goin n/a
#2
RE: goin n/a
Id go with the simple intake/header/exhaust combo.
Intake-AEM cold air is probably the preferred choice
Headers-DC sports make a good set
Exhaust-Ive got Skunk2 and am really happy with it, but Magnaflow is a quality, and relatively inexpensive company. Greddy Evo2 is very good, but carries a hefty price tag.
How much are you willing to spend total?
Intake-AEM cold air is probably the preferred choice
Headers-DC sports make a good set
Exhaust-Ive got Skunk2 and am really happy with it, but Magnaflow is a quality, and relatively inexpensive company. Greddy Evo2 is very good, but carries a hefty price tag.
How much are you willing to spend total?
#3
RE: goin n/a
do the CAI/ Header thing first, then think about ITB's and a hondata system lots of porting and polishing, that K20 has 11:1 compression so it already has what us old skool domestic converts like to call Race Internals your pistons rods and crank will be top quality (duh its a Honda) where your gonna find power at is in very small minute amounts that add up take for instance Knife edgeing your crank will free up some wieght and about 5 horsepower depending on RPM, Port matching the intake to the head will gain you a couple between 10-20, hot cams'll gain you (nothing over a 280 grind for street use) 10-35 depending on grind, go with a hytech header there the best but i dont know if they make them for your application. (make sure it has staged anti-reversion chambers) and i'm not sure if its a vacuum advanced distributor but if so you can change the advance curve spring to the lightest you can find and really change your engines responsivness dramatically but have fun and dont go too wild or you'll bhe buying a new k20!
#4
RE: goin n/a
ORIGINAL: Jason
do the CAI/ Header thing first, then think about ITB's and a hondata system lots of porting and polishing, that K20 has 11:1 compression so it already has what us old skool domestic converts like to call Race Internals your pistons rods and crank will be top quality (duh its a Honda) where your gonna find power at is in very small minute amounts that add up take for instance Knife edgeing your crank will free up some wieght and about 5 horsepower depending on RPM, Port matching the intake to the head will gain you a couple between 10-20, hot cams'll gain you (nothing over a 280 grind for street use) 10-35 depending on grind, go with a hytech header there the best but i dont know if they make them for your application. (make sure it has staged anti-reversion chambers) and i'm not sure if its a vacuum advanced distributor but if so you can change the advance curve spring to the lightest you can find and really change your engines responsivness dramatically but have fun and dont go too wild or you'll bhe buying a new k20!
do the CAI/ Header thing first, then think about ITB's and a hondata system lots of porting and polishing, that K20 has 11:1 compression so it already has what us old skool domestic converts like to call Race Internals your pistons rods and crank will be top quality (duh its a Honda) where your gonna find power at is in very small minute amounts that add up take for instance Knife edgeing your crank will free up some wieght and about 5 horsepower depending on RPM, Port matching the intake to the head will gain you a couple between 10-20, hot cams'll gain you (nothing over a 280 grind for street use) 10-35 depending on grind, go with a hytech header there the best but i dont know if they make them for your application. (make sure it has staged anti-reversion chambers) and i'm not sure if its a vacuum advanced distributor but if so you can change the advance curve spring to the lightest you can find and really change your engines responsivness dramatically but have fun and dont go too wild or you'll bhe buying a new k20!
After you get the intake, header, cat, cat-back, throttle body and intake manifold if you're still not satisfied you should look into bigger cams. Toda spec b's are a good choice. Then you can get the JDM Inegra type-r pistons to raise the compression to 11:1. Then the Hondata S200 or similar unit would be a good thing to have. Then port, polish, ballance, blueprint and rev that thing HARD.
#5
RE: goin n/a
well..i have to say i agree with adam (amg) on this one. sacs has a huge written out plan, as he was considering this route for a while. he'll probably be well inclined to post it...he has before. and if you want ITBs in the end...it would be wise to not get a throttle body, intake manifold, and if you must have an intake then get a cheapo one from ebay.
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Pete
Header, Intake, & Exhaust
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03-25-2006 12:57 PM