Radio antenna gone bad!
well depends on the amp and subs ohm load.
if its a typical 2 channel amplifier then if you bridged the amplifier the sub would have to have a 4ohm load bridged. most will not work with anything lower than 4ohm bridged.
most likely the sub is a single 4ohm load so you should be able to just bridge the wires from the sub to the amp.... unless the amplifier doesnt say bridgeable since some cheap ones are not.
whats the amp doing? coming on at all?
if it comes on and then shuts down then you MIGHT have a frayed wire shorting on something or a wire came off if the amp just turns on and you dont hear anything.... ive had it happen plenty of times where one of the wires either comes off of the sub or the sub box terminal cup... and sometimes the terminal cups are bad! one reason why i dont like those terminal cups! i just drill a hole in my boxes and stick the wires thru and use some liquid nail or silicone all around the wire and hole and pull the wire thru the hole a bit so the sealer is in the hole good from both sides. its messy yes BUT its impossible to fail any connections
ive had plenty over the years just fall off, or break off. i refuse to use those cheap wire cups!
if its a typical 2 channel amplifier then if you bridged the amplifier the sub would have to have a 4ohm load bridged. most will not work with anything lower than 4ohm bridged.
most likely the sub is a single 4ohm load so you should be able to just bridge the wires from the sub to the amp.... unless the amplifier doesnt say bridgeable since some cheap ones are not.
whats the amp doing? coming on at all?
if it comes on and then shuts down then you MIGHT have a frayed wire shorting on something or a wire came off if the amp just turns on and you dont hear anything.... ive had it happen plenty of times where one of the wires either comes off of the sub or the sub box terminal cup... and sometimes the terminal cups are bad! one reason why i dont like those terminal cups! i just drill a hole in my boxes and stick the wires thru and use some liquid nail or silicone all around the wire and hole and pull the wire thru the hole a bit so the sealer is in the hole good from both sides. its messy yes BUT its impossible to fail any connections
ive had plenty over the years just fall off, or break off. i refuse to use those cheap wire cups!
well depends on the amp and subs ohm load.
if its a typical 2 channel amplifier then if you bridged the amplifier the sub would have to have a 4ohm load bridged. most will not work with anything lower than 4ohm bridged.
most likely the sub is a single 4ohm load so you should be able to just bridge the wires from the sub to the amp.... unless the amplifier doesnt say bridgeable since some cheap ones are not.
whats the amp doing? coming on at all?
if it comes on and then shuts down then you MIGHT have a frayed wire shorting on something or a wire came off if the amp just turns on and you dont hear anything.... ive had it happen plenty of times where one of the wires either comes off of the sub or the sub box terminal cup... and sometimes the terminal cups are bad! one reason why i dont like those terminal cups! i just drill a hole in my boxes and stick the wires thru and use some liquid nail or silicone all around the wire and hole and pull the wire thru the hole a bit so the sealer is in the hole good from both sides. its messy yes BUT its impossible to fail any connections
ive had plenty over the years just fall off, or break off. i refuse to use those cheap wire cups!
if its a typical 2 channel amplifier then if you bridged the amplifier the sub would have to have a 4ohm load bridged. most will not work with anything lower than 4ohm bridged.
most likely the sub is a single 4ohm load so you should be able to just bridge the wires from the sub to the amp.... unless the amplifier doesnt say bridgeable since some cheap ones are not.
whats the amp doing? coming on at all?
if it comes on and then shuts down then you MIGHT have a frayed wire shorting on something or a wire came off if the amp just turns on and you dont hear anything.... ive had it happen plenty of times where one of the wires either comes off of the sub or the sub box terminal cup... and sometimes the terminal cups are bad! one reason why i dont like those terminal cups! i just drill a hole in my boxes and stick the wires thru and use some liquid nail or silicone all around the wire and hole and pull the wire thru the hole a bit so the sealer is in the hole good from both sides. its messy yes BUT its impossible to fail any connections
ive had plenty over the years just fall off, or break off. i refuse to use those cheap wire cups!
As for the sub it does turn on, and sounds good until you turn it up moderately, when the lows hit at a moderate volume level, the sub/amp power light fades out a bit like its drawing to much or not providing enough. Ill get the exact specs on the amp tonight and the sub and Ill post them here for you to see.
EDIT: ok information on the Alpine Type E right off website:
http://www.crutchfield.ca/Alpine_Typ...500swe1042.htm
10" 4-ohm subwoofer
» Kevlar®-treated pulp woofer cone
» high-excursion Santoprene rubber surround
» dual oversized Nomex® spiders
» frequency response: 32-1,000 Hz
» power range: 50-250 watts RMS
» peak power: 750 watts
» sensitivity: 87 dB
» top-mount depth: 5-3/4"
» sealed box volume: 0.6-1.25 cu. ft.
» Recommended Q-Logic Box Type: 1, 2, 3
» warranty: 1 year
Planet Audio PA2002 Amp:
RMS power into 4 ohms: 100w x 2
Max power into 2 ohms: 200w x 2
Bridge mono power into 4 ohms: 200w x 1
Maimum speaker Impedance: 2 Ohms
THD: 0.0001
IMD: 0.0001
frequency response: 10Hz-30K
Power response: 20Hz-20KHz
Input Sensitivity: 100mV-5V
Imput Impedance: 22K-Ohm
Fuse rating: 20amp *2
Bridgeable****
ADDITIONAL INFO off of site:
PA2002 Bridgeable
Dimensions 10 x 2 x 10 3/8
Thermal Protection
Channels 2
Overload Protection
Watts 100 x 2
Low-pass Filter
Stable To 2 OHMS
Last edited by megafandrew; Jan 3, 2010 at 06:45 PM.
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