Suspension, Brakes, Tires & Wheels Talk about your suspension, tires, wheels and brakes within.

2.5 vs 1.75

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 08-02-2008, 12:35 AM
Mr. EJ1's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 5
Default 2.5 vs 1.75

Hi, I have a 93' civic ex and im looking to lower my car and ive heard that going lower then 2.0 in gives it some problems that i will have to end up dealing with later. I dont feel like spending more money fixing things i can possibly avoid right now. Is this true and if so how much am i looking into spending later on? Will 2.5 really make that big a difference than 1.75?
 
  #2  
Old 08-02-2008, 12:54 AM
trustdestruction's Avatar
Moderator
Join Date: May 2007
Location: FL
Posts: 11,417
Default

lower than 2 inches will probably give you bad camber problems, along with rubbing fenders (if you have wide rims or the wrong offset rims) I'd recommend the 1.75 drop. I have a 1.8" drop and I love it.
 
  #3  
Old 08-02-2008, 06:42 AM
Aaron_EX's Avatar
HCF Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location:
Posts: 385
Default

You could always go with adjustible coilovers and set your car just the way you want.
 
  #4  
Old 08-02-2008, 08:02 AM
jpnolan's Avatar
HCF Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Miami, Florida
Posts: 1,833
Default

just buy a camber kit they arnt expensive then drop 2"
 
  #5  
Old 08-02-2008, 12:02 PM
trustdestruction's Avatar
Moderator
Join Date: May 2007
Location: FL
Posts: 11,417
Default

^if you do, make sure if you have aftermarket wheels that they are the correct offset and tire size. If you don't check this, you will probably end up having rubbing issues which may require rolling your fenders, removing the wheel well covers, and maybe even buying new rims or tires to replace the incorrect size if you have it.
 
  #6  
Old 08-02-2008, 01:05 PM
reaper2022's Avatar
Super Cereal Admin
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 7,081
Default

pfff... 2 inches. It ain't a drop until you're tucking lug nut lol

I say go with a 2" drop minimum... bet then again, I love low-rider civics. Just make sure you have the right offset for your wheels width. And screw the camber. Get your toe set back and you're good to go.

(and trust me on the slammed civic thing. My last civic tucked about 1/2" of tire all around.... my next one will be lower)
 
  #7  
Old 08-08-2008, 07:23 AM
V8DIET's Avatar
HCF Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 631
Default

Yea screw camber settings and screw your tires! with any thing more than -2 or -3 degrees camber ( which you will definatly have if your lowered 2in with no camber kit) you'll be eating through tires like crazy. by crazy I mean like 8000 miles and you'll need new ones. No matter how much you lower it get a camber kit. it will save you a headache later and save you a ton of cash you would other wise spend on tires and or wheel bearings. plus you wont have the retarted "rear wheels pointing in" look lol! Unless your building a drift car and you also have a 5 foot wing on the car. lol j/k

Name:  camber.jpg
Views: 11
Size:  33.1 KB

here's a like for some camber stuff.
http://eibach.com/cgi-bin/htmlos.exe/02457.3.3258228705700007425
 
  #8  
Old 08-08-2008, 11:45 AM
civicexracer's Avatar
Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,802
Default

2.5" drop is fine. u will not have -3* camber with that drop. i'm probably in the ballpark of 2.25-2.5", no front camber kit and just have 1 washer in the rear to correct a bit of camber in the back. on a semi-fast wearing tire, i've been daily spirited driving for about 10 months and see hardly, if at all, any camber wear on my tires. set your toe to spec and you'll be fine.

as for other components wearing out, only thing that should wear out are the front ball joints, but if their currently in good condition it shouldnt be a big deal. in a year of having my car this low and racing on it, i've only had to replace my driver side outter tie rod because the ball joint boot tore, no big deal and cheap.
 
  #9  
Old 08-08-2008, 12:00 PM
ej6buddy's Avatar
HCF Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,794
Default

camber isn't what kills tires, it's the fact that you can't always correct the toe according to the camber, which is what kills your tires.
 
  #10  
Old 08-08-2008, 12:46 PM
reaper2022's Avatar
Super Cereal Admin
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 7,081
Default

Originally Posted by V8DIET
Yea screw camber settings and screw your tires! with any thing more than -2 or -3 degrees camber ( which you will definatly have if your lowered 2in with no camber kit) you'll be eating through tires like crazy. by crazy I mean like 8000 miles and you'll need new ones. No matter how much you lower it get a camber kit. it will save you a headache later and save you a ton of cash you would other wise spend on tires and or wheel bearings. plus you wont have the retarted "rear wheels pointing in" look lol! Unless your building a drift car and you also have a 5 foot wing on the car. lol j/k



here's a like for some camber stuff.
http://eibach.com/cgi-bin/htmlos.exe/02457.3.3258228705700007425
hey, a**hole... guess what?

Name:  slammed.jpg
Views: 14
Size:  33.6 KB

I'm not making an educated f**king guess here, I'm speaking from experience.

That low and no premature or uneven tire wear with over 5k miles on the tires. And guess what... I was running 3* of negative camber according to the guy that aligned it. So I guess that blows some giant a** holes through your theory, now doesn't it?

Oh, and try tucking tires on 7" wide wheels with no camber... and have fun crinkling your quarter panels doing it.
 



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 02:21 PM.