EK Swaps 1996-2000 Civics

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Old Feb 12, 2011 | 07:24 AM
  #11  
reaper2022's Avatar
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Just think... H22a with custom ITBs, BC stage III cams, BC steel valves and titanium springs/retainers, a Bisimoto header running into a GReddy Evo II cat-back with a sleeved block running a BC 2.49L stroker kit at 11:1 compression. On the gearing side, an H2B kit running a B16 transmission with an LS 5th gear. Umf umf umf.
 
Old Feb 12, 2011 | 09:57 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by reaper2022
just think... H22a with custom itbs, bc stage iii cams, bc steel valves and titanium springs/retainers, a bisimoto header running into a greddy evo ii cat-back with a sleeved block running a bc 2.49l stroker kit at 11:1 compression. On the gearing side, an h2b kit running a b16 transmission with an ls 5th gear. Umf umf umf.
*ddrrooooooolll*
 
Old Feb 12, 2011 | 01:30 PM
  #13  
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if you want to build a nice street h22...

f22 crank
oversized type s pistons
forged f22 spec rods
type s cams/valve train (h22a4 head)
3 way valve job
port and polish (butterflies delete)
78mm TB port matched
h22 lsd trans

have a nice 2.3l vtec that's stamped h22
 
Old Feb 12, 2011 | 04:27 PM
  #14  
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^^^^^ thats the plans for my build, honestly. just can't find a tranny. =[ Why is the f22 crank and rods better than the h22 ones tho? I hear the h22s spin bearings in the crank pretty often...
 
Old Feb 12, 2011 | 05:50 PM
  #15  
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H22 cranks better, rev higher due to the better rod stroke. H22's don't spin bearings often, not more than a b series. The only reason bearings are spun is because people are beating on it, and if you are swapping in a motor, you obviously aren't doing it for better fuel economy.
 
Old Feb 13, 2011 | 07:19 AM
  #16  
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f22 rods are a tad bit longer than h22 rods.
When using a f22 crank you can't rev out to 8k like you can with the h22 crank. But in return you gain a nice low end which is needed for a street car..
By doing what I said you pretty much built a h23 vtec without using a h23 block.
h23 block uses f22 rods and f22 crank.

If you want even more stroke (but this had to be done with a h22a4 block) you can swap for the f23 crank and do the same combo and have a nasty tq. curve

Scott- you can't really say the h22 crank is better...it's just more suitable for you b series guys b/c your use to revving out at higher rpms. Tq. helps out when you want to race from light to light.
 

Last edited by flcb7; Feb 13, 2011 at 07:22 AM.
Old Feb 13, 2011 | 06:47 PM
  #17  
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light to light is illegal! torque is for heavy assed accords. im just messin with ya...
 
Old Feb 13, 2011 | 07:31 PM
  #18  
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Okay, when you race, how much low end power do you really need? There's a reason drag cars have terrible idles and don't make power until high rpms. You are low rpm from first gear, and with a good launch, you shouldn't be down in low rpm long, or if you have good tires and suspension and hook right away, you shouldn't be in low rpm or below the power band at all. I know just as much about H/F as I do B lol. Like Brent said, the torque of the bigger displacement motors was to move the heavy cars they were put in. Yes torque is part of the equation of what makes hp. HP = (TQ x RPM) / 5252 Basic equation to figure it outm look at dyno graphs, it does work out. So to use a crank with a better rod stroke that can rev higher, saftely, would make more power. It can go both ways, but peak power is made by revving higher while supporting the revs by increasing air/fuel.
 
Old Feb 13, 2011 | 08:13 PM
  #19  
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would it be worth it to tear apart the bottom end of an h22 to check on the bearings before installing it? or should I just run compression and if everything checks out, just pop it in? I'd save alotta money and time that way...
 
Old Feb 14, 2011 | 04:31 AM
  #20  
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If it spins free and doesn't feel like it is hanging up or anything then throw it in, you can pull of the oil pan to visually look at everything too. I always pull the pan when I buy motors.
 



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