Engine & Internal Chat about beefing up your engine's insides here.

Don't laugh at my basic questions

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Old Sep 1, 2006 | 07:24 AM
  #31  
zarembad's Avatar
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ORIGINAL: Kedawei

ORIGINAL: Nail I3unny

why not change out the internals? its easier than an engine swap.
You can make sure it's built right too.

And idk about that 10:1 business. Power seems to be the best indicater of stress.

Why not change out the internals??? Where is the best place to find internal compnents to replace the stock ones?? I don't see much out there for the d15b7!! Plus I have nothing to pull the engine out anymore(kids). If I paid someone to do it, I am sure I would be better off doing a swap. Am I wrong?
 
Old Sep 1, 2006 | 07:51 AM
  #32  
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wow, out of this whole thread i just almost fell asleep reading, anywho, no one recommended to do a tranny swap. the tranny for a SI trans, because it has closer gearing and vtec engines love to have close gearing, because it takes advantage of their high rpm capabilities. this will give no more more horsepower, but will take adavantage of the power you do have. i also recommend the d16z6 head swap, (it flows a little better and is a factory obd1 head from 92-95)
 
Old Sep 1, 2006 | 11:01 AM
  #33  
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Default RE: Don't laugh at my basic questions


ORIGINAL: zarembad


ORIGINAL: Kedawei

ORIGINAL: Nail I3unny

why not change out the internals? its easier than an engine swap.
You can make sure it's built right too.

And idk about that 10:1 business. Power seems to be the best indicater of stress.

Why not change out the internals??? Where is the best place to find internal compnents to replace the stock ones?? I don't see much out there for the d15b7!! Plus I have nothing to pull the engine out anymore(kids). If I paid someone to do it, I am sure I would be better off doing a swap. Am I wrong?
yeah actually...you are. like i said, p28 ecu, y8 head, tranny, and IM, a1 pistons, and aftermarket rods will put you at a low 12:1 compression ratio. add basic bolt ons (IHE, cam/valvetrain) and you're looking at some serious power.
 
Old Sep 1, 2006 | 01:44 PM
  #34  
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Default RE: Don't laugh at my basic questions


ORIGINAL: Nail I3unny


ORIGINAL: zarembad


ORIGINAL: Kedawei

ORIGINAL: Nail I3unny

why not change out the internals? its easier than an engine swap.
You can make sure it's built right too.

And idk about that 10:1 business. Power seems to be the best indicater of stress.

Why not change out the internals??? Where is the best place to find internal compnents to replace the stock ones?? I don't see much out there for the d15b7!! Plus I have nothing to pull the engine out anymore(kids). If I paid someone to do it, I am sure I would be better off doing a swap. Am I wrong?
yeah actually...you are. like i said, p28 ecu, y8 head, tranny, and IM, a1 pistons, and aftermarket rods will put you at a low 12:1 compression ratio. add basic bolt ons (IHE, cam/valvetrain) and you're looking at some serious power.
where do I find parts??? How much will it cost to have someone rebuild the engine??
 
Old Sep 1, 2006 | 02:31 PM
  #35  
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oh well i assumed youd be doing the work yourself...

with labor it will probably just be better off getting an engine swap. most shops charge 500-1000 bucks to drop in say a GSR...but all that work together will probably run you enough to make up the difference between all that vs. engine swap.

you could probably get all of that for around 1.5k-2grand...it will give you more power than a stock B16 probaly and hold even in power with a GSR...but will be slightly lighter. it will also probably cost more to get it all installed than a straight up engine swap.

bottom line: if you're doing your own work then stick with the D...but if you're getting it installed then get an engine swap.
 
Old Sep 1, 2006 | 03:07 PM
  #36  
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There's no way to have work done for you for cheap (unless you know people), no matter what path you want to take with your car. If you break the block down yourself and take it to a shop for a rebuild, that would probably be your cheapest route. Otherwise be prepared to spend a **** load.
 
Old Sep 1, 2006 | 04:56 PM
  #37  
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Thats what I was trying to say. I have no equipment to pull the motor myself anymore. How are you supposed to replace pistons and internals without pulling the motor??
 
Old Sep 1, 2006 | 05:34 PM
  #38  
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its not that hard. you can just drop it out the bottom. as Kappa used to say, its actually suprisingly easy to pull internals out of an engine thats in the car...at least a lot easier than most people thing.
 
Old Sep 1, 2006 | 06:52 PM
  #39  
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ORIGINAL: Nail I3unny

yeah actually...you are. like i said, p28 ecu, y8 head, tranny, and IM, a1 pistons, and aftermarket rods will put you at a low 12:1 compression ratio. add basic bolt ons (IHE, cam/valvetrain) and you're looking at some serious power.
I still say Z6 head > Y8 head. I've been doing some reading on it since forty and I had a bit of exchange about the heads in another thread. The Z6 head has straight ports while the Y8s are curved, to give the fuel/air a swirl effect. While this gives the Y8 head better fuel atomization and a bump in low to midrange power, the Z6s top end is much better as the mixture can flow quicker (straight shot to the valves, as someone put it on sohchonda).
 
Old Sep 1, 2006 | 10:13 PM
  #40  
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Default RE: Don't laugh at my basic questions

it's easy to pull pistons out of a engine that is in the car. just take your oil pan and head of the car, then take the rest of your necesary bolts out to slide the pistons out.of course it is easier to pull the engine out. i recomend a swap though.maybe a poor mans type r
 



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