Turtlegrip 1997 Civic DX
#171
01-15-2013, 10:11 AM
I am not saying he didnt do the work, but probably did it very quickly. Many mechanics need to get back to basics and take their time.
As far as the tire wear, you must drive that car hard if there is nothing wrong with it.
As far as the tire wear, you must drive that car hard if there is nothing wrong with it.
Last edited by cvcrcr99; 04-10-2013 at 08:48 AM.
#172
01-16-2013, 09:45 PM
Last edited by Turtlegrip; 01-16-2013 at 09:50 PM.
#173
02-09-2013, 03:12 PM
So i went to hmotors the other day and they not only lack a supply of CTR 5 lug swaps, there is a waiting list for them! So i got on the list and ill be contacting them every other week shortly after they get shipments in... Same goes for the ITR 16" 10 spoke rims. So since itll be a month minimum until i can grab these i went and upgraded my subs. The ones i was borrowing went back to my friend and while my old 12s were out they got ruined even worse (hard to believe i know) so i was trying out some 10" subs and found out 10" just cannot cut it, there is no low end. i got dual 12" rockford fosgate p2...
i love them.
so now while i wait for this 5 lug i am gonna work on some simple cosmetics. some of the dash panels could use touch up paint from sharp things hitting it and peeling small amounts of paint. the panel under the steering column snapped at the parts that click in so there is a zip tie holding it up and its looks like crap so i need to replace that part.
the windows suck to roll up and down and they rattle nonstop when im accelerating (possibly because of the shotty bearing but i am not gonna replace them when im waiting for the 5lug) so I am gonna take the door apart and grease/repair the regulators and ghetto dynomat with some thin rubber ill cut into strips lol...
lastly i am going to rerun the wiring in the car so that all higher power wires run on the passenger side (1/0 gauge, screen a/c wire, amp switches) and i will run the vga/usb/speaker cables on the driver side (i am going to remove a usb line from the front and just use a splitter on the one already there, 3 usb cables bulges too much when tucked [just a note to self]) and hopefully this will remove the last of the alternator whine. at the same time i need to check everything in the carPC because it freezes whenever i hit a turn hard or stop very quickly and this was never an issue before, i need to look into missing screws and loose cables on the mobo then maybe look into a new SSD...
will update once something happens with the swap.
UPDATE 2-18-2013
Got a new alpine f-30 4 channel amplifier and alpine type s speakers up front (already have them in back) and rewired the car like i said. it all sounds amazing now. I got a new SSD for my computer (intel330) and ditched the video card in the PC, it turns out that that was what was making the computer freeze because the mounting bracket did not fit properly so it would shake from bass/turns and freeze the PC. I dont need a video card for what i use it for in the car so its no loss.
Today i was driving around running errands and as i was leaving the store my car wouldnt start... just the starter click... i had to push start the car and get home and when i did the tranny ground was almost completely melted...
so i let everything cool off and removed the ground and it pretty much fell apart when i was massing with it. not cool because that is the same 1/0 wire that is running through the entire car. Anyway i replaced it with nice new 4 gauge cable (which is what all the other ground are anyway, maybe that had something to do with the problem?) and everything is good as new. I though the starter went bad which wouldnt be that bad but would have had me worrying about what might have caused it...(battery was fine).
didnt wanna make a new post for this but...ya. Ill update once i hear something about the 5lug.
i love them.
so now while i wait for this 5 lug i am gonna work on some simple cosmetics. some of the dash panels could use touch up paint from sharp things hitting it and peeling small amounts of paint. the panel under the steering column snapped at the parts that click in so there is a zip tie holding it up and its looks like crap so i need to replace that part.
the windows suck to roll up and down and they rattle nonstop when im accelerating (possibly because of the shotty bearing but i am not gonna replace them when im waiting for the 5lug) so I am gonna take the door apart and grease/repair the regulators and ghetto dynomat with some thin rubber ill cut into strips lol...
lastly i am going to rerun the wiring in the car so that all higher power wires run on the passenger side (1/0 gauge, screen a/c wire, amp switches) and i will run the vga/usb/speaker cables on the driver side (i am going to remove a usb line from the front and just use a splitter on the one already there, 3 usb cables bulges too much when tucked [just a note to self]) and hopefully this will remove the last of the alternator whine. at the same time i need to check everything in the carPC because it freezes whenever i hit a turn hard or stop very quickly and this was never an issue before, i need to look into missing screws and loose cables on the mobo then maybe look into a new SSD...
will update once something happens with the swap.
