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EK Civic HO Alternator question

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  #11  
Old 01-15-2009, 07:24 PM
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Sorry for my mixing up the EK civic term.

Right now I am running 1,200 RMS in the Civic with upgraded grounds (Big 2 of 3) and a Kinetik HC1400 battery. I don't have a problem with dimming at night, and I attribute that to the Kinetik. Before the system, Kinetik, and Big 2 upgrade my lights would blink when I put on the brakes with the cheesy autozone battery. I figure I am going to roll the stock alternator until it dies then replace it with a HO alternator AND take care of that final leg of the Big 3.
 
  #12  
Old 01-17-2009, 06:34 AM
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trust me the problem is not the kinetik, I was gunna suggest this one module from Missing Link Audio but it seems that they are having problems with hondas "Honda continues to use the LRC module in their cars, which limits what we can do with the Honda system. At this point your best choice for a Honda is to add a second alternator" so as far as that too bad cuz they are amazing but get the pulley and battery and h.o. alternator and you should be fine
 
  #13  
Old 01-17-2009, 11:44 AM
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So I wasn't crazy about Honda limiting the alternator after all!
 
  #14  
Old 01-17-2009, 02:30 PM
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well mine didnt..... i kept the stock charging wire and also added a 0gauge wire from the alternator to the battery more directly. i never had any charging problems with it and i had a voltage display in my car..
 
  #15  
Old 01-17-2009, 07:47 PM
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hey sry to thread jack, but this goes along with this

where is the best place to find a high amp alternator for our year range? (other than from addiction since you will probably have it sold by the time i need to buy one)
 
  #16  
Old 01-17-2009, 09:41 PM
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www.excessiveamperage.com - makes a direct drop in model that does 180 amps and runs about $335 including shipping. Well, that was my quote in August, but my stock alternator is still going strong, so I am rolling it until it dies
 
  #17  
Old 01-17-2009, 10:36 PM
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^sorry but that does'nt seem like that good of a deal to me my friend has a gmc jimmy that was originally 105 amps and a local shop "cranked" it and it is now puting out over 280 amps we don't know how much over because that was as high as the meter went but he had that done for only like $280
 
  #18  
Old 01-18-2009, 05:54 AM
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^ ya because a jimmy or other good size trucks have ALOT of engine space and are not computer controlled, they are simply one wire with internal regulator and as you can tell a larger case alternator is easier to pump the juice up easily.LOL

so your paying for the better internal components due to its smaller size and computer controls internally.

and yes it sucks.LOL my alternator guy that is kinda local made me a nice alternator for my old truck for only 250bucks tho i cannt remember how much power it cranked out but i think it was either 250-350amps. worked great with my trucks 2500watts rms amp with no dimming at all!
and yes i defiantly need a alternator for my truck! its dimming on 600watts right now! WEAK!!!! i still have to upgrade ground wires tho, and tie my 2 yellowtop optimas together under the hood. its just so cold out there i just dont feel like it right now!
 
  #19  
Old 01-18-2009, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by kanarrjl
^sorry but that does'nt seem like that good of a deal to me my friend has a gmc jimmy that was originally 105 amps and a local shop "cranked" it and it is now puting out over 280 amps we don't know how much over because that was as high as the meter went but he had that done for only like $280
Go price a replacement stock alternator at your Honda dealership, then get back to me
 
  #20  
Old 03-10-2013, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by gunz4me
I plan on replacing my stock alternator in my 97 EX with a custom HO alternator when it dies, but I was given some disturbing news by a mechanic. The mechanic said that the computer regulates the charging output from the alternator, and if it isn't being drawn through the stock fuse box, then technically the computer will ramp back the alternator charging amps to save fuel. Basically, he said I can kill the battery with the sound system due to the fact that the computer didn't see the additional load and cut the alternator back to a minimum charge.

I heard this was a problem with the 01 and up Civics, but I didn't think this was the case with the 96-00 Civic. Can anyone shed some light on this for me?
Yes it is true. 6th gens, and later Civics, they have something called an ELD (Electronic Load Detector), which is basically an Ammeter which is a brown thing in the fuse box under the hood. For 6th gens you can just unplug it and take it out and then the voltage will be at 14.2V, depending on load, all the time, rather than going down to ~12.5-12.7V at times to save fuel.
---Watch at 10:30 onwards for a bit to see how to remove the ELD, or don't watch the video and do some googling
 
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