HELP!!!!

Any suggestions that don't involve removing exterior body panels... I looked behind the glove box and it's jammed packed. There's about 12" deep full of doo-dads/gizmos I'd rather not (and probably should not) mess with.

Thanks

 

Nope, you are going to have to drill your own firewall.

 

No grommets to pop off I can easily access? I took it to the local audio shop (just now) and the sales guy pointed out a rubber grommet (he says) can be popped off and the power wire routed easily. It's just below and to the right of the battery (as you look at it). I wasn't sure if he was blowing smoke, but I'm hopeful he was spot on. It's a 99 EX Sedan 5spd. Any thoughts? I guess I can try the grommet.

Previous experiences/opinions would still be greatly appreciated

 

havnt played with my civ yet system wise..but there should be a gromet in the firewall under the pass. or driver side

 

Thanks... Now if only I can sell my huge 3.2 cu ft. Oz Audio sub enclosure in the classifieds.

At the car audio shop, I picked up a new Eclipse HU ($300) and a pair of JL 10 W-0's in their carpeted box (for $255). Got home, wrote my wife an e-mail at her work, and she absoluted wigged out. She was crying at work on the phone to me.. Man, she thinks I've completely wasted my money. I'm going to have to return the subs I think... It's a shame since I got a pretty good discount on the setup... The wife didn't care. I love the subs, but the nice system I already have is practically useless with the OEM HU... Maybe I could part out my sub box and make a smaller 1.5cu ft sealed enclosure for the Oz Sub....?

 

I didnt think of that...[&:]. Yes that is a way to get in thru the firewall. I just didnt think that a 4 guage will go thru it.

 

How easy is it to cut 3/4" plexi? If I were to fab my for sale box into a smaller (half size sealed enclosure), I'd have to mount the woofer in the 3/4 plexi... Is this recommended or should I just scrap the plexi-mount idea (hate to have it go to waste) and buy some MDF for the job?

I suppose I should make another thread about the plexi.... k.

 

I just did the "poke-a-wire" test... Used a clothese hanger wire to poke thru the rubber grommet and was able to reach up underneath the dash behind the glove box (from inside) and feel the tip of the clothese hanger. The rubber grommet goes right thru and is in an ideal location (right next to battery and concealed behind the glove box. The routing will be a tad hard because I don't have such small hands, but once done, it will be routed well.

 

when doing "tests" on ur car (esp when involving electronics) i would always recomend NOT using a METAL coat hanger to POKE thru wires............just doesnt seem like the smartest thing to do. Oh after ur install ur systems power wire dont forget to get a 4 gauge wire and connect the + and -- terminal..........lol WHAT WERE U THINKING? u coulda used some sort of stick or at least something that wont conduct electricity.

 

First off, you have a valid point on the risk of electricuting mylsef... However, I not a dummy... the neg was disconnected from the battery. On the finding something to poke thru, a large stick wouldn't have been appropriate. The clothes hanger wire was VERY thin and could perferate the rubber grommet easily without having to "force" it in. Also, if I decided this wasn't a good place to route the power wire, the hole I poked thru the grommet would self seal (meaning no harm done).

Like I said, I wasn't using a lot of force, so I wasn't too worried about puncturing something. One last thing... I measured the approximate location of the engine compartment grommet, then it's interior mate by measuring certain reference points in relation to the grommet. I then eyeballed (with a measuring tape) approximately where the wire would poke thru. I was relatively confident it wasnt going to poke into a sensitive area. I can't see the grommet from the inside, but now I know where it is, I can certainly feel it.