What do you guys think is a better set up to run for a dd and weekend autox car? Reliability? I mean is 160hp b16 a good amount of hp for a little hatchback? I have a stock Z6 right now. The Z6 is on the way out and I will not build it or turbo it.

Stock B20vtec (B16 head)with I/H/E and GSR transmission

B16A1 with p&p hydro B16 transmission and Skunk2 stage 2 cams I/H/E

 

imo i say b20 more tq. but redline is 6800 rpm i believe vs. a b16 with 106 tq. or socmon tq wins races, but anyways good luck

 

Definitely the b20 torque ftw!

 

I've heard that b20vtec/LSvtec is an unreliable setup. No one has told me why... but if someone would shed some light on that I'm sure it would help me and TurboD out, since I was wondering the same thing...

 

Well, the B16 likes to be kept in high rpms and it can handle it all day long, although its a torqueless engine that feels like a D16 under 4500 rpm. 160 whp is not bad for a hatchback but youll want more within a few weeks and there isnt alot the b16 can give you N/A. Iv seen a few 200whp B16 N/A engines, but again they are running 115-120wtq. Now you chould turbo it, but thats up to you and for a autox car a turbo isnt a great idea.

Then we have the B20vtec. The B20 redlines at 6300rpm and may havesome issues with overheating if its revving at autox all day. But, I race with a B20 vtec sometimes and hes been running his B20 up to 8k rpm daily for 3 years now and not one problem. Keep in mind he has aftermarket rods/pistons/bearings and a custom made block girdle. He also bought an oil cooler and aftermarket radiator a few months after the swap to keep the engine cool (his overheating problem may have been unique). The B20 has no oil squirters so you should know that she may get a little hot out at autox. This engine has nice tq numbers and can really be a great vtec n/a engine. I just want to say imo I have never heard or seen or read about a B20vtec throwing a rod or spinning a bearing because of high revving - I think its a stupid myth. I have seen a cylinder wall in peices because of high compression (12:1 after a year or so).

I dont think the LS/B20 vtec is unreliable anymore. Now they make full on pre-made kits to put together an LS/b20 vtec. This whole "unreliable" thing is a myth, but it also depends on who or how your ls/b20 is built. I know a handfull of guys with LS/vtecs and most are boosted with no problems,some built, some not. I know 2 guys with b20vtecs, one is running with low boost on a built engine and has only ever blown a headgasket. This guy has been running his turbo b20vtec since before I ever got into civics. The other is running N/A for over 3 years with no problems, they both rev the hell out of the cars. Just dont read Honda-Tech.

 

Awesome, thanks a lot man! On the subject of low redlines, does the LS motor also redline at 6300rpm? Which would you say is better in your opinion... LSvtec or B20vtec?

 

The B18B redlines at 6800 rpm I think. Which is better? well that all depends on what you want. Ls/vtec will have less torque then a B20vtec. If your going N/A then the B20 with its 2.0 litres of displacement and a VTEC head can make very nice numbers and you can throw some forged internals in there and rev it all day long. Some people say the B20 cant rev cause of its stroke, but I have yet to see or even read of this being a problem. For N/A its deffo B20 over the B18

 

i would like the torque of a b20