I’m am now starting to sway to turboing my D rather than swap in an ls for an all motor non vtec. Ever since I got my car my friends with their Civics always said how slow my sohc was, so I figure with a little boost I can show them up. I really wanted a boosted car in the beginning, but there was so much to know about turbos that I was really intimidated. Everyday I am learning more, always reading up on putting in turbos and knowing the parts, and I’m getting more confident that I can put my own in. I made a list below of all the parts that came to mind I would need to put this together. I do not plan on buying all this new, whatever I can buy on craigs or forums I will get, especially the turbo itself. So please tell me what changes I should make to my list and whatever else I need. My goals for this is to hit about 200 whp, nothing huge, but enough to actually get some power to the wheels. When it comes to turbo size I don’t know much, so please help me find out what kind of turbo size I would need. I only plan to run like 8ish psi, seeing as it will be my daily driver for my commute 40 min each way for college.

Turbo: unknown
Intercooler and down piping: $200 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EK-96...Q5fAccessories
Blow off valve: $150ish? Not sure on what brand
Wastegate: $45 I read ebay wastegates are fine, input? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/38mm-...Q5fAccessories
Adjustable cam gear: $100 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/88-91...Q5fAccessories
Adjustable fuel pressure reg: $72 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BLOX-...Q5fAccessories
Turbo timer: $115 won’t be top of my list, but I would get one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GREDD...Q5fAccessories
DSM 450cc injectors: $75-$100 DSM injectors w/ resistor box http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DSM-4...item3a5772ae73
Boost gauge: $40 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-1-1...item5638f996c1
Walboro 255 fuel pump: $90 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WALBR...item48394483c0
Header: $70, not my favorite manifold but for the price it’ll do, and won’t crack as easy: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CIVIC...item2eaaf0e16d
I’d rather get like an OBX but for the price I don’t want to yet, if I can get a used one or something I’d love to pick it up, but on a budget and don’t want to blow a ton on a manifold.
Clutch: Do I really need to upgrade it right away? Would my oem clutch hold up for a while? And do I need to get an upgraded flywheel too? Or would a Stage 1 Exedy clutch be okay on the stock flywheel.
Oil feed/return lines: $65 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OIL-F...item414cbbeb68
Still unsure how I am tapping the oil pan.
Bottom end bearing set… don’t want a spun rod bearing: $130 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ACL-R...item4149d9624b
ARP headstuds: $115 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ARP-H...item56398f94b7

This adds up to A LOT more than I want to spend, my budget is pretty much 1k to have it in, then get it tuned. So most of this I am going to have to get used.

My last question is putting in the 450cc injectors and the Walboro and stuff won’t hurt if I put it in early, right? The amount of fuel they put out would stay the same as stock cause of the ecu, correct? I figure I can do stuff as time goes and do the main set up at once, but get little things done ahead of time.

 

Well I looked in to injectors and those would have to wait til I would do the whole turbo since I need a tune or else they won't work right.

 

Lots of no name parts, so some of that could be iffy. I have a Greddy RS BOV for $100. I was going to sell it to hamorhead but I was busy and screwed up and took for ever lol. Anyways I could also include the flange for free as long as you pay the extra shipping. How much hp are you looking at? Because the fuel pump isnt always needed, they are pretty strong already. A new clutch is also a good idea depending on how much power you make, but for lower power applications it isnt really needed but recommended cause it will eventually start to slip. Those oil feed lines concern me because a lot of the no name brands tend to leak. I highly recommend using a name brand wastegate, they are extremely important, if they dont open at the right time you could be boosting way more than you want/are tuned for. Out of all the ebay/no name brand products you listed I would only go with the manifold since its cast, and possibly a no name bov, but again if the bov doesnt open at the right time you can experiance compression surge which will speed up the death of your turbo.

Craigslist, honda-tech, HMT will all be your friends. I was almost able to get everything i needed besides the ecu, small misc stuff, and the tune for less than $700. Shop around and you will find the deal you want. Be patient and killer deal will always come up!

 

I tried to cover everything thoroughly for you here:

Turbo - try to find someone selling a GReddy 15G manifold/turbo/downpipe combo. This is IMO the best value setup as you don't have to get the downpipe custom made and it's guaranteed to fit perfectly, even with A/C and P/S. I am wishing I had done this. Look on the honda-tech marketplace forced induction section for this, I see them all the time there for about $500 or less for the combo.

