The Definitive integra -> civic rear Brake swap thread
#1
The Definitive integra -> civic rear Brake swap thread
I see a lot of posts about the Integra -> Civic Rear drum-to-disc Brake swaps, and I wanted to summarize what I think I know, followed by some questions.
First, The bits and pieces.
Off of the donor car, you need the Rear lower control arms, Brake Assemblies (Rotor, Hub, Spindle, BackingPlate, Caliper, and attachment hardware), and emergency brake cables.
You optionally need the Brake flex lines, though a better option is to swap them for stainless steel lines.
EDIT: Also, grab the rear anti-sway Bar, with bushings and mounts. This will help reduce body roll, so your shiny new brakes can do their job in the corners.
On the target car, everything should go right on with a minimum of fuss. It's a good time to install new brake pads, rotors, and Paint those calipers a pretty color.
Questions in a follow up message.
First, The bits and pieces.
Off of the donor car, you need the Rear lower control arms, Brake Assemblies (Rotor, Hub, Spindle, BackingPlate, Caliper, and attachment hardware), and emergency brake cables.
You optionally need the Brake flex lines, though a better option is to swap them for stainless steel lines.
EDIT: Also, grab the rear anti-sway Bar, with bushings and mounts. This will help reduce body roll, so your shiny new brakes can do their job in the corners.
On the target car, everything should go right on with a minimum of fuss. It's a good time to install new brake pads, rotors, and Paint those calipers a pretty color.
Questions in a follow up message.
#2
RE: The Definitive integra -> civic rear Brake swap thread
Ok. Here are the questions.
1. Is it possible to switch the fronts as well?
1a. If so, what pieces are required?
2. Will the parts from an ABS donor car work?
2b. If so, how far can you go with parts from the ABS car? Master Cylinder/booster/proportioning valve too?
(I really don't want ABS, but the local chop-n-crush has a 94 integra with ABS that I can pull parts from.)
2c. Is $400 a fair price for rear parts, booster, master cylinder, and proportioning valve?
I will resummarize the responses, as well as post pictures of the before/during/after my swap. I have a long weekend, so I'm going to try to do the rears within the next 72 hours or so, forum gods willing.
Thanks,
Ejay Hire
La Vergne, TN
1. Is it possible to switch the fronts as well?
1a. If so, what pieces are required?
2. Will the parts from an ABS donor car work?
2b. If so, how far can you go with parts from the ABS car? Master Cylinder/booster/proportioning valve too?
(I really don't want ABS, but the local chop-n-crush has a 94 integra with ABS that I can pull parts from.)
2c. Is $400 a fair price for rear parts, booster, master cylinder, and proportioning valve?
I will resummarize the responses, as well as post pictures of the before/during/after my swap. I have a long weekend, so I'm going to try to do the rears within the next 72 hours or so, forum gods willing.
Thanks,
Ejay Hire
La Vergne, TN
#3
RE: The Definitive integra -> civic rear Brake swap thread
1. Yes
1a.front knuckle and brakes.
2.yes, but not the ABS system. you could get it to work, but thats A LOT of work.
2b.see above
2c. I think you could do better, but they are getting more and more expensive every day.
but with the MC and all, its not bad. and you wont believe the difference the MC will make.
1a.front knuckle and brakes.
2.yes, but not the ABS system. you could get it to work, but thats A LOT of work.
2b.see above
2c. I think you could do better, but they are getting more and more expensive every day.
but with the MC and all, its not bad. and you wont believe the difference the MC will make.
#5
RE: The Definitive integra -> civic rear Brake swap thread
ORIGINAL: Kappa22
Are we talking about an EF here?
Are we talking about an EF here?
#7
RE: The Definitive integra -> civic rear Brake swap thread
Reasons for swap....
No brake fade on track day (or less brake fade)
Easier to do maintenance on compared to the drum set up
They look cool.....Don't forget the LCA bolts may snap and cause grief. Also a good time to add the camber kit (if needed) and the rear sway bar (****** it from the teggy)
No brake fade on track day (or less brake fade)
Easier to do maintenance on compared to the drum set up
They look cool.....Don't forget the LCA bolts may snap and cause grief. Also a good time to add the camber kit (if needed) and the rear sway bar (****** it from the teggy)
#9
RE: The Definitive integra -> civic rear Brake swap thread
I think you are right. I'm sure I have more clearance than that. I removed all that until I get confirmation...
Thanks Dogmeat, I've added "grab the rear swaybar, mounts, and bushings to the original Post.
oops,
ejay.
Thanks Dogmeat, I've added "grab the rear swaybar, mounts, and bushings to the original Post.
oops,
ejay.
#10
RE: The Definitive integra -> civic rear Brake swap thread
Looking at the service manual, there is the Lower Arm and the Trailing Arm. You mean the trailing arm right?
While you have the parts off the car, its a great time to replace the trailing arm bushings. Here's two hints that will help that process:
1: the trailing arm bushings don't come in the master set by energy suspension
2: To get the old bushings out buy an Exacto knife with the little chisel shaped blade. Then jam a flat-head screwdriver in between the outer metal ring and one of the two inner metal arcs to create tension in the rubber material in-between. Start cutting the rubber from in-between with your chisel blade. Tthe inner metal arc should pull away from the outer ring and give you room to work. MUCH easier than using a hack-saw blade like the instructions say.
While you have the parts off the car, its a great time to replace the trailing arm bushings. Here's two hints that will help that process:
1: the trailing arm bushings don't come in the master set by energy suspension
2: To get the old bushings out buy an Exacto knife with the little chisel shaped blade. Then jam a flat-head screwdriver in between the outer metal ring and one of the two inner metal arcs to create tension in the rubber material in-between. Start cutting the rubber from in-between with your chisel blade. Tthe inner metal arc should pull away from the outer ring and give you room to work. MUCH easier than using a hack-saw blade like the instructions say.