Hey fellas,
When hooking my sensors back up after changing out the headgasket, I accidentally switched the MAP and TPS plugs. Car wouldn't start, and upon switching the two it started with a nasty idle. CEL is showing TPS, MAP, and IACV which is probably off because of the other two. Tried resetting the ECU with no success. My hondata dealer said the proper voltage while the key is turned directly before the ignition position should be around 1.3V. Ground to hot is reading 5V as it should, but Ground to MAP Signal is 1.05V. How should i interpret this data?
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Web shows

 

What engine is this on and what vehicle is the engine in?

 

In my sig. My vacuum is low at idle, idle bounces, and partially burned fuel coming out of tail pipe. When i stop, car dies from vacuum drained by the brakes. Car runs great off boost and off idle. When i go into boost, turbo spools same as usual, but too much fuel is dumped into cylinders and kills power. I dont have a wideband but it is obvious that the car is running way too rich. I'm tuned on crome and thinking that somehow my tune was erased and my ecu reverted to stock settings. Other relevant info: Yes gasket was put on correctly, cleaned iacv, headstuds torqued to arp specs, all vacuum lines presure tested, manifold sprayed all over with starter fluid without any change in rpm, timing correct, valves adjusted, head checked with straight edge and feeler gauge but not decked, 440cc injectors. I'm gonna take it to a reputable tuner who has tons of extra single cam parts laying around and strap it on the dyno to see if we can pinpoint the cause and/or retune it. Any new ideas would be appreciated.
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Buy e cigarettes

 

Is your Chrome tuned to run the 4bar map? I didnt think you really needed a 4bar at 18psi? i could be wrong. If your ECU is tuned for stock or 3 bar map that could be your problem.

I would take it to your tuner and have him/her check it out and see what they say. I would also stay out of boost as much as possible until you get this issue resolved so you dont risk burning your rings or anything. Running too rich can be as bad as running to lean.

 

If it is running on stock ecu in boost you would have melted a piston from leaning out by now. It would not be rich with stock ecu settings but if it is running very rich that is bad as well.

 

He's not on a stock ECU, its a chipped and socket ECU. He's thinking his tune was erased from his EPROM and set back to stock settings. I dont see that possible though. I am thinking he added his 4 bar MAP after he was originally tuned and his ECU isnt tuned to handle that 4 bar MAP.

 

Yes I meant stock ecu as in settings I know he had it tuned it probably didnt erase like you said if he changed to a 4 bar after the tune that would throw it off.

 

Problem solved. He checked my bin; injectors were running at 290% in the top end. First thing i had the tuner do was plug in a different map sensor, the 4bar hondata was fried. He put in a 3bar sensor and cleaned up my tune. 222whp/222wtq on a dynojet @ 16.5psi. Know the numbers sound very low, but my t3 is good for midrange power with next to no lag. At 8psi i was making 200whp/180wtq and making marginal gains past 15-16psi. Would buy a larger turbo to take advantage of the built motor but i'm gonna sell the thing in less than 6 months anyways.
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LONDON_FASTER_SQUIRT

 

Yes your problem is efficiency much past 10 or 11 lbs your creating to much heat for that small thing and its more pront to detonation get a t3/t4 if you want alot more power, why are u going to sell it

 

I'll be moving to arruba for 12-18 months in less than 6 months. I considered keeping the car until i come back but i'd rather get a sport bike as a daily and built another civic with a Boosted B. I've had this car for 4 years, time to move on and let some lucky person get a fun and overbuilt civic for cheap. Since the turbo i've gotten new suspension, new transmission, new engine, new mounts, new eurethane bushings, soon new tires... its almost a new car.
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Pattaya Heights