Charge piping - before you choose exactly which piping you're buying, figure out which BOV you are getting. There are different BOV flanges and if you buy charge piping and then decide you want a BOV that doesn't fit what you bought, you'll either end up settling for a BOV you don't want or going through the trouble of getting a new BOV flange. That piping you linked to looks good... the piping is bead rolled, the intercooler is a nice size for your application (not too big, not too small), it has T-bolt clamps, and the couplers look decent.
However, that looks like 2.75-3" piping (evident by reducer couplers for the listed-as-2.5" intercooler), which is bigger than you need it to be. 2.5" charge piping is a better size because you don't need huge piping because you're not doing a monster turbo, and 2.5" is also approximately the size of the throttle body.
I believe the BOV flange on that is for an HKS blow off valve. I'm not sure what else fits, if anything. Like I said, figure out which BOV you want first. I think the HKS one sounds good. The GReddy style flange gives you more options (vortech, turbonetics, greddy, etc.), but if you figure out which BOV you want first then the options the charge piping you buy allows you won't matter since you've already chosen.

Wastegate - You only need to buy a separate wastegate if your turbo isn't internally gated or you want to run an external wastegate. If you have a choice, external wastegates are only really necessary for higher boost applications because internal wastegates can have a problem with letting boost out, whereas external wastegates are better at holding boost in... but on lower boost levels, like under 13 PSI or so, it doesn't really matter. Most setups that are externally gated are T3/T4 turbos. However, most T3/T4 setups don't allow you to keep A/C or P/S... they will also require a fabricated downpipe (or one of those eBay downpipes and have it modified to fit well). If you want to keep A/C or P/S you may want to think about this. This is part of the reason I recommend the GReddy setup... less hassle overall and less hassle means less extra money spent getting everything to fit. The GReddy 15G turbo, and the DSM turbos that are similar (14B for example, another good turbo... I believe it fits the GReddy manifold and downpipe) are internally gated. Internal wastegate is the less expensive route to go.

Cam gear - You don't really need it but if you want it then get it. As for the belt, I've never heard of that timing belt's brand but i'm not sure if it's a good brand or not. You would have to research the brand to find out. Since the timing belt and cam gear together is $100 I kind of doubt either are good brands... but they could be.

Turbo timer - Nice choice. There is also a Blitz turbo timer that has a built in boost gauge, which may be something to consider (only reads in kPa (you could learn to read it though), not PSI). You could just get a separate boost gauge though of course... I think the GReddy unit looks better so this is probably what I would do. Also, make sure you get the plug n' play harness. The timer you linked to comes with it, so once again nice choice. If you buy one that doesn't come with it you can always but it separately. The plug n' play harness makes it much, much easier and quicker to install (and remove if you get rid of turbo ever).

Injectors - this is a popular and proven choice. The only thing bad about them is having to do the resistor box... but this isn't a big deal. If you can find a good deal on saturated/high-impedance aftermarket injectors (DSM are peak-and-hold/low-impedance and that's why you need the resistor box) like RC injectors, used on Honda-Tech or ebay for a similar price, that would be the way to go since they would be easier to install (no resistor box required... OBD2-OBD1 injector clips required though). I got lucky and found barely used 440cc RC's for $150, the only reason I went with RC's (and I prefer plug n' play type stuff). But if you can't find some for a good price, just go with the DSMs and a resistor box.

Boost gauge - GlowShift looks like a decent lower-end company but i'm not entirely sure how accurate they are. This would require some research on the company... look for comments about them online from people who appear to be knowledgeable. I bought their oil filter sandwich adapter and it looks to be really nice quality. I'm just on the fence about the gauge accuracy. It's probably be fine though.

Fuel pump - good choice

Manifold - gotta figure out what turbo you're using first. Like previously mentioned, you should try to find the manifold and turbo together (and downpipe if possible) if you can. If you can't, you just gotta make sure everything will fit and how you want it to. Generic manifolds are good as long as they are cast. Probably not the best flow but it's a cast manifold and you're going for only 200 WHP so no big deal.

Clutch - Gonna need at least stage 1, preferably stage 2. Stage 1 should hold, but it won't leave you much room incase you decide to ever go higher than 200 WHP. Stock clutch most likely isn't gonna hold even on the dyno, making it real hard or impossible to get a tune. ACT, Exedy, Competition Clutch are the 3 brands I would be looking at.

Flywheel - Stock flywheel will be fine, just get it resurfaced. I don't want to be bothered with resurfacing a flywheel in the middle of my clutch install so I picked up an OEM spec Perfection clutch up from Advance Auto Parts for $60... something to consider if it's worth $60 to you to not have to get your flywheel resurfaced. New flywheel will also have longer life and of course be brand new thus in perfect condition.

Oil feed/return lines - Braided steel and AN fittings are the way to go (like in your link). You have to pick your turbo first. Also, it would be easier to get an oil sandwich adapter for your oil feed supply... plus, that oil that a sandwich adapter picks up is fresh out of the filter. Glowshift has a sandwich adapter for $30 shipped and it looks really solid, I just got mine in the mail. I can help you find a better oil line setup once you figure out what turbo you are definitely getting. This includes figuring out what to use for the oil pan drain line tap. Just PM me or reply to this thread.

