Alpine type R
well depends on how mcuh money you have to spend. if you have enough, i would go with alpine, because i like to keep everything the same haha
but its totally up to you, and imo, i would stay away from sony, ive heard too mcuh bad stuff about sony
but its totally up to you, and imo, i would stay away from sony, ive heard too mcuh bad stuff about sony
If you can, get a 1 ohm stable mono amp that is 1000W RMS at 1 ohm. That way, you will have both the dual coil subs in parallel. I know sony made an amp like this... and to be honnest, I run sony xplod gear front to rear and while its not the best stuff around, it still goes hard. Quick electronics lession: Ohms law states: V=IR where V= voltage, I = current and R = resistance. For resistors (in this case, a sub) in parallel, current I is divided equally amoung the paths assuming resistance is the same in all (which it is in this case). V = constant 12v in cars (roughly). For adition of resistors in parallel, Rt = R1 + R2 + R3 + R4 + ... So basicly... little too tipsy to remember whereI was going with this. Anyway, Dual coil means its is designed to be run parallel with itself so essentially its 2 x 4 ohm subs that can be ran in parallel to act as a 2 ohm sub. Now if you add another parallel sub to this, there is 1 ohm going into 2 subs with 2 voice coils each making the 4 ohms. Thats what the727kid is refering to with 4 ohms stable amps. You need a class D mono amp THAT IS 1OHM STABLE with 1000W RMS at said 1 ohm (or 250WRMS at 4 ohm) or a 2 channel amp that is 2 ohm stable producing 500W RMS per channel at 2 ohm. Then you can get into bridging and what not. It just gets messy from there. Of course, when you are talking about this kind of power, you are getting close to competition grade equiptment, andthings like 20F capacitors and bigger alternaters and 1 gauge wire ect. Good luck to you. You may have just officially bitten off more than you can chew. Now, I will admit, it is 0110h and I am slighly drunk so I do appologise if i cocked up anything I tried to explain. I promise if you want, I will go over it agian at a more suitable time with a little less liquid knowledge.
Might I also add that you might need to take out a second morgage on the house to afford the amount of Dynamat or whatever its called to dampin the vibrations in your pannels. Your gonna crank it up, and your boot will rattle itself loose.
LMAO to Chaos yo confused the shti out of me but thanks to all for your help i mean i def kinda have a better understanding and the mono amp and 2chan amp i mean which is better i amp looking for good sound and price ehh you know i want it to bump and hit right so wateva and todd any help is
appreciated and that means any1 also and i heard from ppl its not good to stay with the same product i mean i want **** i have an alpine head unit and about to buy the typr r speakers for the door with tweeters and type r back speakers again this is my first time doing subs couldnt in my last car but since i go a civic i feel i need to already did a few mods on the car so help me please thanks again[/align]
appreciated and that means any1 also and i heard from ppl its not good to stay with the same product i mean i want **** i have an alpine head unit and about to buy the typr r speakers for the door with tweeters and type r back speakers again this is my first time doing subs couldnt in my last car but since i go a civic i feel i need to already did a few mods on the car so help me please thanks again[/align]
well you want as much high end frequencies to come from the front speakers, or tweeters if you have component speakers. a 4 channel would be good for amping 4 speakers, such as 2 fronts and 2 rears. you could do it with 2 fronts and a sub, its all up to you. but i would get a mono for your sub/subs, and a 2 or 4 channel for your speakers
Yea to sum it all up... Welcome to Subwoofers and Amplifiers 101, with your lecturer, me. Note, all power ratings in this reply are in RMS, never peak, and i am also assuming 4 ohm resistance, unless otherwise stated. Subwoofers and speakers need lots of power to run. Amps give subs the power they need. Subs are rated at a particular power as are amps. A 4 channel amp can be ran to all 4 speakers. This is good if all the speakers have the same power rating cause far as im aware, you cant allocate differnt amounts of power to different channels in an amp. EG. HU -> 4 channel amp rated at 50W x 4 channels -> 4 speakers rated at 50W each. Or you can do2 two channel amps (this is what ive got) so one 2-ch amp rated at 50W to my 2 50W fronts, and one 2 channel amp rated at 100W to my 2 100W rears. The way bridging works is you can basicly add the powers of two channels to make one channel with twice the power. This is done in the case mentioned before where a 4 channel amp runs the 2 fronts and is bridged to run a sub, which requires alot more power. 2 channels go to 2 speakers, and the other 2 channels are joined or bridged to double their power and run the sub. This isnt my prefered method because your rears are ususally bigger and have alot more potential than the fronts so you waste alot of potential noise by not amping the rears.
