D series swap suggestions
I have a 1992 Civic Dx standard shift hatchback. Anyways I have been reading around but I cant seem to find everything I'd like to know.
1. I have the D15B7 but it's just being a piece of crap so I was thinking about maybe trying out the D16Z6. from what I understand this is a vtec engine and carries a little bit more power. If I'm wrong at any time please correct me. Would this swap be worth while?
2. Would it just bolt right in with all the remaining parts besides the ecu? I know I would have to wire the vtec.
3. Is wiring the vtec hard?
4. Will adding bolt on's to this engine creat any worth while power? I'm not looking to be supper fast but just enough.
5. I read that I would have to use the P28 ecu would this solve the vtec problem? And would I be able to ust plug and play the entire swap at home?
I may be way off on all of this that's why I'm asking the experts. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
1. I have the D15B7 but it's just being a piece of crap so I was thinking about maybe trying out the D16Z6. from what I understand this is a vtec engine and carries a little bit more power. If I'm wrong at any time please correct me. Would this swap be worth while?
2. Would it just bolt right in with all the remaining parts besides the ecu? I know I would have to wire the vtec.
3. Is wiring the vtec hard?
4. Will adding bolt on's to this engine creat any worth while power? I'm not looking to be supper fast but just enough.
5. I read that I would have to use the P28 ecu would this solve the vtec problem? And would I be able to ust plug and play the entire swap at home?
I may be way off on all of this that's why I'm asking the experts. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
i have a d16z6 in my car and while i'm satisfied with it for right now i wouldn't spend the money on it if you're going to go through all the trouble of swapping. just deal with it for a while, save up and get a dohc. i've driven the 1.5 and its really not that much different. its not worth it for the money you'll spend. find one of your pals with an ex eg and ask him to let you take his car out.
if you want to stick with a d series motor maybe try the D16Y8. Compression is the best of the D series at 9:6:1. Its also vtec and has the most horsies of the D series. People have also has a lot of success turbo charging this motor ans getting close to 200 horses which is damn good for a smaller Honda motor. D series motors are a lot better on gas then the DOHC B,H,F etc motors. But if your looking for power then i would go with a DOHC.
Depending on what name you buy for bolt ons will depend on how much you get out of the motor. The three most common bolt ons with civics is I/E/H.
Intake , Exhaust, Headers. For Intake i would recommend... AEM. For Headers...DC. And you can really throw any aftermarket exhaust on there some are better than others... do your homework. Adding these 3 things can sometimes add 15-20 horsepower to your car. I have a 97 ex with I,E,H...stock my motor puts out about 127 and with all that its around 150 so they do give more power. They kinda give you a little extra help with that low end power you dont get with most vtec motors.
So my suggestions: If your sticking with D series get the D16Y8 add I,E,H and you should be right around 150 maybe more because the hatch is lighter than the coupe which i have.
Depending on what name you buy for bolt ons will depend on how much you get out of the motor. The three most common bolt ons with civics is I/E/H.
Intake , Exhaust, Headers. For Intake i would recommend... AEM. For Headers...DC. And you can really throw any aftermarket exhaust on there some are better than others... do your homework. Adding these 3 things can sometimes add 15-20 horsepower to your car. I have a 97 ex with I,E,H...stock my motor puts out about 127 and with all that its around 150 so they do give more power. They kinda give you a little extra help with that low end power you dont get with most vtec motors.
So my suggestions: If your sticking with D series get the D16Y8 add I,E,H and you should be right around 150 maybe more because the hatch is lighter than the coupe which i have.
I had a B18a with a B18b head, fidanza flywheel, excedy stage 1 clutch, skunk 2 cam gears, apexi exhaust, adn than I had it tapped for vtec. I know the power those engines can put down and I know the gas they can take. I don't really want to go all out street racer because i dont feel like going to jail. I just want to stick with something that gets good gas milage and I can build on so I can take it to the track. Thanks for all the help!
check out what I posted on this link https://www.hondacivicforum.com/m_253585/tm.htm
First off, I have the D15B7 in my 1995 Civic DX coupe, its not that bad of a motor, of course I have Stainless steel Cat-Back, Hi-Flo Cat, and 4-2-1 headers, Short ram air intake, racing plug wires (getting Iridium NGK plugs and wires soon) used to have a P08 chipped ecu installed( no rev limiter, no speed limiter, advanced timing) its the Integra LS non-vtec ECU, so basically its tricked to just send more fuel to my motor. With an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and on street tires 15"x7" rims I got 10.004 seconds in the 1/8 mi. reaction time of .005 was my best and .100s on average. Thats including how I took out un-nessisary weight. Back seats weigh 50lbs, panels and glovebox weigh another 50lbs. Know that this motor sounds mean when you have tuned it, for a 1.5 its pretty f-ing good for budget speed.
