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b16a2 fully built potential

  #1  
Old 04-03-2011, 04:09 PM
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Question b16a2 fully built potential

Hey everybody. Ive got a B16a2 in my 2000SiR and am planning a rebuild for the winter comin up.

I am havin trouble finding good forums with useful information but need to know what is the potential limits of power for a b16a2 FULLY BUILT. What parts work best and any other projects that are finished would be awesome to check out. I wanna do EVERYTHING if I can but dont know what to expect. 200whp is what i hope for but am not sure if thats reliably realistic with just a N/A motor. And if the 9000RPM range could be seen that would be awesome PLease help, this is all i think about at night really. I love this car and dont mind spending some hard earned money on it!!
 
  #2  
Old 04-03-2011, 06:16 PM
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I wouldn't think that 200whp is gonna be that hard to get n/a, especially if you're as willing to spend money as you seem to be. I'm looking forward to your build.

have you ever thought of swapping out the bottom end for a gsr or type-r bottom? You could simply bore out your cylinders and bump it up to about 1.9.... it'd give you alot more torque and would make the most out of your n/a setup.
 
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Old 04-04-2011, 06:32 AM
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Gsr bottom end, high compression, like 12:1 and some big cams in the b16 head and it's pretty easy. That is a poor mans type r. Lsv would also be an easy way to hit 200+, but you have to be careful and needs to be well built for the ls bottom end to handle high rpms, but the torque will make a great benefit towards 200. Or a b20 bottom end would be even better. You could even just drop an ls crank in the gsr. Basically what will be holding you back from 200 will be the bottom end, it's going to need go be bored out or swapped out for a 1.8 or 2.0.
 
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Old 04-04-2011, 09:31 AM
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Search around here, or H-T. The information is out there, you just have to find it.

LS/VTEC as Scott was saying is where your head should be at currently.
 
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Old 04-04-2011, 05:18 PM
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see the thing is i dont mind spending the money and sending it to the machine shop to get bullet proofed but if i am goin to switch the bottom end to an LS what should i get done. I was thinkin stud the main ARP head studs rod bolts and completely lightened internals(forged rods, pistons). The head is where the magic happens so obviously a pretty penny will be put in there porting polishing and beefing up all the valves springs and retainers to get this baby screaming to 9000+RPM!!! I dont want to cut any corners and when this pretty birdy is ready to fly u can all check it out for sure. Im gonna get some videos soon and def more pics. I love contributing to the forum and defintiely wanna have one of the nicest around. But for now i need to work on the plan so any help is helpful.
 
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Old 04-04-2011, 10:21 PM
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if you're getting an ls bottom end, you'll have to replace several parts on it to get it to work "reliably" with a vtec head. there is a write-up on HT about it, and its very detailed. if you DO NOT follow the instructions YOU WILL end up blowing up your "ls/vtec"
 
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Old 04-05-2011, 11:08 AM
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What you'll need to change over on the ls bottom to make 200:
Bore the bottom over
High comp pistons
Eagle rods
Arp rod and main bolts
Crank balanced and micropolished
I'd recommend a girdle, whethe aftermarket or a gsr
And you can either run the ls oil pump and water pump and use an ls timing belt. Or get a 98+ gsr oil and water pump, same thing as the type r, and use a gsr t belt. The gsr setup is better but the ls will suffice.
And of course an lsv kit, golden eagle is great.
Main and rod bearings, I like acl
 
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Old 04-05-2011, 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott53092 View Post
What you'll need to change over on the ls bottom to make 200:
Bore the bottom over
High comp pistons
Eagle rods
Arp rod and main bolts
Crank balanced and micropolished
I'd recommend a girdle, whethe aftermarket or a gsr
And you can either run the ls oil pump and water pump and use an ls timing belt. Or get a 98+ gsr oil and water pump, same thing as the type r, and use a gsr t belt. The gsr setup is better but the ls will suffice.
And of course an lsv kit, golden eagle is great.
Main and rod bearings, I like acl
from my understanding if you use the ls oil and water pumps with any vtec head, you'll run into reliability issues.... I'd go with the GSR setup if I were you. Besides, you'll want to change those parts anyways, right?
 
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Old 04-06-2011, 07:11 AM
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The ls setup will work, but the water pump and oil pump spin faster than they normaly should persay... they'll still work fine, but it can move "less" coolant and oil because it is spinning so fast it'll airate it, but like I said, it WILL work no problem. But the gsr setup is your best bet, 98+ gsr is what you want to get. Like I said, the 98+ gsr pumps are the exact same as the itr, aka it is the best. If you need help with lsv or anything let me know, I know a lot about them.
 

Last edited by Scott53092; 04-06-2011 at 08:17 AM.
  #10  
Old 04-06-2011, 06:42 PM
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well thats a lot of help so far but what is an lsv?? this is my first one im building but i might need it sooner than i thought!!!

300km burned a litre of 10w30 with lucas. Im not sure if the oil rings are just sticking cuz the car sat for almost a year but i gotta get something going soon. Even justa stock bottom b16 for now might do me over or a new used engine. im gonna try an engine flush in the actualk cylinder and let it soak over night and ill let u guys know how that works if it does. My boss is kinda frowning on the idea of building a motor in the shop and i dont have a garge i can use so the motor drop in might be my best bet.

but besides that whats an lsv??

Lots to learn man thats for sure
 
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