UPDATE 2-18-2013
Got a new alpine f-30 4 channel amplifier and alpine type s speakers up front (already have them in back) and rewired the car like i said. it all sounds amazing now. I got a new SSD for my computer (intel330) and ditched the video card in the PC, it turns out that that was what was making the computer freeze because the mounting bracket did not fit properly so it would shake from bass/turns and freeze the PC. I dont need a video card for what i use it for in the car so its no loss.
Today i was driving around running errands and as i was leaving the store my car wouldnt start... just the starter click... i had to push start the car and get home and when i did the tranny ground was almost completely melted...
so i let everything cool off and removed the ground and it pretty much fell apart when i was massing with it. not cool because that is the same 1/0 wire that is running through the entire car. Anyway i replaced it with nice new 4 gauge cable (which is what all the other ground are anyway, maybe that had something to do with the problem?) and everything is good as new. I though the starter went bad which wouldnt be that bad but would have had me worrying about what might have caused it...(battery was fine).
didnt wanna make a new post for this but...ya. Ill update once i hear something about the 5lug.
Last edited by Turtlegrip; 02-18-2013 at 10:45 PM.
#174
04-04-2013, 12:36 AM
Picked up a few things today:
00 Civic Si 15/16 Master Brake Cylinder
(Hopefully) 99-00 Civic Si Proportioning Valve
There is no way (apparently) to tell if the are 30/40 or 40/40 although someone told me I could take it to a dealership to find out so ill try that tomorrow!
Goodridge SS Brake lines (Teflon coated)
everything:
Gonna have this 5-lug going soon. Also working on a side car d16y8 right now, although it looks like it is going to need a new head gasket which is a big headache but oh well, good experience. Engine has been running amazing. Ended up getting new rotors brake and tires for my car anyway because it was getting so bad, I guess that will just make it all easier to sell anyway...
Will update when something happens.
00 Civic Si 15/16 Master Brake Cylinder
(Hopefully) 99-00 Civic Si Proportioning Valve
There is no way (apparently) to tell if the are 30/40 or 40/40 although someone told me I could take it to a dealership to find out so ill try that tomorrow!
Goodridge SS Brake lines (Teflon coated)
everything:
Gonna have this 5-lug going soon. Also working on a side car d16y8 right now, although it looks like it is going to need a new head gasket which is a big headache but oh well, good experience. Engine has been running amazing. Ended up getting new rotors brake and tires for my car anyway because it was getting so bad, I guess that will just make it all easier to sell anyway...
Will update when something happens.
#175
04-10-2013, 01:50 AM
side build
I dont know where else to do this and dont really wanna make a new thread but do wanna save this so Ill just do it in quotes, it is a side project of just a d16y8 rebuild...
To be continued... While I wait for my 5-lug...
I got a red 1997 Civic EX for really cheap from a friend because it was not running. I wanted to try fixing a car and this had been sitting for 6 months, dead.
Sorry for lack of a better picture but it looks like crap, I will fix the gaps and some dents and touch up the paint before i take better photos...
I towed it to my house and got sparks plugs, dizzy, spark wires, oil, coolant, flushed brake/clutch fluid, full tank of gas with fuel treatment(half 1/4 of tank sitting 6 months), battery. Car started up and ran for a couple days. Didnt pass smog, i did valve adjustment and ran seafoam. Head gasket problems became very apparent. Take car apart, get head milled/rebuilt. It has bad cracks in cylinder one and multiple spark plug threads/tubes are cracked.
Part new, part rebuilt y8 head.
Full gasket kit and seals.
All new belts and water pump.
New OEM head bolts.
Cleaning stuff and copper sealant.
Cleaned up the head (cylinder one has dents from something in there
I tried to smooth it out it a little, it isnt as bad as it looks...).
Getting ready to put the head back on.
Got it on with the new HG and a little copper sealant (missing a couple exhaust manifold bolts -_-).
Timing belt and tensioner along with new water pump (before belt was adjusted), not that it matters... Youll see...
Got lower timing belt cover on (missing a couple seals since its cracked and they werent there in the first place so i didnt know where to put them exactly, and it was hell getting it on there with the seals i did get on not falling out in the process...) and the crank pulley (gonna recruit a little help to torque it tomorrow.
Tensioned the timing belt and everything was lined up perfect (which took a little time since the cam and crank were not lined up perfect after coming back form the machine shop).
Before I did the rest of the belts I cleaned the IM and started putting some of it back together (fuel rail, tb, iacv and some hoses).
At this point I was going to either put the IM back on then the belts or the belts first, probably belts first since I would have more room. But it occured to me that things were going way to easy, so I took a look around to see what I had forgotten... Hmmm....