Check all your speaker power ratings (RMS remember, never rely on the peak) and if they are all the same or close to each other, than get a 4 channel amp that has the same power rating (RMS) per channel as the speakers, and then get a seperate d class mono amp to look after your subs. D class by the way, and mono are specificly designed as subwoofer amps.
Now to try and clear up any confusion i may have generated last night... every amp is usaually designed to run at 4 ohms resistance. hence every speaker or sub is designed to be 4 ohms resistance. ohms law of parallel resistors gives us the current division principle which basicly says that (... refering to text book to get it right this time) 1/Rt = 1/R1 + 1/R2 + 1/R3 + 1/R4 + ... Where Rt is total resistance, and R1, R2, R3 and R4 are your subsiquent resistors or speakers/subs in this case, in parrallel with each other. sooo since each coil in your sub is 4 ohms, and they are all the same, and they are wired in parallel, R1 = R2 = R3 = R4 = 4 ohms. sooo sub into the current division principle to get 1/4 + 1/4 + 1/4 + 1/4 = 4/4 = 1.Thus 1/Rt = 1.it follows that Rt =1 ohm. Total resistance = 1 ohm. I hope this clears up what i said last night. To put it into practical terms, you have 2 subs, with 2 voice coils eachso 4 ohms resistance each so from the equation above, we have, if they are parralleled, 1 ohm worth of total resisitance. This is where the amp comes in, if you can get a 1 ohm stablemonoblock d class amp with a power rating at 1000W RMS at 1 ohm (becuase you have 2 subs at 500W RMSeach, dual coil doesnt matter here) then you are laughing. ideally thats what you want. but like i stated earlier, you are talking about some serious competitiion grade equiptment here man, BIG $$.
Your other options are: 1) bridging amps. so a 2 channel bridged into 1 or a 4 channel with 2 channels and one bridged (heven forbid he tried this with subs this grade) but with subs this size, and dual voice coils, it cant be done. its fine when you have a single 200W single voice coil sub cause than the sub is basicly nothing more than a large speaker. but mate, those twin type Rs or whatever you managed to get your hands on, god knows for what reason, they are small sonic array emmiters, not speakers. (germans tried to makean anti aircraft guns in WW2 that were basicly like very very large subs that moved enough air to create enough turbulance to crash a plane. was only effective to about 12 ft though. and not many bombers flew at 12 ft.
)
2) using 2 amps, so two x1 channel (mono) 2 ohm stable amps rated at 500W RMS at 2 ohms each. But this can be bad cause when you try to set your low pass filters, they fire on differnet frequencys and stuff like that. Generally its better to run them off one amp if you can but you may have to get 2 amps if you cant track down a one ohm stable amp.
I got a mate with this settup, 2 x 15" type Rs with dual voice coils, running it all at 1 ohm through a mono amp (in an hyundia excel, i dont know if they have those in USA but think, honda civic hatch, and make it look more like a hairdressers car). And they are sony xplod amps too, for all you non believers. this is the settup im recomending. with either a 4 channel amp, or 2 x 2 channel amps in the front, depending on the power ratings of your speakers.
