshift handle with the converter. This bulge is just a resonator and is an integral part of the pipe. Unless you start welding, the whole pipe from flange to flange is replaced as one piece.

Sounds like it's time to just pay the money and replace everything after the converter all the way to the back of the car. All the shiny stuff in your picture.
First of all, I really appreciate all the advice.

As for my problem... well, realistically I was thinking since it is a 1996 with 130k miles that I will be able to "get away" with just a new muffler. That middle pipe sounds like something a mechanic will have to do if it needs to be replaced. And ultimately, the car can't be worth that much and I think my goal is really just to squeeze a few more years out of it if I can. At that point it will have 150k'ish miles and probably have even more problems.

I don't have a lot of liquid cash right now to dump into it, so my primary goal was to fix the muffler only. I completely agree that fixing it all and doing an A-1 job is ideal, but I simply can't afford that. Maybe that will bite me in the *** though, like I said I'm just a novice.
 
Old Sep 22, 2009 | 02:28 PM
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The B (or "middle" as you call it) pipe is just as easy to get off as the axle back portion (which includes the muffler). It's an extra 3 bolts.

When I bought my 99 Civic from a private seller 3 years ago, I had got it inspected by the Honda dealership (and...yes, I have learned my lesson..lol). They said there was rust on the B pipe and tapped it with a flat head and poked a hole and it needed to be replaced. So I went ahead and replaced it. Within 4 months, a huge hole developed on the axle back part. If you have rust starting on one part of your exhaust, it is a good indication of what will condition the remaining pieces of your exhaust may be like.

Check your local Craigslist or Ebay. I just found someone with a full OEM exhaust set-up (including the cat. converter) for $50 that I should be picking up this weekend. $50 is a steal though.

Just remember, if you are doing the work yourself, the hardest part about replacing OEM exhaust pieces is the task of actually removing the oem exhaust pieces
 
Old Sep 22, 2009 | 03:54 PM
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96, we are not saying that you need to replace the B pipe. however, if there is rust in the B pipe, it will fail sooner than later. make sure you inspect the B pipe. I replaced mine at home with a ramp and a jack. it's possible.
 
Old Sep 23, 2009 | 03:31 PM
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How should I inspect the long middle pipe?

I can look for visual rusting on the outside of the pipes, but I'm not sure how good a view I can get of inside the pipes (won't it be completely black/filthy)?
 



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