Engine & Internal Chat about beefing up your engine's insides here.

Break-in Procedures

  #1  
Old 12-09-2005, 09:27 AM
vugoodoll's Avatar
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Default Break-in Procedures

I just got my B16A fully rebuild, how do i break-in the engine? I brought the car like that with a new fully built engine and i couldn't contact the guy who built it. Do i need any special oil or gas?? Please help me out. Thanks Everyone
 
  #2  
Old 12-09-2005, 09:40 AM
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Default RE: Break-in Procedures

I would immediatly start using Royal Purple Synthetic Oil. I believe it was Modified Magazine that did an excellent report on it too.

Also, I would let about 1k miles roll on the engine before you put the hurt on it.
 
  #3  
Old 12-09-2005, 09:48 AM
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Default RE: Break-in Procedures

i would just say dont beet on it...take it easy for the first little wile and gradually work your way up
 
  #4  
Old 12-09-2005, 10:12 AM
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Default RE: Break-in Procedures

It most likely depends on what you had done with what parts but for a general break in procedure I would......

Change the oil to standard dinosour oil, not synthetic or a synthetic blend.

Then keep revs well below 4k for about 400-500 miles.

then every hundred or so miles go up about a thousand rpms.

once you hit 1000 miles, change the oil to synthetic and only use synthetic from there on out.
 
  #5  
Old 12-09-2005, 10:55 AM
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Default RE: Break-in Procedures

ORIGINAL: remington870_20ga
I would immediatly start using Royal Purple Synthetic Oil.
You're not supposed to use synthetic oil while breaking in an engine for the first few thousand miles, so use some quality regular oil at first. Then you switch to synthetic after.

There was also a write-up from a mechanic who claimed it was better to "give it" the first few hundred miles in order to properly seat the rings, then take it easy for the next few thousand miles.
 
  #6  
Old 12-09-2005, 11:15 AM
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Default RE: Break-in Procedures

ORIGINAL: LEVIII

It most likely depends on what you had done with what parts but for a general break in procedure I would......

Change the oil to standard dinosour oil, not synthetic or a synthetic blend.

Then keep revs well below 4k for about 400-500 miles.

then every hundred or so miles go up about a thousand rpms.

once you hit 1000 miles, change the oil to synthetic and only use synthetic from there on out.
This is what i heard. You keep on going up in rpms ever 100 miles to help the rings sit properly.
 
  #7  
Old 12-09-2005, 11:23 AM
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Default RE: Break-in Procedures

ORIGINAL: ngoti8tor
There was also a write-up from a mechanic who claimed it was better to "give it" the first few hundred miles in order to properly seat the rings, then take it easy for the next few thousand miles.
ORIGINAL: Talon585
You keep on going up in rpms ever 100 miles to help the rings sit properly.
That's how I broke my engine in.
 
  #8  
Old 12-09-2005, 11:36 AM
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Default RE: Break-in Procedures

The most important thing is to keep the revs moving around constantly (so the new rings don't set steps in the cylinders) for the first 2500 miles or so and will seat properly. This is especially important on the freeway. DO NOT just cruise at 65 mph in 5th gear; slow down, downshift a couple gears, accelerate lightly, then get on it a bit, etc. Keep your engine guessing. While it is a good idea to keep it under 5000 rpm for the first 200-300 miles, stepping it up gradually from the beginnning is not necessary.
 
  #9  
Old 12-09-2005, 06:51 PM
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Default RE: Break-in Procedures

the first few minutes of it running, you need to give it some pressure. you need to drive it hard. but dont just go out and beat on it. get it to a straight piece of road before you ever start it. then once its running, give it 10 seconds or so to get oil spread through it, then take off in first easily, and get to 2nd pretty quickly, where you floor it till about 5-6k, then let off the gas and let the engine drag the rpms back down. then do it a few times in 2nd or 3rd. when you floor it, you are making the cylinder pressure go up, which in turn pushes the rings harder into the cylinder walls, which usually have a very very light crosshatch pattern cut in them that will basically grind the rings smooth with the cylinder walls, giving you better compression for the life of the engine. once that crosshatch is gone (within 20 minutes) you have lost the chance for that little bit of compression. and once you get it moving to about 6k, and you let off the gas and let it coast down in gear, it pulls oil into the top end of the motor, soaking everything down again. then, after 10-15 minutes of these pulls, take it easy on the car for about 1000 miles to let all the bearings and seals break in. there are a lo tof schools of thought on this subject, but this one seems to have the most merit in my book, and this is how my race car will be broken in.
 
  #10  
Old 12-09-2005, 07:33 PM
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Default RE: Break-in Procedures

Hate to break up the break in talk, but this isn't in the right section is it?
 

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