Now for your examination. your assessment piece for this subject is to design and build your own sound system. this is worth 100% of your grade. you will get 1% for everyfoot away you can make someones ears bleed
.
Check all your speaker power ratings (RMS remember, never rely on the peak) and if they are all the same or close to each other, than get a 4 channel amp that has the same power rating (RMS) per channel as the speakers, and then get a seperate d class mono amp to look after your subs. D class by the way, and mono are specificly designed as subwoofer amps.
Now to try and clear up any confusion i may have generated last night... every amp is usaually designed to run at 4 ohms resistance. hence every speaker or sub is designed to be 4 ohms resistance. ohms law of parallel resistors gives us the current division principle which basicly says that (... refering to text book to get it right this time) 1/Rt = 1/R1 + 1/R2 + 1/R3 + 1/R4 + ... Where Rt is total resistance, and R1, R2, R3 and R4 are your subsiquent resistors or speakers/subs in this case, in parrallel with each other. sooo since each coil in your sub is 4 ohms, and they are all the same, and they are wired in parallel, R1 = R2 = R3 = R4 = 4 ohms. sooo sub into the current division principle to get 1/4 + 1/4 + 1/4 + 1/4 = 4/4 = 1.Thus 1/Rt = 1.it follows that Rt =1 ohm. Total resistance = 1 ohm. I hope this clears up what i said last night. To put it into practical terms, you have 2 subs, with 2 voice coils eachso 4 ohms resistance each so from the equation above, we have, if they are parralleled, 1 ohm worth of total resisitance. This is where the amp comes in, if you can get a 1 ohm stablemonoblock d class amp with a power rating at 1000W RMS at 1 ohm (becuase you have 2 subs at 500W RMSeach, dual coil doesnt matter here) then you are laughing. ideally thats what you want. but like i stated earlier, you are talking about some serious competitiion grade equiptment here man, BIG $$.
Your other options are: 1) bridging amps. so a 2 channel bridged into 1 or a 4 channel with 2 channels and one bridged (heven forbid he tried this with subs this grade) but with subs this size, and dual voice coils, it cant be done. its fine when you have a single 200W single voice coil sub cause than the sub is basicly nothing more than a large speaker. but mate, those twin type Rs or whatever you managed to get your hands on, god knows for what reason, they are small sonic array emmiters, not speakers. (germans tried to makean anti aircraft guns in WW2 that were basicly like very very large subs that moved enough air to create enough turbulance to crash a plane. was only effective to about 12 ft though. and not many bombers flew at 12 ft.
) 2) using 2 amps, so two x1 channel (mono) 2 ohm stable amps rated at 500W RMS at 2 ohms each. But this can be bad cause when you try to set your low pass filters, they fire on differnet frequencys and stuff like that. Generally its better to run them off one amp if you can but you may have to get 2 amps if you cant track down a one ohm stable amp.
I got a mate with this settup, 2 x 15" type Rs with dual voice coils, running it all at 1 ohm through a mono amp (in an hyundia excel, i dont know if they have those in USA but think, honda civic hatch, and make it look more like a hairdressers car). And they are sony xplod amps too, for all you non believers. this is the settup im recomending. with either a 4 channel amp, or 2 x 2 channel amps in the front, depending on the power ratings of your speakers.
Now for your examination. your assessment piece for this subject is to design and build your own sound system. this is worth 100% of your grade. you will get 1% for everyfoot away you can make someones ears bleed
.
[sm=nono.gif] i love it how people will talk all kinds of ****on the internet [sm=nono.gif]
ORIGINAL: the727kid
. Besides the fact these people are idiots cuz almost all Class A/Bs are only stable at 4 ohms bridged, when your wiring options with a 4DVC is 2ohms n 8ohms.
. Besides the fact these people are idiots cuz almost all Class A/Bs are only stable at 4 ohms bridged, when your wiring options with a 4DVC is 2ohms n 8ohms.


