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h22 or GSR?

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  #11  
Old 07-12-2006, 06:52 PM
Marty's Avatar
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Default RE: h22 or GSR?

the GSR is good for around 300whp stock correctly tuned/boosted. Same with the H22's, I to this day do not understand why people see fit to stick up for the B series and down the H series. To me it is retarded.
 
  #12  
Old 07-12-2006, 08:22 PM
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Default RE: h22 or GSR?

yea i always wanted gsr. but my friend has a civ like mine and he has gsr swap. and my other friend with an automatic prelude beats it... just think if the h22 was in the civ. its lighter then the prelude. it just seems better to go h22 with a few mods to reach 250-300hp then gsr and have to spend **** load on parts to make it fast. 200hp stock vs. 160 stock. plus more torque. especially if u bore it.
 
  #13  
Old 07-12-2006, 08:35 PM
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Default RE: h22 or GSR?

30hp is pretty much a big difference. what.. like 200 hp civic runs like 13-14's? my mexican friend has a hatch with k20 . dynoed 200 hp just engine. ran 13.8
 
  #14  
Old 07-13-2006, 08:21 AM
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Default RE: h22 or GSR?

ORIGINAL: omgxitsxaxhatch

yea i always wanted gsr. but my friend has a civ like mine and he has gsr swap. and my other friend with an automatic prelude beats it... just think if the h22 was in the civ. its lighter then the prelude. it just seems better to go h22 with a few mods to reach 250-300hp then gsr and have to spend **** load on parts to make it fast. 200hp stock vs. 160 stock. plus more torque. especially if u bore it.
then your friend with the gsr swap needs to find out whats wrong, because I walk away from preludes with mine. with a stock gsr motor in a civic, a little weight reduction, and a set of *decent* tires, i was solidly into the 14s. an h22 prelude isnt going to beat that without a bunch of bolt-ons.


anyway, if its just for drag racing, go with the h22. but replace the timing belt, water pump and clutch and flywheel before it gets swapped in, because once its in, youre going to hate working on it.
 
  #15  
Old 07-14-2006, 02:00 AM
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Default RE: h22 or GSR?

prelude had cam and gears. then i-h-e. thats all. and a break upgrade. it made him able to hold the breaks down and pres gass at 3,500 rps then launch.
 
  #16  
Old 07-14-2006, 07:57 AM
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Default RE: h22 or GSR?

a decent set of cams could be an easy 20-25whp upgrade, and IHE another 10-25, depending on quality, so comparing the two isnt so even anymore. on my gsr motor, an intake, manifold, cat, cat-back, and a fuel pump is good for about half a second off of my 1/4 mile times, so if I were to add cams and gears, that would be even more. then it would be a more fair comparison. saying thats all isnt quite fair, since thats more than most people will ever do to their motor.
 
  #17  
Old 07-14-2006, 12:35 PM
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Default RE: h22 or GSR?

im realy considering a h22 in my eg hatch and throwing my turbo kit on it... would be so fast
 
  #18  
Old 07-14-2006, 03:26 PM
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Default RE: h22 or GSR?

i'm backing sacs. the GSR is considered one of the most moddable, if not the most moddable, four banger in the history of automotive technology. theres a slightly bigger aftermarket for them...and (depending on where you live) theyre easier to come by.
 
  #19  
Old 07-15-2006, 08:55 AM
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Default RE: h22 or GSR?

I'm gonna say the GSR b/c its easier to install and the aftermarket is much better like the other guys said. I have a friend that wants to run a H22 in a hatch and hes researching parts and he is finding that they aren't as readily available as the GSR. Plus it weighs less.
 
  #20  
Old 07-15-2006, 11:43 AM
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Default RE: h22 or GSR?

There are as many parts for the H's as the B's. You can get cams, valves, pistons, ring, rods, sleeves, intake manifolds, turbo manifolds, etc, etc for the H22 just like the B18's. This is not a matter of engine developement, this is not a matter of engine abilities, this is a matter of a myth started by god knows who and re-verberated across the internet by people that have no idea. The H22 weights less than a B series with a turbo setup on it, then if you add a turbo setup to the H just relocate the battery to the rear and get a fiberglass or cf hood. Suspension is something that needs to be done no matter what swap you are doing, unless you are keeping a single cam you are adding weight that needs to be adjusted for.

A H22 in a eg hatch with a good driver and bolt ons is a high 13 second car full interior and can still pull respectfull numbers on the skidpad. This is a matter of myth which has been way over hyped. The only thing you have to do different with a H swap is cut 2 holes the size of a ping pong ball each in the firewall up behind the center consol and use a 90+ accord or prelude shifter. A set of mounts and a set of axels and when you can get a complete H22 swap for $1500 plus shipping you still save money on the B18C1 swap and plus you have better parts like solid mounts, tougher axels, not to mention more tq than the B18 could ever muster.
 


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