I hear people say different things about the Frank set up. I am in research mode now and wonder what is better CRV/tech or the LS/tech and why? Sleeving would solve the thin B20 prob, right? I like low end torque and want to skip off the line more than acheive top speeds. My goal is (hopefully) 400+hp turbo style.

 

the main problem with both setups is the lack of being able to rev realy high without breaking stuff. the b20 has even more torque than a b18, so if you could fully build the motor then it would be the best choice, but the absolute best is a b18c, because it was made to rev high and was factory equiped with vtec, it was designed that way and therfore will work the best under most conditions.

another thing is that the b20 engines are cheaper than an ls so it is already saving you money if you go that route.

(i'm not hating on frankensteins, i just feel that a B18C is better than a frank motor because it was designed by engineers to work properly, and as a dd, but a frank motor properly prepared can be just as good as a B18C)

 

IF you are intent on doing a Frankenstein, I would go with a B18. Despite having a disadvantage in initial numbers, the bottom ends hold up better when taken over red, and the shorter, thicker sleeves are more solid than B20 sleeves once you start getting into bigger numbers or FI.

 

B20B with a B16 crank/rods.

B16A head and intake manifold

The B20 does have thinner walls than other b series this is true but it is only 3mm thinner and does not account for problems unless you get over the area of 400whp. The main problem with LS and CR/VTEC's are the people who for one build them and for 2 drive them. You do not simply take a vtec head and slap it on a non vtec block. The rod/stroke ratio of both the B18B and B20B do not allow the engines to hold together at higher rpms where the head and cams are making their best power.

A crank is not a must but to get the best out of the engine I would go for the B16 crank, a good set of forged B16 rods, and a set of over sized forged B18C pistons. Why forged? Because LS and CR/VTEC's are killer all motor builds. All motor setups love n2o and I mean absolutly love it. Throw a direct port fogger setup with around a 100 shot on it, with a set of ITB's, fuel management, a JDM LSD B16A tranny or a USDM B16A with a quaif LSD, a set of slicks, and you are in the game for some major power and killer track times.

 

lol. thanks for the info, keep it coming. my only prob. with the B18C alone is the high compression. I live in Denver so if i dropped that in i would realistically only get around 200 horsies with the exhaust and intake and that would be it. I want around a 400 horse Mustang/Corvette killing machine.

 

don't expect it to last for to long if your always racing though, even hondas break

 

What's the difference between the B18A/B/C and B20B/Z cranks? They all use the same block except the B20s right? (which has a taller deck hieght)

 

The B18A/B and B20's have a longer stroke. Good for tq but not good if you plan on reving it above 6500rpm

 

I'm surprised 1.8mm effects it that much. 6500 is low. I think I've read ideal r/s ratio is 1.75:1. That right?

 

Around there, I think the D16's are 1.62:1 and the D15's are like 1.67:1