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Speaker Box Design Help

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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 08:28 PM
  #21  
ngoti 8tor's Avatar
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Remy, if I'm not mistaken, we spoke about this before and I suggested using carpenter's glue and you said caulk worked better to hold it together.
 
Old Nov 3, 2005 | 08:56 PM
  #22  
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Default RE: Speaker Box Design Help

ORIGINAL: remington870_20ga

GOD F'CKIN DAMNIT! HOW MANY TIMES DO I HAVE TO TELL YOU PEOPLE WHAT CAULK DOES FOR SUBWOOFERS!
Oh, I got it, you explained it up top pretty well. Screw the box together and then use the caulk to SEAL it.
 
Old Nov 3, 2005 | 09:16 PM
  #23  
ngoti 8tor's Avatar
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ORIGINAL: mxs

ORIGINAL: remington870_20ga

GOD F'CKIN DAMNIT! HOW MANY TIMES DO I HAVE TO TELL YOU PEOPLE WHAT CAULK DOES FOR SUBWOOFERS!
Oh, I got it, you explained it up top pretty well. Screw the box together and then use the caulk to SEAL it.
Screws will eventually come loose. You need glue! All the screws are for is to hold the wood in place until the glue dries.

BTW, here's the link where it was stated that you don't need glue because caulk works better:

https://www.hondacivicforum.com/m_10.../tm.htm#107434
 
Old Nov 3, 2005 | 10:31 PM
  #24  
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Default RE: Speaker Box Design Help

[sm=smiley13.gif]

what are you trying to prove? That Remmy is wrong, or that he contradicted himself?

Remy, if I'm not mistaken, we spoke about this before and I suggested using carpenter's glue and you said caulk worked better to hold it together.
no, he said caulk is better to seal the cracks.
 
Old Nov 3, 2005 | 10:43 PM
  #25  
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Default RE: Speaker Box Design Help

can see how you can line it on the edges then screw down on top of it to make a betyter seal but ultimatley caulk will handle the conditions a lot better. Such as hunidity, extreme vibrations and warping.

That is from your link Ngo. That is my own typing. Caulk does not have ANYTHING to do with structure. Caulk is a flexible material that works GREAT for SEALING out air. It also can be found in your typical bathroom where there is HUMIDITY and in some cases, WARPING. Now your theory on screws coming loose, no I dont think so. Yes, maybe in like ten years youll have to do a little tightening but c'mon... no one will have the same sub for ten years that uses it for what its designed for. If you use proper 1" hardwood screws, you will very unlikely have problems. You dont need glue. You can use it but you dont need it. Its a pain in the *** to deal with. If your screw job is good enough then you wont need glue, also glue has a nasty tendonsy to crack under extreme vibration. I know this fact first hand... Ive rebuilt HUNDREDS of home and car speakers becuase of thier "glue jobs" and replces them with caulk instead. But wait, im sorry I dont know anything, im just pulling this all out of my ***.


Disregaurd my post ^
 
Old Nov 3, 2005 | 10:44 PM
  #26  
ngoti 8tor's Avatar
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What are you trying to do, mxs, start a war? I was only explaining why I said glue instead of caulk.

If you look at the boxes that you purchase in any store, they are glued. I think there might be a reason for that, mxs.
 
Old Nov 3, 2005 | 10:46 PM
  #27  
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Default RE: Speaker Box Design Help

And as for the plexi box in that thread, still BS.
 
Old Nov 3, 2005 | 10:47 PM
  #28  
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Default RE: Speaker Box Design Help


ORIGINAL: ngoti8tor

What are you trying to do, mxs, start a war? I was only explaining why I said glue instead of caulk.

If you look at the boxes that you purchase in any store, they are glued. I think there might be a reason for that, mxs.

WRONG. Most boxes you find at a store are caulked.
 
Old Nov 3, 2005 | 10:50 PM
  #29  
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Default RE: Speaker Box Design Help

ORIGINAL: ngoti8tor

What are you trying to do, mxs, start a war?
Nope, not at all.
 
Old Nov 3, 2005 | 10:53 PM
  #30  
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ORIGINAL: remington870_20ga
WRONG. Most boxes you find at a store are caulked.
I apologize then, because I guess they build em differently in Canada, because I haven't seen one box that was caulked, only glued, with nice clean cuts.
 



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