I know something like this was posted by...Sniper? But my question is a little different. I want to only boost mine up to tops 8-9 PSI. Would I have to and what kind of upgrades would I have to do for this? I know everyone says the D is good for up to 7 PSI, but what exactly does that mean? Does it mean that I can just bolt on a turbo, set it to seven, and run with it? Or are there little upgrades here and there. I am going to get the FMU, hi-flow injectors, a rail (if I can find it for an HX) for the fuel side of it, but what about the motor itself. Would I need to get stronger pistons, sleeves, etc? (Keep in mind, I know nothing about ratios or too much about engine internals, so if you quote them, you'll lose me!) Thanks!!!

 

What most people dont' think about is that boost is adjustable. Not so easily on a SC, but with a turbo it could just be the turn of a screw. What people refer to when this question is asked is daily driving. You can get a turbo and set it for 6-7psi for everyday and every once in a while (like a trip to the track) turn the boost up and run race gas and/or retard the timing or whatever tuning tools that you have.

You aren't going to want to run 10-11psi on the tock internals everyday, but for a dyno run or a few passes at the track you should be Ok, provided you take the necessary precautions.

 

I honestly don't want to go over 9PSI, and I doubt I will cuz I don't go to the track often and I don't street race, so I guess it's more mental than anything else. I just don't want to push my luck with my only car pushing 140k on the odometer! Honda motors are tough, but I don't want to test that theory if I don't have to! You think it'd be fine at, say, 8-8.5? Or should I stick to 7, and what kind of HP/torque increase would I be looking at (guesstimate)?

 

first off you dont need a fuel rail unless you are running high boost...

depending on what injectors you are getting depends on if you need a fmu

probably need a missing link (map bypass valve)

you should be fine running 8-8.5lbs as long as every gear you arn't boost boost boost, like every now and then will be fine..

 

Depending on the tune, you could expect ~ 7-8 Hp per psi. Not sure on the torque numbers.

With 140K, I would stick to 7. I know it doesn't sound like much, but that's a huge increase in power.

If you don't go to the track and you don't street race, why not swap? How much were you looking at spending on the boost?

 

ARP headstuds and forged rods and you'll be golden.

 

I would not boost on the HX head, it is a waist. Upgrades I would do if I were you and this is before boost is

1. EX Head
2. EX Intake Manifold
3. EX Transmission
4. EX ECU

You just will not get your money's worth boosting the HX head. I seen a guy on the internet posting about a HX turbo setup and at 6.5 psi he only made like 138whp which is not worth the $1500+ you will be in the whole for it.

 

I'm gonna swap. Later....To a K20A. But until then, I'm gonna make this car fun. I already bought a kit off eBay, like I said in the "Classifieds" thread for ~700. I'm gonna see if it will fit, the guy GUARANTEED it would, so we'll see. I just want a little more skip in it, if you get what I mean! Then when I get the swap in, I'll either buy an older model civic and put the TC'd D in it, or sell it all.
I'm not looking for a powerhouse, just a drastic improvement. My powerhouse will come later with the swap. But is all that EX upgrade stuff, to make the engine a powerhouse, or is there a relevance (i.e. that stuff would make it safer to boost) I'm perfectly happy with 7-8PSI. I'm not a street racer or anything, it'll just be something to smile about when I pull on one of these cocky college kids and the 14-15 year olds driving around. And as for price, refer above...~700 for the kit.

Just trying to absorb it all. Once I find that stuff, I can just take that in to a shop and they can install it? (I don't have a shop to do it in) What about camshafts, etc? I don't want to rebuild the entire engine, just the parts that are going to be the weak links. Thank you all for the inputs BTW!!! Appreciate every bit of it!!!

 

These are all just $100 to $300 tops per mod and will drasticly help you out. The tranny will shave a good .6/.7 off your 1/4 mile, the intake manifold will help flow the air from the turbo tons better, the ex head and ecu will get you away from the econo 3 stage vtec breath tons better.

The intake manifold and the head/ecu should be way up there on the list because a engine is no more than a air pump and the more air you can take in and get rid of the better. I would lean away from a K20 swap man it is very very costly and I am not just talking a couple grand I am talking on a engine swap that will cost more than your car is worth.

 

D*mn straight! I spent about $4k on my car and the swap will be ~4500, not to include mounts, front axles, labor etc. But it'll be a fun little car to shoot around. At that point, I might take her to the track. I've only been to the track once, saw how puny and insignificant a stock D can be...I wasn't hoping for much anyway! But if I get the K in there, it will be a feat for me, I'll learn a lot from it, and I will be able to say that I have done it...FINALLY!!! It's more of a mental thing than needing the power, I guess! But it'll still be cheaper than a 20-25k RSX-S!