Sensor quiz.
Can anyone check my pictures below, and let me know how I did? This is on a 90 Civic with a D15B1 motor.
Sorry my bad, not sure it makes a difference, but in the first picture below, I meant to type "Air Charge Temp Sensor" in place of "Intake Air Sensor".
[IMG]local://upfiles/7347/97FF7566BC9648F880124EBBD6495AD4.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/7347/D6BD738F76314FBBB27A9C0F9C90CFA0.jpg[/IMG]
Sorry my bad, not sure it makes a difference, but in the first picture below, I meant to type "Air Charge Temp Sensor" in place of "Intake Air Sensor".
[IMG]local://upfiles/7347/97FF7566BC9648F880124EBBD6495AD4.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/7347/D6BD738F76314FBBB27A9C0F9C90CFA0.jpg[/IMG]
I think since your car has a MAP sensor, i don't think it would have an intake air sensor. If you have a MAP sensor, you would also have a BARO sensor. I dunno what you mean by a Intake Air Sensor, but the computer knows how much air is entering sensor by using the MAP and BARO sensor readings and doing some calculations. Except that, it looks like everything is correct.
Thanks again Agent for the confirmation on these.
I have think my MAP/Baro has gone bad, the car will idle up and down constantly, and runs sluggish with the sensor in. When I remove the vacuum line to the sensor, and cap it off the car's idle stablizes and it runs better, just rich. How can I test the sensor to know for sure that's the problem, and I'm not chasing my tail?
I have think my MAP/Baro has gone bad, the car will idle up and down constantly, and runs sluggish with the sensor in. When I remove the vacuum line to the sensor, and cap it off the car's idle stablizes and it runs better, just rich. How can I test the sensor to know for sure that's the problem, and I'm not chasing my tail?
you would have either code 3 or code 45 if it was map sensor, use your ecu to trouble shoot for you, that is what it is there for. it should be the first place you look when you have a problem, it has memory and stores the problem.
Check the voltage of the sensors with a scan tool. If you are idling, then the voltage should stay the same. Your gonna need an OBD I scan tool, like the Snap On MT2500. I've used that one before, but never done anything with Hondas since my school doesn't have the Honda adapter. The scan tool is crazy expensive, like $2000+, that is what i hate about OBD I. It is harder to diagnose cause the scan tools are so expensive, an OBDII scan tool can be had for $150 and a laptop.
I've check the LED code on the ECU, and do not get any codes. I have an ODBII scanner, LOL, I love it, but like you stated it ain't going to be much use here. I'll try to check the voltage manually and see what I get. I've ordered a NOKIA data cable so that I can datalog what the ECU is doing, but they sent me the wrong one, so I'm having to get that resolved. I'm hoping that the logs will shed some light on things.
Will let you know what I turn up, once they send the right cable, *Sigh*.
Thanks!
Will let you know what I turn up, once they send the right cable, *Sigh*.
Thanks!
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