Nice, the little oil things that sit between the block and the head... Awesome!
Decided to stop since it is getting late. Tomorrow morning I will pop the head off, apply a little more copper sealant and put the oil things in, re-tension the timing belt and finish up everything else. Hopefully the car starts up real nice like.
Sorry for lack of a better picture but it looks like crap, I will fix the gaps and some dents and touch up the paint before i take better photos...
I towed it to my house and got sparks plugs, dizzy, spark wires, oil, coolant, flushed brake/clutch fluid, full tank of gas with fuel treatment(half 1/4 of tank sitting 6 months), battery. Car started up and ran for a couple days. Didnt pass smog, i did valve adjustment and ran seafoam. Head gasket problems became very apparent. Take car apart, get head milled/rebuilt. It has bad cracks in cylinder one and multiple spark plug threads/tubes are cracked.
Part new, part rebuilt y8 head.
Full gasket kit and seals.
All new belts and water pump.
New OEM head bolts.
Cleaning stuff and copper sealant.
Cleaned up the head (cylinder one has dents from something in there
I tried to smooth it out it a little, it isnt as bad as it looks...).Getting ready to put the head back on.
Got it on with the new HG and a little copper sealant (missing a couple exhaust manifold bolts -_-).
Timing belt and tensioner along with new water pump (before belt was adjusted), not that it matters... Youll see...
Got lower timing belt cover on (missing a couple seals since its cracked and they werent there in the first place so i didnt know where to put them exactly, and it was hell getting it on there with the seals i did get on not falling out in the process...) and the crank pulley (gonna recruit a little help to torque it tomorrow.
Tensioned the timing belt and everything was lined up perfect (which took a little time since the cam and crank were not lined up perfect after coming back form the machine shop).
Before I did the rest of the belts I cleaned the IM and started putting some of it back together (fuel rail, tb, iacv and some hoses).
At this point I was going to either put the IM back on then the belts or the belts first, probably belts first since I would have more room. But it occured to me that things were going way to easy, so I took a look around to see what I had forgotten... Hmmm....
Nice, the little oil things that sit between the block and the head... Awesome!
Decided to stop since it is getting late. Tomorrow morning I will pop the head off, apply a little more copper sealant and put the oil things in, re-tension the timing belt and finish up everything else. Hopefully the car starts up real nice like.
Let me wrap up this part up (9-24-2013):
After the work done the engine still had problems (presumably from warpage/cracks in the block. So I got a D15B (non-vtec/jdm) and started up a Mini-Me swap; D15b block and d16y8 head. Used all y8 parts on the head, y8 timing belt/water pump, y8 head bolts fit (everyone said i would need d15 bolts, well with the jdm d15b that was not true). Y8 obd2 ECU, rewired crack sensor to bypass without swapping oil pumps even though it looks like i could have just screwed the sensor in i didnt...
After all this was back together I started it up and it ran alright, the timing belt sounded a little loose but nothing serious, but when it warmed up all the way a misty white smoke started coming off the engine and it smelled pretty funny, nothing specific. After a bit of troubleshooting I could not pinpoint anything and the car is now at a friends shop to get a second opinion. I am guessing either something dumb I forgot, or still a problem in the head in which case I will take it back to the machine shop that rebuilt it and complain... Enough about mini-mes though...
After the work done the engine still had problems (presumably from warpage/cracks in the block. So I got a D15B (non-vtec/jdm) and started up a Mini-Me swap; D15b block and d16y8 head. Used all y8 parts on the head, y8 timing belt/water pump, y8 head bolts fit (everyone said i would need d15 bolts, well with the jdm d15b that was not true). Y8 obd2 ECU, rewired crack sensor to bypass without swapping oil pumps even though it looks like i could have just screwed the sensor in i didnt...
After all this was back together I started it up and it ran alright, the timing belt sounded a little loose but nothing serious, but when it warmed up all the way a misty white smoke started coming off the engine and it smelled pretty funny, nothing specific. After a bit of troubleshooting I could not pinpoint anything and the car is now at a friends shop to get a second opinion. I am guessing either something dumb I forgot, or still a problem in the head in which case I will take it back to the machine shop that rebuilt it and complain... Enough about mini-mes though...
Last edited by Turtlegrip; 09-24-2013 at 05:00 PM.
#176
09-24-2013, 05:15 PM
Been a long time since I posted something, been busy with school and work so stopped posting all the little things I have done. But finally got my 5 lugs swap!
