Tips & Tricks
#131
How to remove 2012 Engine Shield
Well, we finally got some snow out west, but it meant bad news for my 2012 Civic. After its first snowy drive of the season, the engine shield got ripped off and bend under the car. The plastic splash guards are still in good condition, but that metal piece that goes under the engine is all tacoed up. I'm trying to remove it, but it's still attached to the plastic splash guards at some places, but I can't figure out how to pull them apart.
Anyone here got experience with removing a metal engine shield from the plastic splash guards underneath a 2012 Civic?
Anyone here got experience with removing a metal engine shield from the plastic splash guards underneath a 2012 Civic?
#132
Lower Ball Joint Trick - Getting them in EASY!! (for EG models..far as I know)
Materials Needed:
-Small Blow Torch (from Walmart or hardware store..$8-$15)
-A Regular Hammer (wood handle)
When you get your NEW Ball joints, put them in the freezer for at LEAST 30 minutes..or hours, nothing will happen if they are in there too long.
After you get the OLD Lower Ball Joints out of the arm, get your blow torch, turn it on(medium fire setting) and leave it CAREFULLY an inch away from the hole(along the rim) where the New Ball Joint goes, Set it up in a way where you leave the torch there for AT LEAST 10 minutes.
Turn your torch off after 10 minutes, QUICKLY get your frozen Ball Joints out the freezer(within a minute). Place the Ball Joint in the hole(don't worry..the rubber will not burn on the Ball Joint), and hammer the top of the Ball Joint lightly in place(no need to BANG it in).
Make sure the Ball joint top is flush, to ensure this check where the snap ring would goes, if you fully see the place where the snap ring goes, then your ball joints are flush and don't need to hammer anymore.
Also...you can use that Blow Torch for other projects like rusted, hard-to-get-out bolts or burning out rubber engine supports. So it's never a one time use item!
Materials Needed:
-Small Blow Torch (from Walmart or hardware store..$8-$15)
-A Regular Hammer (wood handle)
When you get your NEW Ball joints, put them in the freezer for at LEAST 30 minutes..or hours, nothing will happen if they are in there too long.
After you get the OLD Lower Ball Joints out of the arm, get your blow torch, turn it on(medium fire setting) and leave it CAREFULLY an inch away from the hole(along the rim) where the New Ball Joint goes, Set it up in a way where you leave the torch there for AT LEAST 10 minutes.
Turn your torch off after 10 minutes, QUICKLY get your frozen Ball Joints out the freezer(within a minute). Place the Ball Joint in the hole(don't worry..the rubber will not burn on the Ball Joint), and hammer the top of the Ball Joint lightly in place(no need to BANG it in).
Make sure the Ball joint top is flush, to ensure this check where the snap ring would goes, if you fully see the place where the snap ring goes, then your ball joints are flush and don't need to hammer anymore.
Also...you can use that Blow Torch for other projects like rusted, hard-to-get-out bolts or burning out rubber engine supports. So it's never a one time use item!
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