Rod Bearings - You don't need to change the bearings (unless yours are bad or you just want to go ahead and do it). What you definitely need to do, even if you do change the bearings, is take care of what causes D16Y8 bearings to notoriously fail... the oil pump. You should shim & port your oil pump, or at the very least shim it (see last paragraph of first post in link), and here is a DIY with pictures thoroughly explaining and detailing the process.

Head studs - good choice in brand, but those are the wrong ones for your engine. The D16Y8 uses a different set than 88-95 D-series engines.
See my DIY for the torque specs and sequence for your engine. Scroll down to the end of the post for additional info about ARP torque specs. I am unsure of whether or not you can change the studs without changing the head gasket. If you don't move the head I think you'll be fine. You might as well just go ahead and try it though (since it's much less work so it's worth trying) and then if it leaks, get a new head gasket.
When tightening the studs, the studs themselves should only be hand tightened into the block. The nuts are what you use the torque wrench on. Also, it is easier to lock 2 nuts together on the stud and use a socket wrench on the top nut to tighten the studs, as opposed to using an allen wrench in the allen socket at the top of the stud.

ECU (something you did not mention) - you will need a manual P28 ECU and conversion harness. OBD2 ECUs cannot be chipped. If you buy your P28 from Phearable they will socket and chip it for you, and give you a basemap tune for your setup, which will assist you in the possibility of being able to drive to your tuner. Your tuner will have to socket the ECU anyway, so this will save you money on the tune (sort of, since buying the ECU costs more chipped from phearable so really it just moves the cost) and it will save you time at the tuner. If you order it, you need to be specific in your turbo details. Wait to order until you know your exact setup and the boost level it will be at with the boost set to whatever your wastegate is setup for.



OPTIONAL

oil pressure gauge - this is optional but is highly recommended on a D16Y engine so you can monitor the oil pressure, which is that problem these engines have that cause the bearings to go bad. For proper oil pressure figures see the link earlier about shimming the oil pump, the oil pressure numbers are detailed in that link. If you get the oil sandwich adapter I mentioned you can just hook this up via the sandwich adapter. You could also get this gauge from glowshift to have matching gauges... as long as your future research shows that the brand has accurate gauges.

Boost controller - you will need this if you want your tuner to be able to adjust the boost to reach your HP goal. Without it, you can't adjust PSI and you're kind of just stuck with whatever amount of power your tuner can get you. You may or may not care. Keep in mind that this can only be used to turn the boost up. Boost can only be turned down either by 1. getting a different wastegate spring (external wastegate only), 2. modifying the wastegate actuator arm (internal wastegate), or 3. your boost has already been turned up by a boost controller, therefore it can be turned back down to where the wastegate is set for.

Map sensor - aftermarket sensor is needed over 11.9 PSI (I think that's the number... it's around 11 or 12). You probably won't need one but i listed it for you to keep in mind.



As for installing stuff ahead of time... I find that it's easiest to go ahead and install all of your electronics... gauges and turbo timer.
You can also tap your oil pan ahead of time and cap off the port with the appropriate fitting cap (the caps are only like $3-5 so it's really worth doing). I can help you with this when I help you with the oil line kit if you take me up on my offer of helping you get that picked out.
You can also do the ARP studs ahead of time, and the clutch (and flywheel resurfacing or replacement).
Injectors and fuel pump need to wait until the turbo install.

 

^I hope you didnt just type all that out lol

 

haha, i did

i was bored and i wanted to answer all potential questions in one post

 

haha forsure, good write up tho....should be added to a sticky or something.

EDIT: o and i read up on the glowshift gauges awhile ago, they seem to be good gauges, especially for the price.

 

Wow trust, thanks a million lol. Helped out a ton, still debating on whether I want to swap and build the ls or go turbo though. The parts I pulled offline I just used as a pricing outline I guess, to see how much everything would be if I bought new (that's why like headstuds are wrong, just pricing). It is a hell of a lot of stuff I'd have to get, that's what's so intimidating, and so much to put in. The other thing that worries me is the cost getting really high as I pick everything up, I will be in college (going for import mechanic and getting internship at Honda dealer), which won't be super expensive since I'm staying home and it is only a 2 year. But I don't want to break the bank on this seeing as there is other stuff I want to do for my car too. I do know some people around my area that can help me too. How much would I be looking at for a tune? I'd take it to King Motors which is by me, and I've read to expect like $150 an hr, how long would it take to tune my car?

And trust, if I do go turbo I will most DEFINITELY be pming you as I shop for stuff and find things.

 

We cannot tell you how quickly a tuner can tune your car. A tuner cannot tell you how much time it will take to tune your car. They may be able to give you an estimate though. Call them. I would expect youre looking at around $300-$400 to tune a boosted motor.

 

That's all I wanted was a guesstimate.