Timing belt change
#13
Okay here's where I'm at. Timing marks are lined up perfect as far as I can tell. Honda techs and repair shops keep telling me my timing is messed up. Used compression gauge to determine TDC and all marks line up so don't understand what I could do different. Going one tooth either direction did not make a difference really. One direction nothing happened and the other direction it sputtered and died after a second. Where I think the timing is spot on it sputters and backfires but does not run. Advancing more than one tooth either direction makes it obviously off the timing marks Compression readings on all cylinders are between 175 and 180 so I assume there are no valve damages. Checked all the wiring that could have possibly been damaged during timing belt removal and installation and it all looks good. Wiring going into camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor is good. Anybody have any suggestions before I pull the plug and have it towed to service shop? Car was running perfectly before I changed belt. Have a crankshaft position sensor on order but find it hard to believe that it would fail just because I moved it out of the way to change a belt.
#16
I do not have spark plug wires so that is not the problem. Got the car to fire last night. I was checking the spark plugs for spark and there wasn't any and then there was. I put plug back in and all of the sudden engine started. Didn't start like it usually does took a few cranks and than it ran. Check engine light was on though. Put everything back together again and went to start it up and back to not starting. I have realigned the timing marks numerous times. I am doing it by the book. Cam pulley is in the up position with hashmarks on side aligned to engine block, and crank pulley has mark on it aligned with the arrow on engine. I am not using the key slot as a timing mark. When I put timing cover on and damper pulley on pointer on cover points right at white mark. Checked with compression gauge to make sure that this was top dead center and it was. I hoped that after I got it runnng and put back together again I would be able to take it in and get the code read. I don't have code reader and have to take it to auto store to get it read. Since I am back to car not starting can't even do that. I misspoke when I said it was backfiring, it is more like gasping and trying to start. What would cause me to have intermittent spark? Crank position Sensor? Is there a way to get the codes without a reader?
#17
As long as you don't disconnect the battery, the code should be stored. Bring an OBDII scanner to the car and read it (I think the jumper wire method doesn't work after 2000). Many parts stores have a "loaner" program where you can buy one and return it when you're done.
#19
Maybe a bad ignitor? It started and ran so timing must be ok.
I had the ignitor go bad on my old 93 LX at 115K. It died,restarted and ran for 15 min to get me home and would not work after that. It did not code...fuel was good so it left only the ignitor as the suspect according to the factory flow chart.
Read codes like he said and keep us informed.
I had the ignitor go bad on my old 93 LX at 115K. It died,restarted and ran for 15 min to get me home and would not work after that. It did not code...fuel was good so it left only the ignitor as the suspect according to the factory flow chart.
Read codes like he said and keep us informed.