I took out the power resistor and soldered a hard wire jumper in. Works great now!!! I decided to risk it after I called the dealership and they wanted $117 canadian for the part!!! What a rip-off.

If anyone else is confused, perhaps the steps should be amended to say that you have to remove a metal box type thingee with three bolts prior to getting at the power transistor.

I was also reading on the RSX forum site that tons of people with 2002 and 2003 SiRs and RSXs are having this exact problem at the same time.

Such an easy fix, reminded me of when I first bought the car and there was a buzzing coming from the Daytime Running Lights control module that had burned out under the dash. Simple fix!

Thanks to all who responded!

 

so quick question...I followed the steps and problem im having is I am receiving 12v at the 2 wires going into the blower motor, so seeing i got 12v i went ahead and replaced the blower motor, but when i did still nothing...maybe i thought since i went to autozone and picked up a motor there i maybe got a defective one, since autozone is known for selling ****ty parts...so to make sure it was the motor, I manually put 12v to the blower motor of the old original one and the motor works...so if im able to get the motor working manually giving it 12v and im also receiving 12v at the terminal that connects to the blower motor..what would be my problem here? could it be my **** controller on the dash??? any help would be great thanks in advance

 

I have a similar problem and I need all the assistance I can get.

1. A/C condensor was replace because was damaged. I charged the system by jumping the low pressure switch. My freon leaked becasue of a leak that I already fixed.

2. The A/C clutch doesen't egage any more even if I jump the low pressure switch. My cooling fan doesn't come on when I turn the fan button ( inside car)

3. I jumped the Thermal swich and the A/C clutch does engage.

4. I replace the A/C buttons and controlling ***** and nothing. (just fan blower comes on)

5. I jumped the fan blower at the relay and now the fan blower doesn't work. Not even the A/C buttons come on.

6. If I jump the A/C relay the A/C clutch does engage.

7. I checked the Relay terminals for power and there is power but when I check for ground my test light dims and blinks. ( I get the same symptoms at the fan blower relay, A/C relay, cooling fan relay, and condensor fan relay)

Please help me.

 

1. A/C condensor was replace because was damaged. I charged the system by jumping the low pressure switch. My freon leaked becasue of a leak that I already fixed.

2. The A/C clutch doesen't egage any more even if I jump the low pressure switch. My cooling fan doesn't come on when I turn the fan button ( inside car)

3. I jumped the Thermal swich and the A/C clutch does engage.

4. I replace the A/C buttons and controlling ***** and nothing. (just fan blower comes on)

5. I jumped the fan blower at the relay and now the fan blower doesn't work. Not even the A/C buttons come on.

6. If I jump the A/C relay the A/C clutch does engage.

7. I checked the Relay terminals for power and there is power but when I check for ground my test light dims and blinks. ( I get the same symptoms at the fan blower relay, A/C relay, cooling fan relay, and condensor fan relay)

Please help me.

 

Umm, wasn't that your answer right there?

until you got to

which sounds like you now either blew a fuse (there are about 3 involved) or fried the control panel.

and just for good measure, since the car isn't quite a total loss yet... you went on to

which is very likely to blow out your discharge hose since the condenser fan isn't running AND the high pressure switch is bypassed.

Put the damn jumper wires away.

 

Ok,

I had fuse 14 blown, I replaced it and now the fan blower works. =).
What I noticed is that I have power @ the relays (A/C condensor fan, cooling fan, and A/C relay) but I don't have a ground connection @ terminal 86 (relay). It seems like some thing in side the car is not sending a ground signal to these ralay.

Could it be the Miltiplex control unit? if so, where is this control unit located?

 

Does your thermal switch (on compressor, I think that's the one you were talking about before) have continuity? Switch should be closed at all times unless the compressor is overheated.

 

Yes, my thermal switch have continuity. I unplugged the switch and the two red wires coming from the switch have continuity. I also check for continuity on the two wires (black and red) that go to the A/C clutch and they also have continuity.

The funny thing is that when I use a jumper wire to the middle terminal of the 3 plug connector coming from the compressor the A/C clutch engages.

 

Again, please quit jumping stuff before you cause damage. Using a meter (not a test light) measure the voltage from the blue wire on the pressure switch to ground. It should be near battery voltage with the A/C button off and go to near ground with the button on.

The way it works, this low level signal from the control panel passes through the pressure switch and compressor thermal switch to the MCU. The MCU detects that the wire has been pulled to ground and sends a coded signal to the ECU. You can tell that this signal has been received because the first thing the ECU does is increase the idle speed slightly to get ready for the extra load of the compressor. If the ECU decides the engine is running OK to engage A/C, the ECU then drives the relay coils to ground to start the fans and compressor.

 

I did use a volt meter. Guess what??? It's been fixed. I replace the Multiplex Control unit and now every thing is working fine. By replacing the Miltiplex control unit it resolved my power lock issue, brake light on and my A/C compressor and cooling fan not coming on when turned on.

It only cost me $20.00 at a junk yard.

There's another MCU unit for a 2001 civic LX that I'm going to buy and have it ready for any body that might need one.

Yeahhhh. =)

Thank you for your assistance.