I want to do a K series motor swap in the future, for about $3000. Im sure the motor mounts and the engine would go in pretty smooth, the wiring work just looks intimidating, but if I could get my brother (electrical engineer) to do the wiring harness, it'd be a breeze. But that is not before I probably kill my motor and replace it with the jdm D15b vtec.
then also here's what I could add,
1. Would the D16Z6 swap be worth it, no, i dont think. But a JDM D15B Vtec swap might be worth it, for bragging rights and descent power when you want it and great gas mileage because you Need it! :P I heard rumors of 54mpg for the JDM D15b vtec (if you're driving nice)
2. Yes, the D16Z6 would bolt in with no extra parts besides the ECU and wiring the Vtec selenoid. But, the JDM D15B vtec would be just as easy, it also has higher compression than the D16Z6, i believe.
3. Wiring Vtec is fairly easy, you run 2 two wires to the Ecu, to the correct pins of course. Running the wire is just like you would run wire through your fire-wall like you would when you install an amplifier, presto!
4. p.s. 4 question, what have you done with your D15B7 ? and what do you expect to do with this car, daily-driver or race/track car?
you can get stock motor D16Z6 or JDM D15B vtec to pull 130hp. But with simple upgrades(which isn't a lot more than what I have with my modded D15b7 I think I get 130-140hp, but its a drastic difference from stock) you can acheive about 150-160. Or you could get a internally built D series motor to do around 160hp by itself, then add in mods on top of that, add a turbo or NOS and pull 200hp +
simple upgrades; cold air or short ram air intake, cat-back and headers (4-2-1 if you want more low-end to midrange torque, which my d15B7 needed, especially when using the air conditioner :P and 4-1 headers if you want more higher-end horsepower)
I think of it like this, for daily driving, I need torque at lower RPM, which means 4-2-1 headers. But if I wanted to just race, I would stick with 4-1 headers because I'll be pressing on the gas anyway, so higher rpm power output increases. I went from the stock honda exhaust manifold 4-1, directly to 4-2-1 aftermarket, but I think I might try out some cheap but quality 4-1 headers, just before I swap the D out, just to see how much more power there is to gain at higher RPM (probably not much more, unless i had the vtec) I bet I would get better gas mileage with the 4-2-1 under city driving.
**But you know that the stock B series already gets 160-180hp, so building that motor up may get much more than you could out of building a D series up. Its all about where you want to go with your money. Its good to know what your plans are, you need to make up your mind before, so that you dont go "damn. I should have built this motor to handle Boost!!" if you get smoked by a V-8. Do you want to win the race and drive to work? then build up a B series or K series ALL motor! if you plan on turboing a B or K series stock motor, turbo'ing it with low boost may be all you want to do. If you ever want more boost, upgrading your internals is a MUST.. I've read the B20 block with a type-r or gsr vtec head is a great frankenstien to (stock)boost.**
5. the same as Question 3, but more details. Yes, you want to use the ECU of the cylinder head you are using. So if you have the D15B7, you use that motor's ECU. if you want to swap to the D16Z6 or D16Y7 or jdm D15B vtec, you use the appropriate ECU, but us Non-Vtec civic owners must run 2 or 3 wires from the vtec selenoid to the ECU. I haven't done it myself, but I am sure it is not difficult. I think you have to splice a wire that connects to the ECU on the harness right before the wire plug(where the ECU connects to your wiring)
running the wires to the ECU should be the least difficult part of the swap if you can find the posts made about the mini-me swap, its virtually the same thing, but you are not just switching cylinder head, you're swapping the motor.
I am not an expert, but I am experienced in owning and repairing Hondas, I hope this helps you.
First off, I have the D15B7 in my 1995 Civic DX coupe, its not that bad of a motor, of course I have Stainless steel Cat-Back, Hi-Flo Cat, and 4-2-1 headers, Short ram air intake, racing plug wires (getting Iridium NGK plugs and wires soon) used to have a P08 chipped ecu installed( no rev limiter, no speed limiter, advanced timing) its the Integra LS non-vtec ECU, so basically its tricked to just send more fuel to my motor. With an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and on street tires 15"x7" rims I got 10.004 seconds in the 1/8 mi. reaction time of .005 was my best and .100s on average. Thats including how I took out un-nessisary weight. Back seats weigh 50lbs, panels and glovebox weigh another 50lbs. Know that this motor sounds mean when you have tuned it, for a 1.5 its pretty f-ing good for budget speed.
I want to do a K series motor swap in the future, for about $3000. Im sure the motor mounts and the engine would go in pretty smooth, the wiring work just looks intimidating, but if I could get my brother (electrical engineer) to do the wiring harness, it'd be a breeze. But that is not before I probably kill my motor and replace it with the jdm D15b vtec.
then also here's what I could add,
1. I have the D15B7 but it's just being a piece of crap so I was thinking about maybe trying out the D16Z6. from what I understand this is a vtec engine and carries a little bit more power. If I'm wrong at any time please correct me. Would this swap be worth while?
