Alright, Im finally decided on a turbo. The thing is, is that I know not a damn about them. Well, barely anything really. First question is:
1.How do you adjust the boost in an internal wastegate, is it by replacing and putting in an entierly new spring, or tightening the screw? Also, do you usually need to have an electronic boost controller unit or is it not neccessary?
2.How does FMU work and what exactly does it do, also whats the point of VAFC then?
3.How do you determine by how much to retard the timing, or does it measure by how much boost you're running?

Please awnser the following for now, Im sure I'll have plenty more later.
Andrey

 

Actually those were all preceeding, but I know what you meant.

1. I thought it was just a turn of the screw. Of course I guess thats the the difference in an adjustable wastegate. They also make manual boost controllers (MBC). It's just a little adjustable valve.

2. A FMU is boost controlled. When it sense more boost- it send more fuel. They come in different ratios such as 12:1, 10:1, 6:1- meaning 12 psi more fuel pressure for every pound of boost and so on... I'm not too clear on a VAFC either.

3. The timing is determined by how much boost you are running but there isn't any set formula that I have seen. I think the boost controllers retard the timing for you under boost conditions.

Of course I dont' know shat about turbos so I could be lying (or just wrong). In any case, it's what I've read. Maybe LEVIII will grace you with his presence.

 

ok, thanks Sniper! Every bit helps! Indeed LEVIII's presence (or any body else that knows what they're talking about) would be greatly appreciated.

 

Duduntaduh....................


You cant adjust boost with a waste gat wether its external or internal.


Wait, I take that back, you cant reliably adjust boost without a boost controller, some people do weld the wastegate actuator solid.

Get yourself a manual boost controller and it changes when the wastegate opens and closes for your. An electronic boost controller does the same thing, only via electronics and from inside the car.

Streep striper (<----lol) was right about the FMU, but if you have the VAFC you could use that instead I think, but you will deffinatly need to get it proffesionlly tuned or at the very very very least get a wideband and start out bu dumping in so much fuel you will start with less MPG then Im getting right now (about 14-15) and then start to tune it from there. I dont have much experience with this but I will very very soon as my wideband is being shipped out to me on wednesday and I think I am going make Sacicons help me tune it an monitor the laptop while I drive so I may know more about this soon.

Also I cant remember but does the VAFC control timing? I dont think it does. Too bad to, timing is where the real power is, also where the real danger lies. Retard it all the way in the begining and then tune from there, or then take it to the guys who are going to tune for you.

Not 100 percent but I think you should shoot for about 11.5:1 for a good tune, I am tuning 11.3:1 for my car on 91 cali **** water. Double check that 11.5 though just to be sure.

 

11.5 sounds pretty good, though if you can get 93 at the pump, you could go a little higher than that. maybe 12 with conservative ignition timing.

 

yea i got to ask a Q about that too. Im ordering my kit this week.......and it comes with the wastegate spring set @ 6PSI......it also comes with a 10:1 FMU.......the FMU just replaces the fuel pressure regualtor correct? I always thought if i just had a 6PSI wastegate i wouldnt have to worry about the boost going over 6psi........and then a VAFC would just be used to tune it. From what ive been told thou running 6PSI wont really require a tune as long as ive got a FMU. FASTCIVIC has an auto slushbox like i do.......so im sure hell be keeping his boost levels low as well.

 

I'd tune to 12:1... but thats just me. More than that is getting on the too rich side IMO.

 

Ive never tuned a turbo civic myself before so I cant say but I know if I tuned my car to 12:1 it would go BOOM!

I just assumed about 11.5 would be good especially with hight compression and the normally NA engine.


As for only running 6 psi you will still get small boost spikes that jump over 6 so you just need to make sure the fuel is there

 

Ok, got a lot of info comin in that's good. How exactly do you figure out when you retard the timing, that you're getting a say 11:5? I was gonna have my car proffesionally tuned, but around where I live I doubt they have any dynos. Hell, I don't even know of any good tuners. Is it possible to tune with out a dyno? Also, I was thinking of running 7-8 PSI, is that a bit too much to take for a poor ol' auto tranny?

Thanks guys!

 

the higher the boost the more strain on the transmission. Im guessing ur internals are still stock too.....so once u go over 6PSI ur really going to be gambling with the relibabilty of ur car.