Starter clicks but no-go 94 civic ex
#11
03-28-2008, 07:14 AM
RE: Starter clicks but no-go 94 civic ex
You've been very lucky. The problem is without the load of the battery, the system voltage can surge out of control, to 100 volts or more. Car electronics are built to withstand some of this, but it is still risky.
It is very easy to check charging system operation, simply measure the battery voltage with the engine running (and for a more strenuous test, the headlights on). More than 13.2 volts or so is OK.
It is very easy to check charging system operation, simply measure the battery voltage with the engine running (and for a more strenuous test, the headlights on). More than 13.2 volts or so is OK.
#12
03-28-2008, 03:08 PM
RE: Starter clicks but no-go 94 civic ex
The battery has nothing to do with power surge. The power output of the alternator is controlled by a voltage regulator, and in the civic that regulator is in the alternator (refer to page 1582 in the service manual 
)
)
#13
03-29-2008, 06:19 AM
RE: Starter clicks but no-go 94 civic ex
The problem is that the output of an alternator is controlled by the magnetic field in the rotor. This field is generated by the current in the rotor coil. Since this coil has inductance, the current in the rotor coil cannot change instantaneously even though the regulator wants it to. Thus the output of the alternator also cannot change instantaneously.
When something using electricity in the car switches off, the alternator will continue to generate what is now excessive power for a few milliseconds until it can adjust to the new load level. This is called a "load dump transient." With a lead-acid battery in parallel with the circuit it is not a major problem because the battery is a highly nonlinear device. It takes a huge current to drive the voltage of a 12 volt battery above 16-20 volts. Without the battery the voltage surge is limited only by the various car components that are still energized. It will rise to a much higher level, possibly causing damage.
So the battery is an essential part of the electrical system. Even while the car is running and the alternator is supplying all the power, the battery is still necessary for stability.
Seriously just use a voltmeter. It's faster than disconnecting the battery anyway. If you don't even have a voltmeter you can also check for charging by turning the headlights on while the engine is running, then stop the engine and the lights should get dimmer because the voltage drops.
When something using electricity in the car switches off, the alternator will continue to generate what is now excessive power for a few milliseconds until it can adjust to the new load level. This is called a "load dump transient." With a lead-acid battery in parallel with the circuit it is not a major problem because the battery is a highly nonlinear device. It takes a huge current to drive the voltage of a 12 volt battery above 16-20 volts. Without the battery the voltage surge is limited only by the various car components that are still energized. It will rise to a much higher level, possibly causing damage.
So the battery is an essential part of the electrical system. Even while the car is running and the alternator is supplying all the power, the battery is still necessary for stability.
Seriously just use a voltmeter. It's faster than disconnecting the battery anyway. If you don't even have a voltmeter you can also check for charging by turning the headlights on while the engine is running, then stop the engine and the lights should get dimmer because the voltage drops.
#14
04-14-2008, 06:15 PM
RE: Starter clicks but no-go 94 civic ex
ORIGINAL: mk378
The problem is that the output of an alternator is controlled by the magnetic field in the rotor. This field is generated by the current in the rotor coil. Since this coil has inductance, the current in the rotor coil cannot change instantaneously even though the regulator wants it to. Thus the output of the alternator also cannot change instantaneously.
When something using electricity in the car switches off, the alternator will continue to generate what is now excessive power for a few milliseconds until it can adjust to the new load level. This is called a "load dump transient." With a lead-acid battery in parallel with the circuit it is not a major problem because the battery is a highly nonlinear device. It takes a huge current to drive the voltage of a 12 volt battery above 16-20 volts. Without the battery the voltage surge is limited only by the various car components that are still energized. It will rise to a much higher level, possibly causing damage.
So the battery is an essential part of the electrical system. Even while the car is running and the alternator is supplying all the power, the battery is still necessary for stability.
Seriously just use a voltmeter. It's faster than disconnecting the battery anyway. If you don't even have a voltmeter you can also check for charging by turning the headlights on while the engine is running, then stop the engine and the lights should get dimmer because the voltage drops.
The problem is that the output of an alternator is controlled by the magnetic field in the rotor. This field is generated by the current in the rotor coil. Since this coil has inductance, the current in the rotor coil cannot change instantaneously even though the regulator wants it to. Thus the output of the alternator also cannot change instantaneously.
When something using electricity in the car switches off, the alternator will continue to generate what is now excessive power for a few milliseconds until it can adjust to the new load level. This is called a "load dump transient." With a lead-acid battery in parallel with the circuit it is not a major problem because the battery is a highly nonlinear device. It takes a huge current to drive the voltage of a 12 volt battery above 16-20 volts. Without the battery the voltage surge is limited only by the various car components that are still energized. It will rise to a much higher level, possibly causing damage.
So the battery is an essential part of the electrical system. Even while the car is running and the alternator is supplying all the power, the battery is still necessary for stability.
Seriously just use a voltmeter. It's faster than disconnecting the battery anyway. If you don't even have a voltmeter you can also check for charging by turning the headlights on while the engine is running, then stop the engine and the lights should get dimmer because the voltage drops.
FYI - Autozone and Advance Auto will test your starter, alt, and battery in the car for free (they also will charge and test the battery, alt, and starterout of the car too for free).
#15
04-18-2008, 10:51 AM
RE: Starter clicks but no-go 94 civic ex
If the battery is already at a full charge, or close (since the alternator would have been charging it), wouldn't the component of the current sinking to the battery be quite small?
#16
04-18-2008, 12:27 PM
RE: Starter clicks but no-go 94 civic ex
I dont know if the advice that these people are giving you are from their first hand experience or they are just assuming that it is the starter that is jacked but... first hand experience (2 cars) from me is the starter motor is still good, but the solenoid contacts are worn. Simple $30 fix. Ebay seller 
clickerfixer. Here's a way to double check if its the solenoid, i assume it just started happening so its not too worn out. All you have to do is keep cranking the key quickly ..on ..start...on start... for a while...if it catches and you hear the motorturn its definitly the solenoid not the motor. Give it a shot. Good Luck!
clickerfixer. Here's a way to double check if its the solenoid, i assume it just started happening so its not too worn out. All you have to do is keep cranking the key quickly ..on ..start...on start... for a while...if it catches and you hear the motorturn its definitly the solenoid not the motor. Give it a shot. Good Luck!
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