2. Would it just bolt right in with all the remaining parts besides the ecu? I know I would have to wire the vtec.
3. Is wiring the vtec hard?
4. Will adding bolt on's to this engine creat any worth while power? I'm not looking to be supper fast but just enough.
you can get stock motor D16Z6 or JDM D15B vtec to pull 130hp. But with simple upgrades(which isn't a lot more than what I have with my modded D15b7 I think I get 130-140hp, but its a drastic difference from stock) you can acheive about 150-160. Or you could get a internally built D series motor to do around 160hp by itself, then add in mods on top of that, add a turbo or NOS and pull 200hp +
simple upgrades; cold air or short ram air intake, cat-back and headers (4-2-1 if you want more low-end to midrange torque, which my d15B7 needed, especially when using the air conditioner :P and 4-1 headers if you want more higher-end horsepower)
I think of it like this, for daily driving, I need torque at lower RPM, which means 4-2-1 headers. But if I wanted to just race, I would stick with 4-1 headers because I'll be pressing on the gas anyway, so higher rpm power output increases. I went from the stock honda exhaust manifold 4-1, directly to 4-2-1 aftermarket, but I think I might try out some cheap but quality 4-1 headers, just before I swap the D out, just to see how much more power there is to gain at higher RPM (probably not much more, unless i had the vtec) I bet I would get better gas mileage with the 4-2-1 under city driving.
**But you know that the stock B series already gets 160-180hp, so building that motor up may get much more than you could out of building a D series up. Its all about where you want to go with your money. Its good to know what your plans are, you need to make up your mind before, so that you dont go "damn. I should have built this motor to handle Boost!!" if you get smoked by a V-8. Do you want to win the race and drive to work? then build up a B series or K series ALL motor! if you plan on turboing a B or K series stock motor, turbo'ing it with low boost may be all you want to do. If you ever want more boost, upgrading your internals is a MUST.. I've read the B20 block with a type-r or gsr vtec head is a great frankenstien to (stock)boost.**
5. I read that I would have to use the P28 ecu would this solve the vtec problem? And would I be able to ust plug and play the entire swap at home?
running the wires to the ECU should be the least difficult part of the swap if you can find the posts made about the mini-me swap, its virtually the same thing, but you are not just switching cylinder head, you're swapping the motor.
I am not an expert, but I am experienced in owning and repairing Hondas, I hope this helps you.
the biggest change you could do to your car would be a tranny swap from your dx trans to an si one (off a d16z6) it has much closer gearing and will totally change your car. then look into a swap with a z6. but all the bolt ons (intake header blah blah blah) you do with the b7 will bolt up to the z6 so you won't lose any money there
what the he** are you guys talking about ? the d16z6 is the best sohc vtec motor out there.my 92 hatch went from running a 10.54 in the 1/8 with a d15b7 to a 9.85 with a d16z6 with intake/header/muffler.dont get me wrong the d15b is also a good engine but you cant fine anything for it (as far as rods pistons) the y8 is a good motor but bottom end is weak bad for boost .but you can find anything for it .but like everyone else said get the vtec transmission.if you dont it will be slower then it is now..and the wiring is very ez you have a 92 so you will not need to wire the vtec all 92's are prewired its all plug and play if you use the vtec engine harness.you need a p28 or a p08 ecu for the vtec to work
k if i posted this in wrong thread i'm sorry but i need quick answers.
story:
I have a 1995 honda civic dx 5 speed trans, i'm sure it has a p06 ecu (stock) obd1. the engine was swapped out with a d15b vtec. it doesnt have the solenoid installed. I went and got emissions and failed misserably. took it to a shop and they said it was running lean... obviously since i failed on my hydrocarbons and the other one (forget name).
what i've done:
i've replaced the entire exhaust. starting at headers all the way to muffler. yes i'm including catalytic.
i've replaced plugs and wires and cap and rotor. not the cheap either.
had the injectors cleaned.
I'm running out of options because i've pretty much covered all the issues that involve hydrocarbons. the car runs beautiful except for the occasional sputter. check engine lite is on. the only thing i can think of next would be either the o2 sensor and/or the ecu. which ecu would be the best to install with this engine. please help.. i've driven myself mad with this ordeal.




thanks to anyone that can help.. it would be much appreciated
story:
I have a 1995 honda civic dx 5 speed trans, i'm sure it has a p06 ecu (stock) obd1. the engine was swapped out with a d15b vtec. it doesnt have the solenoid installed. I went and got emissions and failed misserably. took it to a shop and they said it was running lean... obviously since i failed on my hydrocarbons and the other one (forget name).
what i've done:
i've replaced the entire exhaust. starting at headers all the way to muffler. yes i'm including catalytic.
i've replaced plugs and wires and cap and rotor. not the cheap either.
had the injectors cleaned.
I'm running out of options because i've pretty much covered all the issues that involve hydrocarbons. the car runs beautiful except for the occasional sputter. check engine lite is on. the only thing i can think of next would be either the o2 sensor and/or the ecu. which ecu would be the best to install with this engine. please help.. i've driven myself mad with this ordeal.





thanks to anyone that can help.. it would be much appreciated


