Turbo plan
Alright, this will be my main page for my turbo plan.
I was headstrong on an engine swap for awhile, but for the past couple months I've been researching turboing my D instead. I haven't gotten a compression test yet (engine has 130k) or a leakdown, so I'm not quite sure on it's health. But it doesn't burn oil, and still pulls strong. Also I have a broken headbolt (the tip) down in the head.
I think this is one of my major drawbacks, I took it to a garage and the guy couldn't get it out, and since it's an aluminum block he couldn't drill it out without risking damaging the block. And of course I would want to put Arp head studs in it to reduce headlift if I go boost.
So as of right now I have $2000 to play with. My goal is 150whp-180whp nothing crazy, daily driver, reliable.
Update: I'm buying whiterabbit1012's turbo setup
, which actually was the same setup Forty04 had
The parts:
-DSM T25 turbo
-CX Manifold with adaptor plate
-DSM 450cc injectors with resistor box
-Stealthmode oil line kit,
-Johnny Race Car FMIC
-DSM BOV (Metal one not the ****ty plastic one)
-2.5" Charge Piping w/connectors and clamps (already cut to fit for the most part)
-Custom made 2.5" Downpipe
-HKS Type-1 Turbo Timer
-Golden Eagle Vacuum Manifold
-Cluster bezel replacement for ek civic with two guage holes
-GlowShift tinted oil pressure guage
-GlowShift tinted boost guage
-OBD2-OBD1 Conversion harness
-Air filter for turbo
-Oil sandwich
-other misc lines and bolts to complete the kit
Needed:
ARP headstuds
pretapped oil pan
chipped p28 ECU
standalone - thinking hondata s100
breather filter for valve cover
tune
Eventually upgrade my clutch, ACT prolly just a stage 1
Anything else anyone see's I need for this setup? I might get a boost controller but I dunno, I'm thinking of getting my car tuned for 180whp and have it daily driven a little lower not sure.
I was headstrong on an engine swap for awhile, but for the past couple months I've been researching turboing my D instead. I haven't gotten a compression test yet (engine has 130k) or a leakdown, so I'm not quite sure on it's health. But it doesn't burn oil, and still pulls strong. Also I have a broken headbolt (the tip) down in the head.
I think this is one of my major drawbacks, I took it to a garage and the guy couldn't get it out, and since it's an aluminum block he couldn't drill it out without risking damaging the block. And of course I would want to put Arp head studs in it to reduce headlift if I go boost.
So as of right now I have $2000 to play with. My goal is 150whp-180whp nothing crazy, daily driver, reliable.
Update: I'm buying whiterabbit1012's turbo setup
, which actually was the same setup Forty04 hadThe parts:
-DSM T25 turbo
-CX Manifold with adaptor plate
-DSM 450cc injectors with resistor box
-Stealthmode oil line kit,
-Johnny Race Car FMIC
-DSM BOV (Metal one not the ****ty plastic one)
-2.5" Charge Piping w/connectors and clamps (already cut to fit for the most part)
-Custom made 2.5" Downpipe
-HKS Type-1 Turbo Timer
-Golden Eagle Vacuum Manifold
-Cluster bezel replacement for ek civic with two guage holes
-GlowShift tinted oil pressure guage
-GlowShift tinted boost guage
-OBD2-OBD1 Conversion harness
-Air filter for turbo
-Oil sandwich
-other misc lines and bolts to complete the kit
Needed:
ARP headstuds
pretapped oil pan
chipped p28 ECU
standalone - thinking hondata s100
breather filter for valve cover
tune
Eventually upgrade my clutch, ACT prolly just a stage 1
Anything else anyone see's I need for this setup? I might get a boost controller but I dunno, I'm thinking of getting my car tuned for 180whp and have it daily driven a little lower not sure.
id buy a new head... you can pick one up for dirt cheap, do the compression test and let me know your numbers because pushing 160whp is really hard on an old motor as little as a d [&:]
i bet ya money that that your not going to get head lift so id go with plan d! save yourself the money and buy a real good engine management system, hondata s100 would be perfect! make your car much more reliable..
i bet ya money that that your not going to get head lift so id go with plan d! save yourself the money and buy a real good engine management system, hondata s100 would be perfect! make your car much more reliable..
if you take it to a reputable shop that kind of specializes is custom machining they will be able to get that bolt out no problem but some places wont want to mess with it just in case something happens it will be on them
^^ what do you mean it's not solid? If I get it compression tested and the engines healthy the rods should hold up fine for my hp goal.
Thats all the power I want right now, reliable daily driver, still pretty good on gas with a little more grunt. How does a turbo not justify that goal?
Thats all the power I want right now, reliable daily driver, still pretty good on gas with a little more grunt. How does a turbo not justify that goal?
Just get a new short block used that should be real cheap with the oppurtunity to build it and then turbofor even more power and reliability. You probably honestly wont see head lift 180whp but with one less fastener I dont know for sure. But if you only want a fun daily driver why not a b16a swap lookin about the same price as what your doing for a turbo and with some boltons 150whp is possible with a fun tranny to boot. But if your lookin for more power than that swap the brokenblock, build, boost. Hope this helps you.
Yeah, what I was thinking was for now get my engine turboed the way it is, and only run 5-6psi on a small turbo like a t3 tuned for it. Then buy a head or maybe another longblock and build that up overtime.
I've never worked on an engine so it would be a slow process as well as the fact of cash flow right now. Then along the way upgrade some parts on my setup and get it retuned once I swap my other built engine.
But yeah I would prolly have to get that tip out if I plan on using this head it sounds like. Just pisses me off because besides that I know I would be able to go a year or maybe two with my current engine on 5-6psi of boost.
I think i'll call up a machine shop and check out if they can screw it out or not.
I've never worked on an engine so it would be a slow process as well as the fact of cash flow right now. Then along the way upgrade some parts on my setup and get it retuned once I swap my other built engine.
But yeah I would prolly have to get that tip out if I plan on using this head it sounds like. Just pisses me off because besides that I know I would be able to go a year or maybe two with my current engine on 5-6psi of boost.
I think i'll call up a machine shop and check out if they can screw it out or not.
Aren't superchargers more expensive, and aren't as efficient because they don't utilize power from the exhausted gas? I was looking at the jackson racing superchargers, but they don't make them for my gen civic. I really don't know that much about superchargers tho.
I would prefer 170-180whp, like I was thinking of getting it tuned for 170-180whp. But for daily drivieing and the majority of the time have the boost level lower. Use a boost controller or different springs I dunno.
Also, how much whp would a d16y8 be (generally) stock?
I would prefer 170-180whp, like I was thinking of getting it tuned for 170-180whp. But for daily drivieing and the majority of the time have the boost level lower. Use a boost controller or different springs I dunno.
Also, how much whp would a d16y8 be (generally) stock?