CTR Stock Struts/Springs
CTR 5-lug spindles/front upper control arm, rear trailing arm
ITR 5-lug 16" rims
Took about 2 days mostly working at night to avoid the heat and I got it done. No impact gun broke my axles nuts but I had spares to throw on and got them tightened with an impact gun at a shop. Still using 13/16th MC but have a 1" ITR MC to throw in right now but lazy since I am gonna recheck everything I did in the swap at the same time (been about a week). OEM rotors/pep boys ceramic pads, goodridge ss brake lines.
Stops amazing now, even with the 13/16th MC. It actual scares me a little to realize how little stopping power i had before, also acknowledging that my tires themselves were terrible before (now have goodridge re760). No longer lowered and it is actually nice to not ruin my exhaust piping every where i go, but the suspension is still stiff (also have a flex pipe and strut bars in now).
I am very happy with this setup now. Below is a little video clip of the swap, like I said I work at night (mostly with head lamp light) so the lighting sucks.
Video Clip of Swap
Next up is to fix little things like window cranks, interior trim/some gluing needed (too hot here for custom headliner mid summer) but for the most part I am wrapping my project up now. Here are the major things left:
~Engine Mounts
~Tucked Wire Harness (Possibly make it myself to save $$$)
~Recaro seats
~Re-do trunk setup/roll cage?
~JDM/Si Body Kit
~Matte Olive/Forest green paint (classic white engine bay) (repaint rims white)
~Nitrous? (i will turbo something else eventually)
~Some custom work
CTR Stock Struts/Springs
CTR 5-lug spindles/front upper control arm, rear trailing arm
ITR 5-lug 16" rims
Took about 2 days mostly working at night to avoid the heat and I got it done. No impact gun broke my axles nuts but I had spares to throw on and got them tightened with an impact gun at a shop. Still using 13/16th MC but have a 1" ITR MC to throw in right now but lazy since I am gonna recheck everything I did in the swap at the same time (been about a week). OEM rotors/pep boys ceramic pads, goodridge ss brake lines.
Stops amazing now, even with the 13/16th MC. It actual scares me a little to realize how little stopping power i had before, also acknowledging that my tires themselves were terrible before (now have goodridge re760). No longer lowered and it is actually nice to not ruin my exhaust piping every where i go, but the suspension is still stiff (also have a flex pipe and strut bars in now).
I am very happy with this setup now. Below is a little video clip of the swap, like I said I work at night (mostly with head lamp light) so the lighting sucks.
Video Clip of Swap
Next up is to fix little things like window cranks, interior trim/some gluing needed (too hot here for custom headliner mid summer) but for the most part I am wrapping my project up now. Here are the major things left:
~Engine Mounts
~Tucked Wire Harness (Possibly make it myself to save $$$)
~Recaro seats
~Re-do trunk setup/roll cage?
~JDM/Si Body Kit
~Matte Olive/Forest green paint (classic white engine bay) (repaint rims white)
~Nitrous? (i will turbo something else eventually)
~Some custom work
Last edited by Turtlegrip; 09-24-2013 at 05:17 PM.
#177
09-25-2013, 07:58 AM
Nice! I need new brakes. Just have to save up for the ITR calipers/brackets
For your future plans, I suggest buying a harness for the car, and making something tucked yourself. It is easy if you take your time with it. if I can find one for the teg on the cheap, I am gonna grab it to make something up.
For your future plans, I suggest buying a harness for the car, and making something tucked yourself. It is easy if you take your time with it. if I can find one for the teg on the cheap, I am gonna grab it to make something up.
#178
09-25-2013, 03:02 PM
Do you mean to just extend certain wires to hide them? that does sound like an easier alternative. Taking this into heavy consideration!
Last edited by Turtlegrip; 09-25-2013 at 10:50 PM.
#179
09-26-2013, 05:47 AM
Yup. I plan on getting a teg engine harness, removing all of the OEM elec tape and covers, then extending everything that is needed for the harness to be hidden.
Your Civic might be a little harder to find a harness for since it is one piece compared to the EG/DC 2 piece.
Your Civic might be a little harder to find a harness for since it is one piece compared to the EG/DC 2 piece.
#180
10-02-2013, 05:21 PM
I still have my RHD harness from the swap I think and my harness is a D16y8 so maybe I will try to find some specs and just use all hte connectors from the RHD harness, I got pretty good at opening the ECU/in dash plugs to rewire, I wonder if the sensor plugs are much harder to open.
Either way I could just cut those connectors and rewire to make it nice.
Either way I could just cut those connectors and rewire to make it nice.